Re: Steering at the helm...
Sorry, you are right V4, not V6. I didn't want diagnosis. Here are the two questions I asked.
1)Does someone have a diagram of how a rack steering system works at the helm where it connects to the wheel? :redface:
http://www.downloadingfiles.co.uk/teleflexfiles/library/instructionmanuals/IS-SH5210_15.PDF
There are several variations of rack steering, the link above is for Teleflex style steering. The way the rack, cable and pinion shaft attach or install varies by brand. Some rack systems require the steering or pinion shaft to be removed out the top, some rack assemblies bolt onto the pinion assembly.
I have also seen two types of cable attachments, those with a nut at the end of the cable rod, and those with a c clip.
2)Would it be wise to go ahead and upgrade to a rotary system instead of the rack? :redface:
The rotary system is simpler and easier to work with, but functionally there's not much difference once installed. If your rack isn't bad, I'd leave it.
Durability wise, I've always felt that a rack system was a bit beefier.
With a rotary system, the cable itself wears against the main gear, on a rack, the cable is inside of the rack gear, thus only the helm itself sees any direct wear. The gear to gear design of a rack system will most likely stand up to more force if well maintained and greased.
Rotary style cables are easier to change, as all you need to do is disconnect the cable housing from the helm and pull out the cable while turning the wheel, some rack systems require either removing the rack or pinion assemblies or crawling up under the dash to disconnect the end of the cable, and then many boats still won't have the clearance to pull the cable out.
As a rule of thumb, replacing a rack cable means removing the helm from the dash where as on a rotary, you just slide the cable in and out.
I just wanted to know how the steering worked at the helm and how a rotary system would be better than a rack. You are right, I did state my problem, but I didn't ask for a resolution. I just wanted to know how these certain areas work so I can look them over and see if somethin is wrong there.
My boat is a Cheetah 1650ls bowrider with a Mercruiser 3.0l V4. It's got an alpha one outdrive.:redface:
The Mercury 3.0L engine is not a V4, its an Inline 4 cylinder, or as referred to as an I4.
Seriously though guys, I do appreciate your suggestions on what my problem might be. I'm sorry if I wasn't clear on everything. I just didn't think I needed to share all the specs since I was only asking a couple specific questions. But I really do appreciate your help, really. Thanks guys. :redface:
If you have a steering pull or torque issue, then you need to solve that first.
If the steering doesn't show the same symptoms while at rest with the engine off, then the problem is not the cable or helm.
If you feel the helm may be in need of maintenance or lube, then by all means do it, but its probably not the cause of the issue. Most all cable steering systems will turn harder when the cable is pushing vs. pulling.
You could have any number of issues causing your steering problems.
(Bent skeg, bad or worn torque tab/annode, motor not mounted center or square, or even a prop that is causing the problem. I've had large bladed props create all sorts of torque steer and hard steering in the past).
