Swaping out 3.0 L engines, what to think about.

superfets

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Mar 6, 2017
Messages
139
Hi all, how is everybody?

So my first new to me boat came with a 1988 3.0 liter engine, sn# B832128. So i ordered the #10 service manual for 85-89. It will be here any day. But now that I'm buying a different engine to replace the original engine cause of the busted crankshaft I'm wondering the following. Will this manual work for both engines? I was told the serial number for the replacement engine sn# is 5636028. I can't seem to find what year that makes it? Can anyone enlighten me? Is the replacement a pre Alpha engine. And what service manual applies to that engine? Also, I plan to swap over everything i can from old engine to replacement engine. So the question is will the service manual suffice for both engines? Or is that a bad idea?

Now onto the swap itself. What problems do you think i will run into? Like i said, all that i was hoping to use from the replacement engine was the block and head. But i also fear that my manifold has a crack. I have yet to confirm how bad it is. But i may need to swap that also. What about the rest? Coupler, carb, alternator, power steering pump, distributor...ect. Let me know what you think, any and all opinions/thoughts are welcome. Below are pictures of both engines.

Thanks again everyone.

P.S. What should i do to the boat/engine to make my life easier later on before i put it all back together?
 

Attachments

  • photo260220.jpg
    photo260220.jpg
    189.3 KB · Views: 0
  • photo260325.jpg
    photo260325.jpg
    107.1 KB · Views: 0
  • photo260332.jpg
    photo260332.jpg
    27.6 KB · Views: 0
  • photo260355.jpg
    photo260355.jpg
    18.4 KB · Views: 0
  • photo260356.jpg
    photo260356.jpg
    41 KB · Views: 0
  • photo260357.jpg
    photo260357.jpg
    41.3 KB · Views: 0
  • photo260358.jpg
    photo260358.jpg
    34 KB · Views: 0
  • photo260531.jpg
    photo260531.jpg
    140.9 KB · Views: 0

Bondo

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Apr 17, 2002
Messages
71,082
So the question is will the service manual suffice for both engines? Or is that a bad idea?

Ayuh,... The Long Block motors didn't change til the 1pc rear main seal in '90, so yer manual will work just fine,....
Yer not usin' all the accessories off the older motor anyways,....

I explained the "Gotchas" I know 'bout in yer other thread,....
If the riser/ elbow swaps to the newer manifold, ya oughta be in for a simple plug, 'n play swap,...
If not, determine how busted the ole manifold is, 'n if it's Just cracked to the outside, epoxy it, 'n go Boatin',.....
 

superfets

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Mar 6, 2017
Messages
139
Ayuh,... The Long Block motors didn't change til the 1pc rear main seal in '90, so yer manual will work just fine,....
Yer not usin' all the accessories off the older motor anyways,....

I explained the "Gotchas" I know 'bout in yer other thread,....
If the riser/ elbow swaps to the newer manifold, ya oughta be in for a simple plug, 'n play swap,...
If not, determine how busted the ole manifold is, 'n if it's Just cracked to the outside, epoxy it, 'n go Boatin',.....

Good to hear about the manual. And ya, I'll be taking a real close look at that manifold. I though i would start a new thread for this is a new topic. I will keep everybody updated with pictures and with what i will have learned along the way. I really hope it all goes well. Thanks Bondo.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
50,234
I would buy a new manifold... using old busted manifolds is like using a soiled diaper. you will soon have to change it
 

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
42,548
I hope you bought your manual from ebay or a dealer and not from one of the online sites
 

superfets

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Mar 6, 2017
Messages
139
I would buy a new manifold... using old busted manifolds is like using a soiled diaper. you will soon have to change it

Lol! I'm hoping the manifold on the replacement engine will work. Then ya, I will probably be shopping for a new one. Thanks Scott
 
Last edited:

superfets

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Mar 6, 2017
Messages
139
I hope you bought your manual from ebay or a dealer and not from one of the online sites

Yes ebay, I managed to find a new old stock one. Seller said the dealership closed. I got it for 20 busks US. Shipping was another 15 bucks.
 

superfets

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Mar 6, 2017
Messages
139
No Title

What tools would you recommend it invest in right away? Would you replace bellows, gimbal bearing and u joint bearings from you you see in the pictures. I am planing on splitting it open to do the impeller and the u joint feels fine. I don't know how to test the gimbal bearing while it's in there. It hasn't been in the water for almost 2 years. And it was stored outside with the transom in the up position that whole time. Thanks again.
And the local mercruiser guys want 350$ for an alignment tool!
 

