Stinger 65 ID Probs

[andrew j cox]

I have a very early model 72 Stinger 65 hp, I know you can’t just convert these to the manual gearbox as the block doesn’t have linkage attach points, I know pretty much shag all about these Id like to drop this onto a 14 foot ply hull I’m going to build later in the year, my motor is missing the reed plate n reeds and carbys, from what I have read and been told the early 65 Stingers push like evil children, I did a compression check while it was laying on its side on the shed floor but couldn’t get it to continuously wind over, either the battery or starter was not feeling well, I got top cylinder to spring upto 100 then the thing wouldn’t wind over it was holding compression got a one in two chance that cyl is ok, got to the middle cyl I was only getting literally a quarter turn I could compression leaking but wasn’t sure if it was leaking past the rings and out theopen side of the crank case or it the tester wasn’t quiet snug enough on the threads, didn’t bother with lower cyl, my quandary here is this, I have been told new pistons can’t be had for the 65 and that Id need to run 70 hp pistons and carbys and Id probably end up with a sludgy snail engine, is what I was told about the pistons true? If I drop the head off it what am I looking for, domed pistons? The comp would have given me reading cold, ordinarily applying car technique I’d do cold with the throttle open, then run up to normal op temp and do again while hot with throttle open, well going back to my youth and shagging around with 351Winger in my old Ford GT, I assume outboard would be same with cold and warm comp readings then throw a wobbly if the reading are really poor, I read the Stinger 65 runs higher compression then standard 65 so do I
Get another starter and a new battery and try again?
Drop the head and have a look see at the pistons and check for slop and condition of the bores?
If I have to change the pots over to something later and want to go for a 75 power head and a manual gearbox will that be going backwards ?,
As I write this I’m getting really itchy to go pull the head off, infact I might do that and take some picks.

 

[F_R]

Whew, lots of reading to do there. But I'll just make a comment or two.

There is a lot more to the shift issue than linkage. The whole lower unit is Hydro-Electric. Nothing wrong with that if it is working, so why do you want to change anyway?

Who says pistons are not available. I just found 9 of them and it only took a couple of minutes. Haven't even tried iboats yet.

Those engines are notorious for catastrophic internal damage from water ingestion through the exhaust. Just so you know, be very thorough in your inspection before you spend money. It's bad enough that all that intake stuff is missing.

There is an eternal argument about blocking the throttle open to test compression, let's not keep it going. That is a car thing, and does not apply to two-stroke outboards. And test the compression cold. How else are you going to know if it is worth repairing?

 

[andrew j cox]

Well I started stripping things off got to the last bolt head on the water jacket and snappo , Im committed now I will just strip it down to its under pants and see how good or bad things, I know a fella in the States who does these for a living he told me pots no longe made wether that was brp pistons I dont know but I would have thought after market manufacturers would still do them and if I looked hard enough nos pistons would pop up, ill get the head of first and see what Im looking at,
i have no reeds or carbs so open throttle for comp test is the way it is fo r my engine lol,

Fella I got the stinger of said the top end had been done up at some stage, it was hit with black paint and was done properly and it’s clean as, inside the intake is spotless no carbon, the rods from what I can see are like new so possibly she’s ok but being the skeptic I am Ive seen more so called done up motors with a coat of paint then I care to think about, I got the Stinger with an old V4 and a lil 50 hp twin with a Chrysler 115 which is what I wanted job lot deal, the V4 he said was a 140 but it an old 85 top on a late leg it was sposed to be great but was shagged I dumped it, the 50 was sposed to be good it had no comp into the skip bin it went, the Stinger well I told that story, I hope that Chrysler is ok coz if its not I will hunt him down and stick two outboards up his backside.

Your comments were spot on F R., Im a Chrysler nut at heart those Chev Orange Stingers are just sexy.

 

[andrew j cox]

Did an ebay hunt and pistons ain’t rare, gaskets sets are way cheaper then here in oz even with the rip off postage rates, im a bit more at ease now,

my engine has the real early power tilt ram bracket, can I swap a later model tilt trim mid section in it?

 

[andrew j cox]

Whew, lots of reading to do there. But I'll just make a comment or two.

There is a lot more to the shift issue than linkage. The whole lower unit is Hydro-Electric. Nothing wrong with that if it is working, so why do you want to change anyway?

Who says pistons are not available. I just found 9 of them and it only took a couple of minutes. Haven't even tried iboats yet.

Those engines are notorious for catastrophic internal damage from water ingestion through the exhaust. Just so you know, be very thorough in your inspection before you spend money. It's bad enough that all that intake stuff is missing.

There is an eternal argument about blocking the throttle open to test compression, let's not keep it going. That is a car thing, and does not apply to two-stroke outboards. And test the compression cold. How else are you going to know if it is worth repairing?

I did look early in the piece at running the manual gearbox but was told the linkage Mount isn’t there on a 65, just yesty a guy looked at it and he said it has the linkage mounts one the lower intake flange, that then made me think is the power head is a 70 or a 75 perhaps

The gearbox is stuck in fwd which I believe is normal for a electric hydro box the prop shaft was spinning as she was turned over, I have only ever owned one electric hydro box on an old 69 V4 85 it went ok

 

[F_R]

Just curious, what is your location?

