switch panel hook up?

[81 Checkmate]

Installed my stereo this past Sunday?.All worked fine the way I hooked it up, then last night I went to try it and battery was dead..completely dead.

Here is what I did?I have a switch on my panel that is marked Acc?so I wanted my stereo hooked to the switch?so I wired it directly to the switch . Turn key to run and flip the switch and the power light above the switch comes on and the stereo works.

Now here is where I messed up??.there is a main feed wire that feeds all the panel switches that is hooked up to the bottom terminal of the key switch?so when the key is turned to run all the switches work.

I wanted to have this panel live all the time, so I didn?t have to turn the key to run?so I moved the main feed wire to the top terminal of the key switch where the main red battery feed comes in?I was thinking this way the panel has power at all times, it worked that way, but drain the battery.

So now I hook up the battery charger and it reads zero and will not charge?so I switched the panel feed back to bottom terminal and as soon as I did the battery started charging. So obviously I cannot hook it up that way.

Question - How can I hook up the switch panel so it?s live all the time so I don?t have to turn the key to run to make the switches work?like the blower/ bilge/ lights/ ACC

Some Pic's
The big red wire is the battery feed on the key switch
The pink double wire with the blue crimp conector is the main panel wire on the key switch. The panel is dasiey chained together

 

[sam am I]

Re: switch panel hook up?

Well the hookup is easy but......must be something beside those 4 items(blower/ bilge/ lights/ ACC) that also get powered off that same wire. I assume the 4 switches were all "off" position on the evening, Sunday was it? of the death? And the battery still died? If so? This sorta implies(to me) that this moved wire is feeding more than 4 switches that were all in the "off" position. Right?

Ten ways to the Sun to do this and having the panel live all the time is fine and an ok idea but, thinking with the above issue and perhaps a few unknowns now, the easiest at this point would be to put it back the way it was and just wire the ACC switch to have power all the time.

If you go this route and once put back as was before, just take the ACC switche's present feed side wire off its post(you have a Voltage meter?), leaving the load side wire/s alone(if any). Once off(tape it off, whatever)then run a jumper from the Ig's "power all the time wire" (Battery wire) and connect it to the post that you just removed the wire from.

Now you'll know forsure with only one wire on the feed side to the ACC switch, nothing will get powered but whats' on the load side of that switch when the switch is "on"

Then wire the Stereo to the load side of that switch.

If the Stereo has two power wires, a "memory"(blue or yellow sometime I think) and a "switched"(orange or red I think) wires, connect the memory wire to the "power all the time wire" (Battery wire) and as before, the switched power wire to load side of the ACC switch.

 

[bruceb58]

Re: switch panel hook up?

Your voltage gauge is now probably on all the time. That will draw down your battery.

 

[81 Checkmate]

Re: switch panel hook up?

Thanks......Yea i switched it back the way is was. It must have some other thing hooked up that draws power at all times....and i think Bruce is right....Could be the AMP meter.

Ive had the battery hooked up for over a month now and it has always had power......So it is wired right.

I got ya...wire the ACC switch only and see what happens. What im trying to get away from is having to turn the key on to listen to the radio, becouse the gauges all come on.

Thanks ....ill let ya know how it works out.

 

[UncleWillie]

Re: switch panel hook up?

You have non-standard wiring.

Yes! The gauges should go OFF with the Key.

But The Blower, Nav lights, and Bilge Pump should NOT!
You need to run the Blower before even turning the key, and the Nav lights need to be ON at night, even when stopped.

All the switches should be powered with the Key OFF! The Gauges should Not!

 

[81 Checkmate]

Re: switch panel hook up?

You have non-standard wiring.

Yes! The gauges should go OFF with the Key.

But The Blower, Nav lights, and Bilge Pump should NOT!
You need to run the Blower before even turning the key, and the Nav lights need to be ON at night, even when stopped.

All the switches should be powered with the Key OFF! The Gauges should Not!

