stuck prop solutions?

[Tripp Halbert]

My prop is seized up from salt corrosion on the prop shaft. I've read up about using a puller and whatnot. Has anyone ever tried doubling two nuts on the shaft to give slack of about 3 inches or so. so , in theory, when u drive the boat in the water and put the prop under load, the prop will push away from the boat, within the slack area provided, and break itself free? Hopefully this makes sense guys...what are your thoughts?

 

[Texasmark]

1. Where are you going to get room for 3" and 2 nuts?

2. When running the boat the prop drives into the engine unless in reverse.

3. The thrust produced by the prop is nothing compared to impact with a maul.

4. Get a cheap 4" grinder and extra grinding discs from Harbor Freight and grind it off. You probably need a new prop anyway if it's been installed long enough to corrode in place. You'll find many uses for the tool. Last one I bought was $20 and have been using it semi regularly for at least 15 years.

5. Apply a good water proof grease to the shaft before you install your new prop. Lubriplate (the white grease) is ideal for marine applications....auto parts stores have it.

Don't use heat as it will destroy your prop shaft seal.

Good luck
Mark

 

[Tripp Halbert]

Thanks man, I didn't know that about the prop movement. I was just using 3" as an example. I have everything to cut it, what way do people usually cut, parallel to the shaft? I'd imagine I have to make like 3 or 4 different cuts in order to get it off..right?

 

[Chris1956]

Gee, First tilt the motor up and soak the splines with some penetrating oil. After a while put a 2X4 between the prop blades and pry gently against the gearcase. Rotate the prop and pry against all three blades.

If that doesn't get it, you can try a puller. If that fails, you need to go to grinding it off. Remember the prop is aluminum, over a runner hub, over a brass splined hub. One way to get the brass hub off is to crack it with a cold chistle. So grind a groove in the prop on to sides and remove it. Cut the rubber off with a knife or saw. Now grind a groove in the brass hub and crack it. Be careful not to wreck the gearcase.

 

[Tripp Halbert]

Good info, thanks. Sounds like fun

 

[minuteman62-64]

I did this a number of years ago. One thing I remember is, when I ground almost through the aluminum, the rubber expanded with a vengeance and split the remaining aluminum. No injury, but it sure was a surprise - be ready for it

 

[gm280]

I read the comments and honestly can't see how a quality puller can't pull that prop of. If you can get the arms behind the end of the prop it should apply enough force to pull it off. But then I'm not there and therefore can't see the actual job either... JMHO!

 

[mr 88]

I read the comments and honestly can't see how a quality puller can't pull that prop of. If you can get the arms behind the end of the prop it should apply enough force to pull it off. But then I'm not there and therefore can't see the actual job either... JMHO!

You will end up cracking the aluminum prop housing before it moves. This is a common problem and in most of the cases it has to be cut off.

 

[rookie456]

I had a stuck prop last year. I tried everything I could think of, from soaking it with pb blaster, to trying a 5ton hydraulic puller. What finally worked was heating the back of the prop, the pressed in part, and using a harmonic puller with chains and hooks. Heat makes a world of difference when things are stuck.

 

[mr 88]

Have to be careful with heat as the prop shaft seal is right at the back of the prop. Wouldn't want to dig any deeper into that drive based on your prop issue.

 

[Tripp Halbert]

My corroded prop is an issue but also pulling on it scares me because this thing has play in it. ive never had an engine have forward play. when i push on the prop, it and the shaft both move forward about a 1/4" or so. is this normal for this lower unit?

 

[mr 88]

Yes the play is normal at least compared to mine,not sure what the actual spec is.Cut it off,sawzall,3"cut of wheel,hacksaw,and follow the advice that vhris1956 gave.

 

[Tripp Halbert]

10-4

 

[Texasmark]

I read the comments and honestly can't see how a quality puller can't pull that prop of. If you can get the arms behind the end of the prop it should apply enough force to pull it off. But then I'm not there and therefore can't see the actual job either... JMHO!

If it's a rubber hub, you will pull the shell off the hub and the brass to ss prop shaft will still be intact. Guess the plastics will be the same thing.

 

[gm280]

If it's a rubber hub, you will pull the shell off the hub and the brass to ss prop shaft will still be intact. Guess the plastics will be the same thing.

Tex, I understand what you're saying, but then wouldn't the actual prop still be intact and only needing rehubed to use it again? If you could pull the prop shell off intact, then cut the remaining material off the prop shaft, you could have the shell rehubed and still use the prop again. IDK, just thinking out loud here...

 

[Chris1956]

Certainly it is possible the prop will be able to be rehubbed and reused. Of course, the prop shop will need to find and install a new brass spline, which will push the cost up a bit. Likely the prop will be damaged in the attempt at pulling it.

 

[Texasmark]

Tex, I understand what you're saying, but then wouldn't the actual prop still be intact and only needing rehubed to use it again? If you could pull the prop shell off intact, then cut the remaining material off the prop shaft, you could have the shell rehubed and still use the prop again. IDK, just thinking out loud here...

Rubber hub needs to be professionally pressed in by a prop shop. Plastic hub, just pull the shell off when ever you desire and when you have finished your hub removal process, just buy a new hub, put it in the prop shell and mount em.