Startup 1972 Evinrude Starflite 100Hp

sunaj

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 25, 2007
Messages
109
Hello,
I am about to try out a new used boat I have been working on, seller claimed the engine (1972 Evinrude Starflite 100Hp) was rebuilt a year ago, looks real clean, turns over strong, what I would like some input on is what fluids should I check before running the engine, I plan to check impeller function upon startup, is there anything else you can reccomend I check before startup, Thanks:)'RudeStarflite100hp 001.jpg

'RudeStarflite100hp 002.jpg

'RudeStarflite100hp 004.jpg
 

patrick4266

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Nov 29, 2007
Messages
591
Re: Startup 1972 Evinrude Starflite 100Hp

That will not have a pee hole unless some one put one on it like I did to mine.

It will also be a electic shift so be sure to check that out. Some one will be on shortly to give you more info
 

F_R

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jul 7, 2006
Messages
28,226
Re: Startup 1972 Evinrude Starflite 100Hp

What are the white wire coil thingys hiding?
 

patrick4266

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Nov 29, 2007
Messages
591
Re: Startup 1972 Evinrude Starflite 100Hp

Admiral I was wondering about that too. I do not know if he did it for extra insulation or if he thought it made it look pretty. Your right though I bet it is hiding something.
 

sunaj

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 25, 2007
Messages
109
Re: Startup 1972 Evinrude Starflite 100Hp

It just looks like a wrap on a wiring bus which also serves to insulate the bus from engine heat also
 

emdsapmgr

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 9, 2005
Messages
11,551
Re: Startup 1972 Evinrude Starflite 100Hp

This is the last year for the electric shift lower units. I'd probably check the lower unit oil to make sure it is not milky (leaking seals.) There are not many of them left anymore and some parts may be getting hard to find. Ditto for finding a mechanic to work on them. Make sure the engine lower unit shifts properly with the control box. These engines take a special lower unit oil. The 85 and 100 hp units that year were the smaller displacement blocks, 92 cubic inches. The 125 and most later engines all used the larger 99 cubic inch blocks. The powerheads are solid, if they have good compression. A new block should have around 125 lbs on all 4 cylinders. Check it. The engine should blow tiny water droplets out the exhaust relief ports just under the lower cowling when the thermostat open up-perhaps a minute after the engine starts. If you have an infrared heat gun, it should idle between 140 and 150 if the thermostat is OK. The electronic ignition uses a box called an amplifier. As I recall, it was pretty expenive years ago when mine failed. You might want to check to see if that part is still available and factor that into your purchase decision. The optional power trim unit for this model is NLA, but there are some still left if you go looking-a nice feature. I ran that exact same engine for years and was really happy with it. It was also a clean engine, like this one seems to be.
 
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