Attachments

  • photo260217.jpg
    photo260217.jpg
    188 KB · Views: 0
  • photo260218.jpg
    photo260218.jpg
    226.5 KB · Views: 0
Last edited:

Bondo

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Apr 17, 2002
Messages
71,082
And the local mercruiser guys want 350$ for an alignment tool!

Ayuh,.... They're Waayyy Cheaper on ebay,.... $350. is Stupid money, for an alignment bar,....

To check the gimbel bearin',...
Stick yer finger in the greasey hole, 'n trun the inner race, feelin' for smoothness, or roughness,...
Look over the bellows,... If ya see any checkin' goin' on at the ridges or valleys, throw on a new set,....
If ya think ya need trim limit or a trim gauge, ya probably need new sender/ switches,...
I personally see no need for either, 'n have billet caps on my gimbel ring,....
 

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
42,548
Stick you fingers in the gimbal bearing and roll it around some feeling for any roughness, or play. If any is found, the bearing needs replaced. If you don't find any, it still may need replacing, but may not. Clean up the boots and then check them out real well. My guess is the boots should be replaced. If it was mine, and your going to keep it a good while, replace bearing and boots. If your not going to keep it long, then maybe roll the dice

As for the alignment tool, google Merc alignment tool. All kinds will come back from 30 to higher. Bought mine from ebay, and made sure the ebayer had a high number of sales.

Edit: looks like I was typing a bit to long, Bondo has you covered
 

superfets

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Mar 6, 2017
Messages
139
Sounds good guys. I'll check all the above. Clean the bellows and look for cracks. If it all looks good I'll just do the impeller rebuild, grease everything and see how it runs/sounds. After the first weekend, and then for all the time it takes, I'll remove it and look at it again. Thanks guys. Just need to order an alignment tool from ebay.
 

superfets

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Mar 6, 2017
Messages
139
Did you say you were a millwright?
If so, I'm sure you have access to a lathe or know someone that does.
Here's a link from the Adults Only Section with dimensions for the alignment tool.

http://forums.iboats.com/filedata/fetch?id=7127118

I am. I work at a large steel mill and getting anything on and off site is hard. If you have an usually large lunch they can ask to check it. Security is tight. And to get the machine shop to do me a favor it isn't going to happen either. It's not worth the risk for anybody. It's not like back in the day. I'd be happy to pay 50 bucks for one.
 

Bondo

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Apr 17, 2002
Messages
71,082
If you have an usually large lunch they can ask to check it. Security is tight.

Ayuh,.... It would take a long skinny lunchbox for an alignment bar,....

Reminds me of the ole Johnny Cash song my Dad always liked,...
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
50,234
from the look of your u-joints, you had water in the bellows. change them.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
50,234

superfets

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Mar 6, 2017
Messages
139
your in luck. the tool is $25 on Amazon and a bit more on ebay, however the $32 on ebay has free shipping.

https://www.amazon.com/Engine-Alignm.../dp/B005CW9KVQ

https://www.amazon.com/Engine-Alignm.../dp/B00E3V8P72

http://www.ebay.com/bhp/mercruiser-alignment-tool


for a bit more money, you get the alignment bar, the seal drivers and a bunch of other tools

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Alignment-Ba...-/272590330827

Thanks Scott, that would be great if i were in the US. I'm in Canada. This is what it costs me:
1 - 24.99 for tool plus 67.99 shipping = 92.98 US
2 - This item does not ship to Selkirk, Canada.
3 - 32.47 for tool plus 83.47 shipping = 115.94 US
below #3 - 31.99 for tool plus 11.77 shipping and 6.72 import charges = 50.48 US = 67.96 CAD
Tool pack - 110.00 Bid ends in 11 hours, or buy it now at 125.00 plus 27.91 shipping plus 15.40 import charges = 168.31 US = 226.58 CAD.

I'm leaning towards trying to get in on the tool pack in 11 hours at 110.00, if not hopefully the buy it now is still available, It's say's it's the last one.

Question - Is there any tools missing in that pack? I'm going to need to do the bellows and bearings probably sooner then later. What would you do?

Thanks
 

Alumarine

Captain
Joined
Feb 22, 2005
Messages
3,738
You could get the tools shipped to a parcel holding company in Pembina, ND for I think a $5-$10 fee.
Then pick it up next time you or someone you know goes across the border.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
50,234
thats how I sell IFS crossmembers for 1947-1955 chevrolet trucks into canada. the buyer usually has someone on the US side and they drive it across.
 
Top