Stripped out shift rod connector

po1973

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Feb 22, 2008
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13
Has anyone had experience with the brass stripping out from over-tightening on a shift rod connector? I was thinking of tapping it and going a size up in bolt diameter.

The motor is a '68 18HP Fastwin:eek:

-Patrick
 

tashasdaddy

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
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Nov 11, 2005
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51,019
Re: Stripped out shift rod connector

i think the diameter is made to fit the groove in the shift rod. send me a PM.
 

tmcalavy

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Aug 29, 2001
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Re: Stripped out shift rod connector

Or just replace the connector...I did that a couple of years ago, seems like it was less than $25 including postage. Trick to that is to use a bright flashlight...when you get the bottom shift rod up in the connector, use the shift lever to toggle the connector up and down, checking position of the notch in the bottom rod with the flashlight...must be just right.
 

F_R

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Jul 7, 2006
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28,226
Re: Stripped out shift rod connector

tm got it right. If you don't have the notch lined up perfectly, the bolt will rub on the edge of the notch and wipe the threads off every time. Then it falls out five miles from the dock. Never falls out dockside.
 

R.Johnson

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Sep 24, 2003
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4,446
Re: Stripped out shift rod connector

The connector is tapped 1/4-28. You can sometimes get by if you retap it 1/4-20, that will sometimes clean up the thread, and you still have the correct diameter.
 

F_R

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Re: Stripped out shift rod connector

You can always heli-coil it if you already have a Heli-coil kit. Otherwise, it is cheaper to replace it.
 

R.Johnson

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Re: Stripped out shift rod connector

FR: Did you ever try to heli-coil this item? Try it, and see how much material you have left to work with after drilling the hole for the insert, also measure the depth of hole for the insert, then cut the insert to lengh. This is after tapping for insert of course.
 

ezeke

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Sep 19, 2003
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12,532
Re: Stripped out shift rod connector

You could always add a longer bolt and put a lock nut on it. I've done that and flipped a couple of mine so that the remaining good screw (the one I would take out in the future) was on the bottom.
 

po1973

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Feb 22, 2008
Messages
13
Re: Stripped out shift rod connector

I got a new "used" connector and bolts; after taking some TIME to line things up properly, I was able to get the rods to snap into place. Another point, it only slipped into place after I had removed the bolt(s) completely. I think that is the key, you've got to start with the bolt OUT of the brass connector or you'll strip threads every time. Thanks for the tips, etc.! I'm off to the lake tomorrow morning to see how it shifts in real world conditions.

'68 18hp Fastwin rolling out!

patrick
 

po1973

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Joined
Feb 22, 2008
Messages
13
Re: Stripped out shift rod connector

Apparently I didn't line up the grommet to the uptake tube as there was no water being pissed out the rear exhaust holes (upper). Got home, dropped lower unit (again) and inspected impeller. All looked ok so I put back together and before I attached LU I hooked up my 3/4" drill motor to the driveshaft to see if the water pump was moving H2O. It wasn't. Took water pump housing off again and put it all back together again; I think the housing wasn't sealed all the way around on the wear plate. Ran drill in 5 gallon bucket again and it was kicking out lots of H2O. Reattached LU and am ready to roll. Will update with lake report soon.

po
 

CATransplant

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Feb 26, 2005
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6,319
Re: Stripped out shift rod connector

Trouble is with the long shaft conversions on the Big Twins, the shift shaft connector is 5" longer, and getting it out is a huge chore.

I did fix one that stripped this way. You do it at your own risk, though:

1. With lower unit off, drill the rear hole out to 1/4", removing all the threads.
2. Drill the outer hole in the connector to 5/16"
3. Tap the rear hole with a 5/16" tap. Lubricate well, because taps like to stick in brass.
4. With a dremel and a 5/16" diameter round stone, carefully enlarge the groove to just a 5/16" profile. Don't remove any more metal than you absolutely must! Frankly, I just did the side of the shift shaft where the bolt would pass by.
4. Re-install the lower unit and make very, very sure the groove lines up with the hole before re-inserting a proper lenght 5/16" cap screw. (Note: you can find 5/16" cap screws with a 7/16" hex head at auto parts stores. This makes it easier)

Always be careful after doing this. Don't overtighten and strip the threads. You've gone as large as you can go.
 
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