Statement and question!!!!!!???????

[packerman]

At $91.50/hr. for labor and when Skipper Buds told me it would cost $4500 for repair of outdrive(which looking on the net....I could put a new one on myself for $2500 easy), you are crazy not to learn and do as much as you can on your boat!!!! I can put alot of hours in at $10/hr. (value to my time)to their $91/hr. Question: My book that came w/2006 Crownline 4.3L Mercruiser has a winterizing section for a air purge system which I don't have and nothing showing drains for my engine. Should I feel confident that the drains I found (1 each side of block, 1 each manifold and 1 at water pump) will suffice? OH....and special thanks to the ***** at Even Keel in IL who after finding out I didn't buy the boat there wasn't interestred in helping me at all and would put me after his customers if he had time!!!!! What service!!!!!

 

[Haut Medoc]

Re: Statement and question!!!!!!???????

Drain the hose @ the power steering cooler, too..JK

 

[lakelivin]

Re: Statement and question!!!!!!???????

2006 boat; I take it the damage isn't covered under warranty?<br /><br />Sounds like you should buy the Merc Service Manual for your setup. Bet it saves you alot of time & money in the long run.

 

[cobra 3.0]

Re: Statement and question!!!!!!???????

On my 3.0 4 banger there is a drain on the block, on the manifold and on the power steering. Your 4.3 has therefore and extra drain on the second manifold. I you want to be safe add some plumbing anti freeze from the top hose next to the thermostat on the engine. Some drain the hose at the base of the water pump instead.<br /><br />I also remove the drive and store in a heated space. If you keep your drive on, put it in a down position to drain the water out. Change the drive oil as well in case any water may have infiltrated the drive to prevent any freeze damage.

 

[packerman]

Re: Statement and question!!!!!!???????

Sounds like good advice from all. Thanks guys...man, you guys are fast. I'll be getting the manual. Hopefully in time to ease my concerns before first freeze. Thanks again!!!!

 

[Bondo]

Re: Statement and question!!!!!!???????

If you have a reasonable Mechanical Ability,.........And a Craftsman's Wrench Set,.......<br />You should have No Problems keeping a Brand New Boat Running,...............<br /><br />What's Broken Now,.??

 

[Don S]

Re: Statement and question!!!!!!???????

There are way to many unknowns in your original post to even give you a guess.<br />Is the engine a carbed or MPI<br />Is it raw water cooled, or does it have a heat exchanger.<br />Do you have an Alpha drive or a Bravo drive.<br />Even an engine serial number would help some of us get the information for you.

 

[packerman]

Re: Statement and question!!!!!!???????

Guess I should clear up something. The lower unit cost mentioned was for my last boat. 3.0 Mercruiser that I winterized for the last 15 years, but the manual that came w/it was the right version for it. Wish this one had my exact engine with everything diagrammed, so I don't miss a drain.....costly stuff.

 

[packerman]

Re: Statement and question!!!!!!???????

It's a 4.3 Mercruiser I/O, carbed, raw water, Alpha drive. The manual I have with the boat shows instructions for an "air actuated single point drain system". This requires filling system w/air until two green indicators pop up and water starts draining from both sides of the engine. Doesn't say to open anything for the water to drain. But I don't have the air actuated drain system on my engine and that is all the book shows. So had to go ahead and drain all the spots I could find which were: one on each side-low on the block, one on each side- manifold/risers, and one on the lowest part of hose to water pump. My concern is that without a usable book, could I have missed something. Truth told, I thought a response was not likely. And I certainly can use the tips for the P/S cause I've not had P/S on previous boats. So that's my situation and I've taken much more of your guys' time than I had hoped to take. Thank you for your help and time.

 

[Don S]

Re: Statement and question!!!!!!???????

