191Seanymphstriper
Petty Officer 1st Class
- Joined
- Aug 23, 2010
- Messages
- 265
Hello
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The scantling sizes will not be strong enought to cope with the amount of flexing as the larger surface areas are subjected to the pressure of wind and waves...
Bigger boat = more flex, more weight and higher strenght required for all associated components
Ayuh,... Sounds like the Loonnngggg way to the scrap heap to Me...
Ok can you share some phissis on the subject? Like caculated reasons etc?
Thanks for the input!1. The scantlings of a 26ft boat do not translate into a 36ft boat.
2. Review the definition of scantlings and how it applies to structural engineering.
3. Welding aluminum in a marine application should only be attempted by a professional with the ability to restore the original properties to the substrate metal after welding.
Welding two sheets of aluminum together is easy. Re-tempering the metal to restore its properties after welding is not easy and given the potential for injury/death involving boats I'd say this is not a project for your average DIY'er. The plate thickness is too thin for the increased loading. The realistic costs of making this project actually work exceed what it would cost to build a proper 36ft aluminum boat from scratch.
In short, you probably can't afford to pursue this crazy idea to the end and you will most likely end up with beer can material that cost you far more than scrap value.
It dosnt sound like a good idea to me either, Youve not mentioned the stringers at all what is the plan for that?
Several things come to mind right away with this idea.
- The finished boat will be an awfully narrow 36 footer.
- The materials used to build the boat as a 26' boat may not be thick enough or strong enough to endure the added stresses which will be applied by making it 36'.
- Those boats don't have any structural stringers, just deck supports for the most part. You will be relying on the strength of the gunwales and deck to prevent lateral flex.
Do I think its possible to make such a boat float and function, sure, but I have my doubts to how it would look or how durable or safe it would be.
Joining the two halves would require far more than just lining up the rivet holes, plus there will be a seal to deal with. The exposed seam will need to be riveted much like the original transom panel was riveted around the edge. The rivets will need to connect both hulls, and each rib at a perfect fit.
You will have to take many measurements to see if the two hulls will even 'nest' together and if they will lay properly to even look right let alone fit closely enough to be able to seal properly.
All in all it's obviously far more trouble than its worth to do. I'd be more likely to consider such a modification on a glass boat but again, your not adding any width, which with a 10' gain in length, may be needed to maintain stability.
Ayuh,... Just Look at those hulls,...
I've got a 221 Islander,...
It swells at the bow, then tapers, All the way to the transom...
Where are you going to find 10' of it that'll marry up to the same width, anywhere in it's entire length...
It's basically coke bottle shaped...
To be blunt, there are no free rides when it comes to engineering the scantlings for a vessel, especially a blue water yacht. Do the calculations, understand the products, physical limitations of the materials, comprehend the dynamics, concepts, principles, etc., etc., etc. To suggest anything less is asking for a free ride and you'll find most of use will find this insulting. Considering the "profession" is hundreds of years old, I think it's reached maturity, though clearly you haven't, if you expect a free pass on understanding necessary concepts and principles aspects, of the tasks you must perform.