Strange rpm change based on battery selection

bleedblue94

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Oct 11, 2010
Messages
272
j175txctd
j5854054

Motor has been running great for awhile now. new within the last two years:
stator
rec/reg
power packs

both batteries are two years old and are kept on a tender when not in use
batt 1 - starting battery
batt 2 - deep cycle


This weekend I went out for a slow cruise and everything was fine. We then turned back in order to catch game 5 of the finals (nhl). On the way back to the cottage, while running WOT my jbl amp started cutting out and flashing its blue lights on the front of it (this is supposedly bc the amp is getting less than 9 volts)

I then noticed that the motor was sort of bogging or missing slightly and was dipping back and forth between 5200-4900rpm (water was calm). My volt reading stayed constant, and while underway I changed my battery switch to #2 only. When I did this the rpm issue stayed and the amp continued flashing (just as it did while shared), but the motor did not die and the volt reading stayed 13+.

When I switched to #1 everything seemed to be normal: amp came back on like it should and the motor seemed to level back out, while the volt reading did not move at all.

I guess my question is IF the #2 is dying already for some reason, how would it be affecting the rpm of the motor when #1 is still on the circuit, and why are my volt readings staying the same/true regardless of which battery I have isolated on the circuit? It seems the amp is telling me that #2 is dying, hence the flashing lights at under 9 volts, but nothing else electrical seemed affected and everything was working right.

BUT, also of note is that the amplifier power is directly drawn off the #2, which makes it hard for me to understand how if the #2 batt is dying, why does everything seem to work correctly if that batt is off the charging circuit?

Yes, I checked all connections and they are all tight and clean.

TIA!!
 
Last edited:

bleedblue94

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Oct 11, 2010
Messages
272
UPDATE:

It appears I am looking at a regulator issue again. Volts on both batteries hold at 13.6 at low/mid rpm ranges, then once the motor is pushed to 4000+ rpm the volts shoot up to 16+. Question is would a malfunctioning regulator kill a battery, and/or would a bad battery kill a regulator?
 

emdsapmgr

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 9, 2005
Messages
11,551
That engine has a two types of coils on the stator. One set of coils re-charges the battery. The other set make voltage to fire the ignition. They are separate systems. If you are having battery problems-they are unrelated to the normal operation of the ignition and rpm's of the engine. If it weren't for the charging system on the engine, it could run without a battery in the circuit-once the engine is running. (you need to have a battery in the system to absorb the charging.) That year's engine has an unusual charging system, in that it has both a rectifier and a separate regulator. The rectifier by itself would let the engine charge up to 16+ volts. The downstream regulator will cut that high charge rate off to around 13.5 volts. Makes me wonder if the regulator is acting up periodically. Your rpm variances relate to misfiring-an ignition problem, or even some water in the fuel. I'm not a fan of your battery setup. That engine is setup to run on a starting battery. If you want to run two batteries-run two starting batteries. You are mixing the two types of batteries in the same circuit (starting and deep cycle.) You may want to reconsider that.
 

jakedaawg

Rear Admiral
Joined
Jun 26, 2012
Messages
4,275
I have yet to see a battery switch that allows you to switch batterys while engine is running. This creates a dead short and immediately toasts the rec/reg.
 

Chris1956

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 25, 2004
Messages
28,074
Jake, Most modern marine battery switches are make-before-break style, which are designed to connect the second battery, before disconnecting the first battery, when switching between. You might look up your battery switch model number to see what type you have.
 

Outsider

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Apr 24, 2007
Messages
1,022
I haven't seen one that doesn't let you switch batteries while running in 20 years. With that said, however, an over-torqued switch can alter the contacts. I have seen that, because I did it ... :facepalm:
 

bleedblue94

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Oct 11, 2010
Messages
272
That engine has a two types of coils on the stator. One set of coils re-charges the battery. The other set make voltage to fire the ignition. They are separate systems. If you are having battery problems-they are unrelated to the normal operation of the ignition and rpm's of the engine. If it weren't for the charging system on the engine, it could run without a battery in the circuit-once the engine is running. (you need to have a battery in the system to absorb the charging.) That year's engine has an unusual charging system, in that it has both a rectifier and a separate regulator. The rectifier by itself would let the engine charge up to 16+ volts. The downstream regulator will cut that high charge rate off to around 13.5 volts. Makes me wonder if the regulator is acting up periodically. Your rpm variances relate to misfiring-an ignition problem, or even some water in the fuel. I'm not a fan of your battery setup. That engine is setup to run on a starting battery. If you want to run two batteries-run two starting batteries. You are mixing the two types of batteries in the same circuit (starting and deep cycle.) You may want to reconsider that.

hey bud, sorry i left out a massive piece of info. two years ago, based on input fro guys of this site including you, i upgraded the charge system to the 35 amp setup. i replaced the flywheel, stator, rec/reg unit(s), and updated the wiring to the proper year spec. I dont have the info in front of me right now.

everything ran fine for two years nearly

motor is running great when the batteries are slightly drained down. it acted up when volts peaked, and i am pretty sure it started missing slightly bc of the heat/voltage buildup due to the higher volts. i have a replacement rec/reg unit that i will install next weekend up at the lake.

regarding the switch, i may upgrade to a switch with the field disconnect feature to protect my rec/reg unit, that or i may run my charge wire directly from the rec/reg unit to the starting battery.

the reason i have a starting battery and a deep cycle is simply bc i use one for starting and when we are just drifting i have my stereo and electronics all running and i dont want to get stranded nor do i want to constantly run down a starting battery and kill it early.

emdsapmgr, do you have any thoughts/feedback?

thanks
 
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