Stringer and Transom Replacement

nelsonssix

Recruit
Joined
Jun 15, 2009
Messages
4
I jumped into boating with both feet, a sawsall,drill, hammer, belt sander and lots of patience and oh a 197?'s Chrysler portable pool. I figured what better way to understand your first boat than get a project boat ($100 Boat,Trailer and Motor). My question in the order of replacing the rotted parts. I wanted to make sure I understood this process.. Transom, Stingers then deck. Also I wanted to replace the foam, I see many post on this topic but I figured for my 1st boat I would put everything back ( as close as possible) to factory. When I pour the new 2 lb foam do I pop holes in the deck and pour the foam in the holes or do I need to pour the foam before attaching the deck?

One other question, does anyone know where to lookup the Model number on Chrysler boats. The towable pool, has a plate next to the helm which has it listed as a Model 550. I searched through some Chrysler sales brochures online and as far as I can tell based on the hull style its a Courier some where around 1974 or 75.

Any ways any input or wisdom would be greatly appreciated.
:eek:
 

jonesg

Admiral
Joined
Feb 22, 2008
Messages
7,198
Re: Stringer and Transom Replacement

I rebuilt my chrysler 20' center console, from working under the deck it looks like they installed stringers/bilge walls and cross braces in the mold.
Then they inserted the molded deck liner and finally they injected the foam, there are limber holes for the excess foam to vent out of in the bilge.
The top of the foam also fits the molded glass deck perfectly, theres no other way of doing that. Needless to say they knew exactly how much foam to pump in, there were very few voids.

If you use a plywood deck you can do the foam beforehand,

but with the glass deck the foam supports the deck and should be done after deck is in place.

Foam or no foam, doesn't matter, the important thing is the transom and stringers. Foam is a personal choice, transom isn't.
 

nelsonssix

Recruit
Joined
Jun 15, 2009
Messages
4
Re: Stringer and Transom Replacement

Thanks jonesg. I was wonder how they did that.

I was going to do the math for each section and measure out the liquid before pouring into the holes but I am not interested in all that trig and geometry, I think I like the wood deck idea. I think I will fiberglass both sides of the plywood after I dry fit the pieces and pour the foam in before attaching the deck.

I also wanted to know if anyone had an opinion on laminating resins such as those used on surf boards. My idea for the transom is to laminate a 3/8 ply in between 3/4 ply using either a polyester laminating resin or a polyester glue such as Gorilla glue and a laminating press to get the needed 1 7/8 thickness. I also thought about a piece of 1/8 aluminum plate and 1/4 ply so it would be Ply,AU,Ply,Ply. Would the Aluminum add too much stiffness or am I just wasting money?

Has anyone ever laminated 1/4 to build up the transom? I toyed with using 7 layers of 1/4 luan cut in different grain directions an then laminated with alternating layers of glass in between.
 

jonesg

Admiral
Joined
Feb 22, 2008
Messages
7,198
Re: Stringer and Transom Replacement

Dunno, my transom was around 2 1/2 inch,
its 3 inches now.:p
Most guys just sandwich 3/4 PT ply to build transom thickness with poly resin and mat between them.
Just make sure the wood's dry or the poly will not take at all.
Gorilla is urethane.?
PL Premium construction glue is very good too. I prefer the PL to gorilla.

You can pour excess foam and trim it off with a bread knife, I glued my deck back to the foam with zigzag beads of PL Premium.
Also bedded the stringers with it.
 
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