Started to get off trailer, now won't start

[HeavyDinKC]

Hoping for some beginning guidance here please.

Boat started to get off the trailer today...idled and sounded good over to the courtesy doc. Shut it off to go park truck. After getting back, boat will not start. Last time we had it out was about 2 weeks ago. Ran great. Been running great all season.

Thought it might be the safety switch, but I've made that mistake before, and when I've done that, it starts for like 2-3 seconds and shuts off.

Short video of attempting to start in the driveway with muffs on.

Boat/Engine details:
2011 Tahoe Q5
4.3L Mercruiser TKS SN: 1A625559

Please let me know what additional info you need from me. I have yet to do any troubleshooting. I'm just hoping you can help point me in the right direction, and if it's an easy to moderate difficulty fix, I will attempt. Otherwise it's off to the shop.

 

[alldodge]

Need to find out what your not getting, fuel or spark.

Move the throttle forward and see if you see gas squirt down the throat of the carb
Check for 12V on the positive side of the coil when the key is turned ON

 

[scottn83]

All dodge gave great advice I had the same problem with mine. The only thing I would add is when you check for fuel in your carb just because there is fuel there doesn't mean there is enough. I was getting fuel in the carb but not enough. Change the fuel filter and bam starts ever time

 

[CaptainMak]

First of all, when you turn the key to the IGNITION ON position, let the beeps finish chirping, and the fuel pump cycle though. You're starting it way too early and the pump is probably not having enough time to build up the pressure before starting.

Secondly, that looks like Throttle Body Injection ? If it is, spray some starting fluid into the flame arrestor and try cranking. If it starts up and dies in a few seconds, your problem is fuel. If not, your problem is spark. Let us know.

 

[Swimforshore]

I agree with mak a little starting fluid or even brake cleaner and in a pinch a spray bottle of gas sprayed down the throttle body while cranking will help isolate it to fuel or ignition. If it's ignition look for arc marks especially around ignition cool and inside of distributor cap

 

[glennj3]

What ever you do, do not spray any gasoline anyplace! The gas fumes are extremely explosive! Starting fluid, OK.
If I had tools at this point I would probably pull the fuel line at the carb and see if it has pressure, and check the fuel filter.

 

[HeavyDinKC]

Thanks guys...I'll try to get out later this afternoon and use your advice and report back.

 

[bruceb58]

Secondly, that looks like Throttle Body Injection ? If it is, spray some starting fluid into the flame arrestor and try cranking. If it starts up and dies in a few seconds, your problem is fuel. If not, your problem is spark. Let us know.

He listed in his original thread that he has TKS so he has a carb.

Do not use starting fluid. Good way to damage your engine.

 

[HeavyDinKC]

Ok, I know it's been almost 3 weeks since I started this thread, and you can beat me with a wet noodle after I ask for your assistance.

Since my original post, about a week after my last post, went out, and it started right up! It ran multiple times with no issues since then, I believe we've been out 4 times.

But then the same thing occurred this weekend as my original post. Got out Sunday morning to clean and I've had the habit the last three weeks of starting it in the drive way and warming it up while the kids are getting ready. 35 minute drive to the lake. Then it wouldn't start. So I busted out your guys recommendations. Below are what I've able to perform. Hopefully you can help point me where to go next.

Need to find out what your not getting, fuel or spark.

Move the throttle forward and see if you see gas squirt down the throat of the carb Check for 12V on the positive side of the coil when the key is turned ON

I'm getting 12V on the coil. Had a hard time seeing if gas was in the carb as I didn't have a helper today.

I was getting fuel in the carb but not enough. Change the fuel filter and bam starts ever time

I changed my fuel filter in July 2016. Took it off today. All gas that I poured out was nice and clean.

First of all, when you turn the key to the IGNITION ON position, let the beeps finish chirping, and the fuel pump cycle though. You're starting it way too early and the pump is probably not having enough time to build up the pressure before starting.

Finish chirping, ok. I found what I think is a bit of a pattern here. Let me know if I'm just way off base. When I let the beep run, it just keeps beeping. The longest I let it go before I tried again was 3 minutes. BUT, what I think I found, may be the fuel pump. When the beep came on, and I lean into the engine compartment, I could NOT hear the fuel pump. But when there was no beep, the fuel pump was running. And then it would run for 10 or 20 or so, and then then the beep would start up again.

