Stupid Flywheel Nut!

[fmjnax]

Ok guys, any tricks for getting the dang flywheel nut off an '84 V4 115? I'm guessing it has NEVER been removed. I have the flywheel secured down to where it won't move and I've soaked the thing in PB Blaster. All I have it a big a$$ crescent wrench and I've been giving the end of it quick hits to try and break it free.

I'm going to AutoZone tomorrow so I will get a socket for it if I don't get it to break free soon, but I don't know that it will make it a difference. I do have a big breaker bar, but no air compressor (so no impact wrench) and I can't take the boat/motor anywhere to have someone else break it.

Any tricks to try other than the socket on the breaker bar or wait until I can take it to a tire shop or buy a compressor and air wrench?

 

[Will Bark]

If you have a Harbor Freight store in your area they sell a heavy duty 1/2"drive electric impact wrench which has come in handy for stubborn nuts. Good luck

 

[fmjnax]

Ohhhh, good call! I didn't even think about an electric impact wrench. I guess my brain is shot for the day. I'm for sure heading to my local HF tomorrow. Thanks Will!

 

[racerone]

I use a battery powered impact.--------1-5/16" socket and ZZZZZZZZIP the nut is off.

 

[Theeplaymaker]

I use a battery powered impact.--------1-5/16" socket and ZZZZZZZZIP the nut is off.

Same here...I held off for the longest time getting the 1/2" impact gun for my Ryobi set and it has been something I have used the most on a lot of things so you definitely won't regret buying one if you do a lot of vehicle/boat maintenance! Now for getting the actually flywheel off...make sure you pick up the harmonic balancer puller and a 1/2" breaker bar if you don't have one already. I used both of those from harbor freight to get mine off, the only thing you'll have to get is the bolts and I can't remember what their thread pattern is off the top of my head but the ones in the kit didn't work on my '91 60hp. I thought I snapped something when the flywheel finally broke free and that was after a week with the puller having pressure on it.

Good luck.

 

[emdsapmgr]

I always use a 1/2" breaker bar and socket. Seems to work for my engines. It was originally torqued on at 100-105 ft lbs. [Depending on what type socket you may have, it may or may not nest properly between the flywheel and the nut. I've had to grind the outer lip of the socket away in order that it will lower enough to completely grab the height of the nut. Just depends if you have a thin-walled socket or not.]

 

[gm280]

Any nut will break lose with either an electric or pneumatic impact wrench. But usually that nut is the least of your problems. The flywheel itself is the next obstacle...believe me. You will certainly need some very good (grade 8) bolts and a very good flywheel, pulley puller. Without such, you will spend a lot of time trying to remove the flywheel, and still may not get it off. But don't think any old bolts will work because they will not. I tried that and literally snapped two sets of regular grade bolts off before going and buying grade 8 bolts.... Just a heads up.

 

[fmjnax]

I've been putting off getting an impact tool for a while now. I know there have been many times I have wished I had an impact wrench. This time I'm going to do something about it!

I have a steering wheel puller that I got from AutoZone a while back. I believe it is of decent quality; probably better than what HF would sell, anyway. One of the bolt sets it came with fits perfectly, so hopefully I can get the actual flywheel off without too much trouble today.

 

[gm280]

fmjnax. good luck with a steering wheel puller. Personally I honestly don't think it will work. Especially with the bolts those things come with from the factory. You can borrow a really good stout wheel puller from most any auto parts store and buy some grade 8 bolts to remove that flywheel. Anything short of that is questionable at its best. I thought better too until I had to break down and buy the proper quality bolts... And make sure you thread the bolts at least 1/2" deep but not much more or you could damage things underneath the flywheel if the threaded holes go all the way through. Keep us informed and hope it works out for you...

 

[Big Fish Billy]

And if you're working in this Wintery cold, a little heat will go a long way, I have a heavy duty electric paint stripper, but have good success with the wife's hair dryer...a little safe heat goes a long way, especially if you've soaked it with the Blaster.......

 

[fmjnax]

I'll pick up some grade 8 bolts while I am out. I went to check what I had and it looks like they are grade 5? (3 lines on the head).

 

[fmjnax]

On a side note, does anyone know what the exact size/thread is for the puller holes?

 

[F_R]

Lots of discussion here about getting the flywheel off, with only a passing mention of putting it back on. It is absolutely necessary that the shaft and flywheel tapers be clean and dry.....as in shiny clean and dry. And it is absolutely necessary that the nut be torqued to the proper spec. Probably 100-105 ft lbs, but verify that. Whatever it is, don't think you can guess at it. You NEED a torque wrench!! You can borrow one from places like Auto Zone. There are lots of motors in the dump because they were ruined because the flywheel was improperly installed.

 

[fmjnax]

Thanks F_R. Always good information to know and share, but I had already picked up on that from other sources so I'm good there. I also have a big torque wrench on the ready as well.

 

[gm280]

On a side note, does anyone know what the exact size/thread is for the puller holes?

Not really sure about your engine but mine were 1/4 X 20 if I remember correctly now. You can take a bolt and thread it in and make sure it is the correct size and then carry that bolt to the store to buy the grade 8 bolts. Keep in mind the depth of the threaded holes and the pulley you will use to make sure you get the correct length bolts... A little too long and you can stack washers if needed, but too short and it will never work... JMHO!

 

[racerone]

No the 1/4"-20 is for the wee motors.---Big motors take 5/16 fine thread.

 

[gm280]

Ha raceone, who you calling wee motors....I resemble that remark... :cold:

Mine is a 40HP Johnson...I guess that is a wee motor...kinda... oh the pain, the pain :frown-new:

 

[racerone]

The V-4 motors have used the 5/16" bolt for more than 40 years.

 

[rothfm]

No Title

I made up this simple flywheel holder with a circle in the middle to accomodate the large socket for the nut removal, while I have the block strapped down.

It has 3 holes to match the bolts for the threaded holes for the puller also. I usually figure an overnight for the flywheel to pop off. Hour by hour, I give the puller bolt a couple turns, sometimes some small taps with a hammer on the puller bolt, or some careful light taps under the flywheel. Always come off. Had one pop in the middle of the night, scared me!!

 

[gm280]

rothfm, Whatever works is my theory. They do make some very loud cracks when they finally break loose don't they. As with so many others on here, I thought the flywheel broke in pieces when mine let loose...