Sticky shifter cables

[stevenhickeys]

Hello,
I picked up a used 86' 19' Bluefin with a 2.3 I/O and a Cobra outdrive. It is a sweet running boat except for the SHIFT CABLES. It goes from N to D smooth as silk BUT from D to N, I have to do some wiggling of the controler handle, to go from N to R, I have to do more wiggling.

I am aware these cables and outdrives are know for their difficulties and would like to replace the cables to get it to shift right. Has anyone tackled this kind of job or should I have a professional replace and adjust the cables for @ $350.

Any insight and advice is most welcome.

SH

 

[chconger]

Re: Sticky shifter cables

All the "wiggling" your doing; while the engine is running? in the water? On muffs?

 

[Don S]

Re: Sticky shifter cables

Sounds like you have a problem somewhere in the shift interrupt system. Whe coming out of gear, the shift interrupt system causes the engine to miss so the gears in the drive will release. If the shift interrupt switch, or the ESA unit is bad and not causing the miss, then it will be very difficult to get out of gear.

Here is a thread about the shift interrupt system, although it's for a Mercruiser, the reason for it is the same and they work basically the same (Except OMC has the ESA, Merc doesn't)
http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?p=1930449#post1930449

 

[stevenhickeys]

Re: Sticky shifter cables

Chconger,

The boat was in the water when I discovered the shifting problem. From N to F smooth as silk but everything else takes alot of effort. The last time I was idling to the ramp I almost had to shut the motor down to stop the forward progress. Luckly at @ 20' I got it to shift out of F and back into N and coast to the ramp. Not the best feeling for a shake down ride.

SH

 

[stevenhickeys]

Re: Sticky shifter cables

Thank you Don for the thread. It does make sense to me considering the limited shifting experience I have had with this boat. I plan on inspecting, lubricating, and observing how the ESA is performing. Unfortunately, can I assume that testing and adjusting the system needs to be done with the OD submurged in water to offer resistance.

I don't have any problem fiddling around with this system as long as I won't damage the gears. Or I can pay $300 - $400 for a marine professional to install new cables and adjusting the system properly. In the spirit of Iboat, I think I will mess around with this problem before I get a professional rescue.

Most advice I have recieved on these forums have saved me $100's in marine mechanic bills.

You guys are the BEST!!

 

[chconger]

Re: Sticky shifter cables

.........From N to F smooth as silk but everything else takes alot of effort. The last time I was idling to the ramp I almost had to shut the motor down to stop the forward progress.........

SH

You may have a different problem; but that's exactly what happens when the ESA is not working.

Good news is, its just about the easiest thing to check on the system.

Engine running, in neutral, manually activate the ESA switch that rides in the cam. If the engine does not noticably decrease in RPM, you have something wrong in the ESA, or its connections...

If it does stumble the engine, you can then go looking at cables and adjustments there.

Chris

 

[stevenhickeys]

Re: Sticky shifter cables

Thank you Chris, I will give her a test this week.

Again, you guys are the BEST!!

SH

 

[SHickey]

Re: Sticky shifter cables

Hello all,

I did some testing last weekend and discovered one of the micro switches was not closing all the way when I was manually moving the ESA part (with the notches). I re adjusted the switch so that I could hear it "click" , started up the motor but was disappointed when I did not get any cut out or stuttering while the switch was engaged. I then closed the other micro switch (the one w/o the arm) and closed the first switch together at the same time and again, no motor hesitation or stutter.

Where should I go from here? Would you recommend I change both switches and see if that was the problem? Or am I doing something wrong with my test.

SH

PS: Can I use regular 90 gear oil to replace the drained oil from the Cobra unit or should I get a named brand??

 

[chconger]

Re: Sticky shifter cables

The one with the arm is the one to play with.

It works like this; when the switch with the arm is engaged (closed) it sends the signal to the ESA module to stumble the engine. The other switch with the "nub" (no arm) is there to defeat the system at forward throttle. If the "nub" switch, (called the overstroke switch) was not there, the system would still basically work but may engage when you don't want it to.

Anyhoo..

You hear the switch with the arm click. Thats good. Next step is to follow the wires from the switch to the connector to the ESA, take apart the connector and ohm out the pins from that switch. They should have infinite resistance when the swich is not engaged, and have basically 0 ohms when the switch is engaged.

For fun, when the arm switch is engaged, go and depress the overstroke switch, you should see your resistance go back to infinite with both switches engaged.

If all that works as i described, then your switches are OK.

If the system still does not work; The next step is to clean up the ground connection on the ESA (take it apart, shine it all up, put back together with dielectric grease). Then go on to check every connection on the ESA. Remove any corrosion, clean it all up.

If that still does not fix her, then you are probably buying an ESA. About $100.

Dont know about the gear oil. I buy name brand.

Cheers
Chris

 

[SHickey]

Re: Sticky shifter cables

Thank you chconger for the repair path. I will look at the ESA this week and see if I can figure it out. This will probably be the last of a series of messing around with the annoying problems this season.

My wife is after me to get the d____ boat out of the garage so she can use it again. (Some people just can not appreciate a dry, well lit work area). Will let you know how I made out.

SH