 

[alldodge]

. And then it would run for 10 or 20 or so, and then then the beep would start up again.

DOn't understand this statement, the motor ran for 10 to 20 seconds and then died or something else?

 

[HeavyDinKC]

DOn't understand this statement, the motor ran for 10 to 20 seconds and then died or something else?

Sorry, the fuel pump would run for 10 or 20 seconds.

The motor never ran. Just crank.

 

[alldodge]

When the motor starts cranking the fuel pump should start running. Might not hear the pump over the beeper. If cranked long enough (few seconds) oil pressure starts to build up and turns the beeper of, this allows to secondary full pump circuit to start.

So now I think you have an electrical issue. The carb should have some fuel in it, and that's all it needs to fire. To check for fuel in the carb, take a paper towel an push in down inside the throat of the carb. Now pump the throttle and pull the towel out. There should be gas on the towel

 

[HeavyDinKC]

AllDodge: Had enough time after lunch to try the paper towel. Yes, there is fuel in the carb.

On a different note, I believe the battery is running low with all this cranking and no running. I'll pull it out tonight and have it tested, just in case.

Any other thoughts on where I should be looking?

 

[alldodge]

Have fuel, and probably no spark. Don't have your manual but you should have the TB-V ignition I'm thinking. The first thing is disconnect your tachometer (the gray wire). Tachs can short out and if that happens then no spark.

If it won't start, run through this troubleshooting guide to determine what isn't working

 

[HeavyDinKC]

Thank you... Battery was bad, replaced, but still no start. Pulled the tach wire, no luck. Rain starting here, I'll have to pick it up later or tomorrow.

 

[HeavyDinKC]

Ok, here's what I've done so far. Have to run up to get a spark gap tester before moving on. Have a few questions to be sure I'm interpreting everything correctly.

1. Bottom of distributor, 3 wires coming off, White/Red and White/Green to what I believe is the ignition module.
https://www.amazon.com/clouddrive/sha...hare_link_copy

2. Ignition module. The White/Red and White/Green go into the top plug harness
https://www.amazon.com/clouddrive/sha...hare_link_copy

3. Plug harness into the ignition module. To do the last step, it seems that I will have to pull the White/Green wire from the harness and tap it against a ground. Is there another way around this?
https://www.amazon.com/clouddrive/sha...hare_link_copy

My results so far:
No change when remove the tach.
Getting 12v on the positive side of the coil.
Getting 12v on from the corresponding pin to the White/Red wire from the ignition module.

Apparently I'm doing something wrong when trying to upload pics...I keep getting an error, hence the links above.

 

[alldodge]

OK, I see your issue. This is why when the sensor is replaced they provide terminals with bullet connectors, yours currently does not have them.

When a new sensor is replaced, the wires coming from the sensor in the distributer are removed. The ring terminals are put together with the short screws and nuts, taped up, and then the bullet connectors are used.

So here is what you do. Remove the coil wire from distributer and place in spark gap tester, or have it held close to a good ground. Next remove distributer cap and lay to the side with all wires attached. Remove the Wht/Red wire from sensor and test per the trouble shooting guide.

If 12V are found, then reconnect the wire. Now remove the Wht/Grn wire from sensor and do not let it touch anything. Take a jumper wire and attach to were the Wht/Grn wire was removed, then follow troubleshooting guide.

 

[HeavyDinKC]

Ok, have the distributor cap off, do I remove the two screws to remove the sensor? Or do I cut the wies and splice them later?

https://s.amsu.ng/9iLilK2omMqN

 

[alldodge]

Ok, have the distributor cap off, do I remove the two screws to remove the sensor? Or do I cut the wies and splice them later?[/QUOTE]

No, No , No , No

Will post more in a minute

 

[HeavyDinKC]

Ok, wow, I'm very slow to pick up and a bone head.

The bullet connectors were hidden below a coolent pipe and I thought it was solid wires... Moving on as previously instructed. Sorry