Turns out the 2005 and 2006 4.3L engines with carbs, raw water cooling and Alpha drives are really hard to find any hard information on. Especially the location of drains. Found this in the install manual for then engine/drive combination you have. (Engine SN 0W310000 and above)<br />Post your real SN, and I will try to verify the information.<br /><br /><br />

<br />

<br />

 

[rodbolt]

Re: Statement and question!!!!!!???????

a quick tip.<br /> they sell a kit that holds 5 gallons and attaches to the flush muffs. after everything else is done and about 1/2 can of fogging oil shut the engine down. remove all drains and drain everything. careful the water will be hot.<br /> then remove the hose from the muffs and install the hose from the 5 gallon kit,fill the 5 gallon kit with the proper mix of a good brand like Frost Ban 2000. turn on the kit and restart the engine. continue fogging while watching the level in the mix jug, DO NOT let the mix run dry. shut the engine down after 5 gallons is gone. this will insure the block,drive and all seawater cooled pockets and voids are filled with a corrosion inhibiting AF mix.<br /> on my jug it came with a valve and a thre way connector. I have a valve on the water supply hose. after draining I shut off the supply valve and open the jug valve and restart. use a bunggee cord on the flush muffs to help seal them and to make sure they dont fall off. best results will be had if the jug is kept higher than the lower to allow gravity to assist with pump priming. I only do 2 or 3 hundred a year and find it very quick. in years past me and the forklift driver took care of about 500 boats for winterizing, this year 2 marina's have combined and I am dreading it. most folks wont think of it till the first night the weather channel says it will freeze. nothing like trying to winterize while ice is forming on the decks. if done this way there is no reason to remove the drive for storage as nothing but anti-freeze will be left in it.<br />the drive still needs removal for annual maint and gimbal bearing inspection.

 

[Don S]

Re: Statement and question!!!!!!???????

I sure hope everyone notices in rodbolts method that the first thing that was done after engine warmup was to <br />

remove all drains and drain everything.

Just running antifreeze of any kind through a raw water cooled engine doesn't always work if it's not pre drained.

 

[packerman]

Re: Statement and question!!!!!!???????

Would it need to be up to temp, so the thermostat is open and the anitfreeze goes in there??

 

[packerman]

Re: Statement and question!!!!!!???????

SN# 0W354593

 

[crazy charlie]

Re: Statement and question!!!!!!???????

Thats correct,the engine must be warmed enough to open the Tstat.I keep the AF in my boiler room so it is not cold and mix with hot water so when I introduce it into the system (via the 5 gal jug and muffs) there is no chance of the stat closing up or partially closing .Charlie

 

[packerman]

Re: Statement and question!!!!!!???????

Looks like you guys have me in great shape!!!! Lots of great advice from you all....diagrams look alot more like it. Hell, I don't need a unhelpful dealer when I have you guys!!!! Boat is stored 1 1/2 hours away, but it looks like I need to trace out the P/S and fuel cooler plug (never even heard of a fuel cooler). Keep posted for my repairing of my 20 year old boat I plan to sell once I'm confident it'll hold up. The pinion gears at the top of the upper lower unit mushed and got pieces of metal around. Replaced gears and a couple bearings and have flushed oil and used a couple times....redone oil. Will see what happens this spring. Need to keep my eyes open for a press at a garage sale I see, if I'm going to delve deeper into this. Once again, thank you everyone for all your help.....HAPPY BOATING TO YOU ALL...extra thanks for the diagrams!!!!!!!!

 

[rodbolt]

Re: Statement and question!!!!!!???????

if I am runninrf AF though it I dont normally drain any fuel coolers(EFI) motors or oil coolers unless I am changing the cooler anodes. even with warm water odds are good the t-stat will close and most your AF mix will be on the ground after passing only through the manifolds and risers. always DRAIN the block before running the AF mixture or you may find come spring you were not lucky like last year. the manifolds,risers and coolers dont hold enough water to dilute the AF mix, the block however can and as the Tstat closes from its 140-160 temp and restricts or closes the water flow all cooling water is diverted out the exhaust stream leaving less concentrate in the block.<br />may work until that blue norther and single digit temps we get every few years. then you find your luck ran out and your local mechanic gets a new fishing pole for the spring spawn