Starting a 4.3 rebuild/auto swap - have a few questions

Rswilliams13

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May 22, 2012
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Hey guys, I just bought my first boat a few days ago, and it's a bit of a project. It's a 1990 bayliner 2052 capri cuddy that is in excellent shape, low hours, always garaged, no rot in floors/stringers, a newly rebuilt alpha and lots of extras. The only catch is the previous owner forgot to winterize it and cracked both the block and heads. He took it to a mechanic, who pulled the engine and all accesories. I have all of the accessories, except the flywheel, but do not have the cracked longblock.

I have been reading through the forums and most of the posts relating to the auto block swaps. The swap seems very doable. The boat will only ever see fresh water, and my local pick n pull says they have 10 4.3's to choose from for under $200. I have built up at least a half dozen engines in the last few years, and the plan is to do a full rebuild on whatever block I pick up later this week. I am also planning on adding the edelbrock performer intake and 1409 carb. However, I have a few questions on what I should be looking for in a donor motor.

1) What year block should I look for? Lots of threads talk about the vortec heads being a great upgrade, when/what did they come in? I know the later blocks don't have the fuel pump area machined so I'll have to swap in an electric pump which is fine. Also seeing as I do not have the original longblock, I will be using the cam from the donor block, sounds like I need one from a truck/van, and preferably a 4x4? any tips on the best donor vehicle for my situation would be great!

2) is there any compatability issues with the externally balanced and non externally balaced 4.3's? Pulleys ect. pre or post 92'? Any other compatability issues I should be aware of?

3) I read in a post somewhere that I can use the standard flywheel from a manual trans donor vehicle, is this true? I have the merc bellhousing/starter/triangle mount. Just want to see if I can use the standard flywheel or if i need to source a merc one.

4) Motor mounts. I have not seen the mounts on a 4.3, and need to figure out what I need. The boat still has the fluid dampner mounts with the studs, will those mount to the standard auto mounts, or am I missing a few merc specific parts?

Thanks in advance for the help guys, i've enjoyed learning from the site, and look forward to my new project. Please let me know if you have any other advise for me as well. i'll start a build thread on the project as soon as i get underway. - Ryan
 

Bondo

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Re: Starting a 4.3 rebuild/auto swap - have a few questions

Ayuh,.... Welcome Aboard,....

#1,.. 1996, or Newer, yes to the cam, yes to the truck...

#3,.. You'll need a 14" flywheel that Matches the motor ya get,... from a standard shift truck is fine..

#4,.. Can't see what ya Got, so's can't say what ya need,... the truck mounts are Useless....
 

Rswilliams13

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May 22, 2012
Messages
4
Re: Starting a 4.3 rebuild/auto swap - have a few questions

Ayuh,.... Welcome Aboard,....

#1,.. 1996, or Newer, yes to the cam, yes to the truck...

#3,.. You'll need a 14" flywheel that Matches the motor ya get,... from a standard shift truck is fine..

#4,.. Can't see what ya Got, so's can't say what ya need,... the truck mounts are Useless....

thanks for the info, good news!

forgot to add, I also do not have the oil pan, will the pan and pickup from the auto engine work?
 

Rswilliams13

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Joined
May 22, 2012
Messages
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Re: Starting a 4.3 rebuild/auto swap - have a few questions


thanks for the link, lots of good info. there we a lot of changes to these engines huh? did merc use the romulus blocks or the Tonawanda's? or both?

The local pick n pull has 8 blazers from 96 - 2000 with the 4.3 vortex. I am gonna try to pick one up and build it up. wish me luck!
 

Struc

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Jul 27, 2011
Messages
409
Re: Starting a 4.3 rebuild/auto swap - have a few questions

I'm in the process of finishing up my truck engine swap right now.

As was mentioned, the 96+ motors have the Vortec heads. You can get an older block and put the 96+ heads on it, though. This may make some things easier. If you go with the complete motor, at least in 96-97 (maybe more), you'll end up with the big cast aluminum oil pan that *may* not fit properly in the boat. Since I can't see, nor am familiar with that boat, I have no idea one way or the other.

The 1990 would be a non-balance shaft motor, while most 92+ (roughly) will be. Probably not really a big deal for you since you're not swapping parts from an original motor. There are some fitment issues with various parts that swap.

What *will* be a pain is all the accessories. The truck motors will come with a single serpentine belt with big bulky aluminum brackets for mounting the alternator, PS Pump, air pump, A/C Compressor, etc. Obviously, you will want it to match closely with what the boat is supposed to have for fitment - hopefully you have all those parts / brackets from the original motor. If you need pictures of how everything goes, I took lots of pictures of mine, and it should be nearly the same since I have a 1988.

Harmonic dampener / pullies are going to be different too - you'll need the originals. Related to that, the timing chain cover will be different, the timing "tab" will stick out way too far for the marine dampener. I had to rip mine off and use a aftermarket timing tab. They are cheap, though.

Motor mounts ARE different. You'll need the boat ones. I have some laying around from my parts boat if you end up needing them. Hit me up in a PM. Also have a spare flywheel too.

In the end, as long as you have the parts from the orignal motor, you're probably going to be OK, but I might still suggest getting a block that is closer matching to what you had (1988-92), so things bolt up properly. You can always just bolt the Vortec heads to an older block, as I mentioned. If not, then I'd suggest you just say screw it and get a 2000+ motor and you'll have to make things adapt.

Here is my thread if you haven't seen it already: http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=520824
 
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