 

[jimmbo]

In 72 the 'Stinger' was just a paint job and decal difference. it used the old style 'Drop the engine into the twin clamp brackets on the transom' mount system, which was not Power Trim compatible.
https://issuu.com/liquidnirvana/docs...flyer--x---wm-

 

[andrew j cox]

Just curious, what is your location?

Jolly old canberra in sunny australia

 

[andrew j cox]

In 72 the 'Stinger' was just a paint job and decal difference. it used the old style 'Drop the engine into the twin clamp brackets on the transom' mount system, which was not Power Trim compatible.
https://issuu.com/liquidnirvana/docs...flyer--x---wm-

Thanks jimmbo,
i read the 65 Stinger was a feral cat straight from the factory, hi comp head, lightened flywheel, different timing some other differences but the later 70-5 were just paint jobs on standard motors, ill get mine stripped down to components and see what’s what with it, the tilt units are hard to find Incan soon retro something into it.

 

[jimmbo]

The later 3 cylinder 75, had different porting, exhaust tuning, and slightly bigger carbs. It was weaker regarding low end torque when compared to the 70, even though they had the same displacement. But, 1 1/2 hp per cubic inch placed in the same power to displacement as Merc's 150 hp inline 6. There was also a Dealer installed Cylinder Head option for the 75 that increased compression.

 

[andrew j cox]

Ok so head off problem stuck out like balls on a pole cat, shed blown the head gasket, every single water port was caked full of white corrosion I mean packed full, theres some lil pick marks on number comb chamber where she was trying to combust sea water , it has domed pistons so she’s a 65, bores look good to me minimal piston slop at tdc , ill tear it right down now I’m happy it’s not too bad, on comp test she would have been passing comp through either number 1 or 3 plug holes as all plugs were out, ill give the head a dunk in a bath of good old coke that’ll eat all the cruddy stuff out, ill run the dremel around the water galleries, tidy up number 2 combustion chamber and resurface the head on and emery board and the water jacket plate too, i got the head off while power head still in place,

So hopefully it will just need a hone, there no ridge to worry about, re bearing the thing and re ring it, the airings a mess lots of cut wires, the wires that run down the leg for the electric shift how many are there? I cut the o heat sensor wire, I think it’d be madness to reuse that sender, I assume they can be replaced, I still need to pop the burred bolt out the water jacket and remove the busted stud .

 

[andrew j cox]

Ok so head off problem stuck out like balls on a pole cat, shed blown the head gasket, every single water port was caked full of white corrosion I mean packed full, theres some lil pick marks on number comb chamber where she was trying to combust sea water , it has domed pistons so she’s a 65, bores look good to me minimal piston slop at tdc , ill tear it right down now I’m happy it’s not too bad, on comp test she would have been passing comp through either number 1 or 3 plug holes as all plugs were out, ill give the head a dunk in a bath of good old coke that’ll eat all the cruddy stuff out, ill run the dremel around the water galleries, tidy up number 2 combustion chamber and resurface the head on and emery board and the water jacket plate too, i got the head off while power head still in place,

So hopefully it will just need a hone, there no ridge to worry about, re bearing the thing and re ring it, the airings a mess lots of cut wires, the wires that run down the leg for the electric shift how many are there? I cut the o heat sensor wire, I think it’d be madness to reuse that sender, I assume they can be replaced, I still need to pop the burred bolt out the water jacket and remove the busted stud .

as an edit
piston have very minimal slop half way up the bore, the bores look good but could do with a quick deglaze, I guess it’s done a lot work in salt water and was rarely flushed, the piston tops have very minimal coke, the damage to the number two comb chamber has raised edges , if I grind this back a bit with a porting stone will I cause any issues?

 

[andrew j cox]

The water jacket did not want to come away from the head but we got there again jam packed full of crusty crud,

 

[Faztbullet]

Quit wasting your time and money on this...tis a reason it was junked. For the $$ your going to spend on rebuilding it,missing carbs, manifold and harness you can get a running motor. JMO

 

[andrew j cox]

The motors saveable give me a couple of weeks tinkering with it, rare motors here worth a good buck as a fresh runner and I dislike new motors, I love my oldies lol

 

[Rustywrench]

If you are going to replace pistons (you didn't say that), but if you are then Imwould bore it. These motors wear in a way that is hard to measure (around the ports (intake, long port). That is a big port. Also hard to hone properly. Do you have a shop that can do that. Idle quality & end results depend on piston to cylinder wall fit! The rest of the repair will be slow, but doable.
Be sure to pull cylinder head cover. Need to replace poppet valve & thermostat, seat on this old bird! No telling how much corrosion is in there. JMHO

 

[andrew j cox]

Well I’ll say this when the head come off every gallery and around the bores were solid with corrosion, the jacket took some getting off but it came of, swearing helped a lot lol
i have shops here that can hone it no probs, when the slugs are out I will have a good look at it, I have all the time in the world to potter around on the Stinger.