suzuki v6 experts please read!!!

[jay dezman]

looking for advise on a good technique for installing/adjusting the throttle position switch.<br /><br />in addition, what is the downside for a misadjusted switch.<br /><br />thanks for the help!!!

 

[bigbrownbuku]

Re: suzuki v6 experts please read!!!

the tps is 1 of many sensors sending info to the ecu. incorrect tps readings will affect the engine through the entire rpm range. get it setup by a professional

 

[ThomWV]

Re: suzuki v6 experts please read!!!

They are not at all hard to adjust, it only takes a couple of minutes to do and requires an ohm-meter.<br /><br />To adjust you first have to remove the oil tank so you can get to it - remove 4 bolts and the sender wires from the oil level probe. You do not have to disconnect the oil line, just swing the tank back towards the rear of the engine and tie it in place out of the way.<br /><br />The throtle position sensor is on the bottom carb and has a pig-tailed plug, unplug it.<br /><br />There are 3 screws holding the sensor in place and they also allow it to rotate, though not very well. Loosen the screws to the extent necessary to allow you to move the sensor but do not loosen them so much that it moves very easily.<br /><br />Connect an ohm-meter to the wires at the plug. Your negative lead shold go to the black wire, the positive lead should be connected to the gree/red wire.<br /><br />As you rotate the sensor the indicated resistance (Ohms) will change, adjust it so that it reads 240 Ohms. Tighten down the screws. Check the reading again because sometimes as you tighten the screws it throws off the reading. When you get it right plug it back in and put the oil tank back on. That's it. Not very hard.<br /><br />There is an alignment pin that is on the outside cover of the sensor. If you are just adjusting it you DO NOT use that pin for anything at all. In fact with that pin installed you can not adjust the sensor at all - it locks the gear wheel in place that you are trying to adjust. The pin is to be used when a new sensor is put on or when the carb is removed and disassembled for whatever reason.<br /><br />If you get the sensor improperaly adjusted the immediate result will show up in engine idle. It will either not idle at all or you will not be able to bring the idle down low enough that you can get the engine in gear if you get it wrong. What it will not have very much effect on is how the engine runs at speed. I will have a little effect on low end and mid range if you have it pretty far off (far enough that if you can get it in gear at all the Clunk will scare the hell out of you) but at WOT you wouldn't see any difference if you took the thing off and threw it away.<br /><br />Thom

 

[jay dezman]

Re: suzuki v6 experts please read!!!

thanks.<br /><br />i suspect the switch, but the root problem i'm having is that the torque/power available is down...noticeably.<br /><br />the engine has good compression in all cylinders (above 110)yet it will not plane the hull (now, it used to). the motor's twin, has noticeably more torque, will plane the hull and pulls 700 rpm more with both wide open.<br /><br />so my problem is, what could cause a noticeable decline in power, yet still idle well?

 

[ThomWV]

Re: suzuki v6 experts please read!!!

Clogged high speed jet in one carburator could do it.<br /><br />Just remember the main rule for figguring out engine problems. "When you have narrowed it down to an ignition problem that means that the problem is with the fuel system. When you have narrowed it down to the fuel system that means that the problem is wit the ignition system." I have rarely seen the rule fail.<br /><br />If you were to bring the RPM up rapidly, but not just slamming the throtle down, while going to get up on plane does it stumble at any point in the midrange? Say somewhere around the 1,500~2,500 RPM range? I mean that as a function of throtle positon, not just RPM.<br /><br />Thom

 

[jay dezman]

Re: suzuki v6 experts please read!!!

no, motor pulls (relatively)fine, pulling smoothly just down on power.<br /><br />spoke to a suzuki tech today by phone several states away....<br /><br />to summarize briefly:<br /><br />he felt there is a problem with one cylinder....<br /><br />despite the relative uniformity of compression, one cylinder could be leaking water into the cylinder essentially "putting out the fire"<br /><br />or<br /><br />the exhaust water cover could be leaking water with the same result<br /><br />interesting fact he said was that they recommend replacing head gaskets every 4 years (max).<br /><br />his recommendation was to pull the plugs, look for one "different" than the rest and then trouble shoot that cylinder for the above.<br /><br />anyone else aware of limited life expectancy on head gaskets?