Steering cable lube

[beckoning]

A year ago, I submitted a similar post, but need some additional input.

My boat is fresh water only...no salt water. My steering is very stiff, and the rack-n-pinion cable is very difficult to remove and replace, so I'm trying to lube it to gain another year or two. My diagnosis is the cable as all other components work OK. I can remove the rack mechanism from the helm, then I want to lube the inside of the cable vis-a-vis some sort of pressure technique from the helm end (lubricant runs down hill from there). I've read on various sites about NOT using petroleum based products (for example, brake fluid, SeaFoam, 3-n-1 oil, etc, etc) and only using something like WD-40 or liquid graphite to lube the inside. There cannot be a buildup of old grease inside the cable since it is mostly sealed. What are thoughts on what to use for lubricant? I don't want to introduce something that will end up gumming things up. The problem is either corrosion or frayed cable. If frayed, I know replacement is mandatory.

 

[Bob_VT]

It is alleged that they are greased for life......I have found checking the engine end and cleaning that helps. If you disconnect it from the helm - make sure that is smooth too.

Judge for yourself on when to spend the money and I would not compromise safety.

Just FYI I like silicone lubes

People have rigged up cable lubing devices but since you want to keep it in place your choices of design may be limited

 

[GA_Boater]

If you think replacing your steering system is very difficult, wait until you have to explain why someone was hurt because the boat went out of control because your known bad steering failed at the most inopportune time.

You don't fool with bad steering. Replace it!

 

[crazy charlie]

Had same on last 2 boats.Drag was at steering tube in front of motor.Was able to turn both with one finger when done.Gonna need plenty of rags,paper towels ,carb cleaner,seafoam and another person makes it easier.First turn steering wheel until piston is totally out of tube.Wipe it off completely,should be black crap coming off.Repeat this until less black comes off.could be 10-20 times.Now spray carb cleaner or seafoam on the piston.You may want to lay some rags under the tube to catch excess.(carb cleaner works best but is much stronger) Run the piston in and out a few times and wipe off black crap.Keep repeating this until you get less black crap coming off .This took me approx 30 times.If you used carb cleaner do the last few times with seafoam,also if using carb cleaner and you feel it to be getting stiffer then switch right over to seafoam..When u think you have it pretty clean then finish with an oil type or synthetic lube.I used slick 50 spray lube.Wd does not last and will stiffen up within a few days.Repeat this lubing cleaning until you are able to turn steering wheel with one finger and then repeat the lube weekly.Hope this helps so post back and let us know.This has worked flawlessly for me .The only down side is that it gets so lubed that the motor wont stay centered when tilted all the way up .Charlie

 

[crazy charlie]

btw after reading your post again it sounds like the cable inside is what you want to lube.I have been told that diesel or MMO is best

 

[GA_Boater]

No lube ever made will repair a corroded or frayed cable. None!

 

[MTboatguy]

It takes extremely designed systems to lube a cable in the casing and would be cost prohibitive. We had some when I was in the Army for certain specialized applications, but it is not something you would find in a regular shop.

 

[crazy charlie]

if you think replacing your steering system is very difficult, wait until you have to explain why someone was hurt because the boat went out of control because your known bad steering failed at the most inopportune time.end quote"

you don't fool with bad steering. Replace it!

lighten up!! Charlie

 

[GA_Boater]

lighten up!! Charlie

No. I don't want you to be the one hurt when an out of control boat harms you.

 

[harringtondav]

Older Merc steering cables had a grease fitting. New ones don't. Both Merc and Teleflex state 'do not attempt to lubricate'.

My Teleflex rack & pinion took two strong arms to operate after +- 15 yrs. Seemed better disconnected at the tiller, or on the trailer engine off, but very tough when the PS was operating.

After a lot of diagnostics, including checking the PS pump with a snubber valve, I replaced the cable. One finger operation. My son freaked out the first time taking the boat out. He thought the steering was disconnected.

Newer version Merc PS uses the push/pull forces on the cable sheath to shuttle the PS valve which is attached to the sheath. Mine was stiff enough that the valve didn't shuttle. Worse than manual steering.

Per GA_Boater Change your cable. The worst part is disassembling your gunnel/side wall trim to route the new cable.