Yes early style BIA Color code with Ampmeter.

The thing is all the wires match the color code from engine to dash..but at the dash there is a plug and they changed some of the colors after the plug going to the gauges.

The boats starts and runs fine and the battery holds a charge.

So willy how should i wire the panel so it works like you say?

This is the BIA Color Code pic. This is how i did the gauges

View attachment 201405071604 wiring dia early style.pdf

 

[81 Checkmate]

Re: switch panel hook up?

So looking at the diagram.

Note 2 ...says acc fused panel may be conected at this point (Ampmeter)...not to exceed 35 amps

Would that be the same thing as hooking to the positive terminal on the key switch? Thats what i did and it drained the battery.

 

[UncleWillie]

Re: switch panel hook up?

Your logic is correct.

Let's back up!

The battery terminal has 4 wires connected in the photo.

The BIG RED would be the Battery 12 Supply. OK!
A small Pink/Purple wire goes to the horn button. OK!
There are two wire attached to one black LUG that I assumed you moved from the Small Red over to the BIG RED.
What do theses wire go to, Just the 4 Fuses to the switches ONLY! Are you Sure, you're SURE!!! ???

The small Red is assumed to be the ignition wire. ???
The YEL/RED is assumed to be the The Starter connection. ???

Do you have a Meter or a Test Light?
Remove the Black Lug with the Two Pink/Purple Wires from the BIG RED Connection.
With the Black lug floating in the air, Measure from it to the BiG RED Wire. 12v should NOT Be indicated.

As it is wire in the photo, are the gauges OFF or ON?
If you start the engine, will the Key shut it OFF? Be ready to Pull the safety lanyard if this check fails!

Lots of questions, I need the answers. I am 250 miles north of you and I am nearsighted! :lol:

 

[gm280]

Re: switch panel hook up?

If your meter is an AMP meter, that isn't your problem. If it is a volt meter, then yes that could be it (if both are wired properly that is). The AMP meter should only be active when voltage is flowing through it. A volt meter will read constantly and drain the battery if it is not switched. I have an AMP meter on my lawn mower and it only comes into play when the engine is running and it isn't switched and no dead battery ever. So it really depends on the type of meter and how it is wired. JMHO!

 

[81 Checkmate]

Re: switch panel hook up?

Far sighted for me, hard to see up under the dash with readers on??. Sucks getting old

Yes - Big red wire from amp meter located on terminal with orange wire from alternator
Yes ? small pink wire is going to horn?.and horn blows without the key on
No ? small red thin wire is the tach pos..so when the key is on the tach needle jumps up
The yellow red/dashed wire?ill have to trace that one? I think it went to the water temp gauge.
The gauges are off as it was hooked up in the photo.
Yes the key will shut motor off?..no safety lanyard.

Yes I have a multi meter.

The two with the black lug is the one I moved to the big red. I have it moved back to where the tach wire is connected and everything works with the key on.

Now I looked last night and the two with the black lug?..one wire goes to the panel and the other is going to my pressure gauge.

Found more wire diagrams last night. I have the early style amp meter

View attachment 201405080922 engine harness bia early style.pdfView attachment 201405080922 voltmeter early style.pdf

 

[81 Checkmate]

Re: switch panel hook up?

If your meter is an AMP meter, that isn't your problem. If it is a volt meter, then yes that could be it (if both are wired properly that is). The AMP meter should only be active when voltage is flowing through it. A volt meter will read constantly and drain the battery if it is not switched. I have an AMP meter on my lawn mower and it only comes into play when the engine is running and it isn't switched and no dead battery ever. So it really depends on the type of meter and how it is wired. JMHO!

It's not a volt meter........Amp Meter only.

 

[bruceb58]

Re: switch panel hook up?

It's not your amp meter that's the issue. It's all the other gauges that are powered up.

By the way, if I had your boat I would ditch the amp meter and put in a voltmeter.

 

[gm280]

Re: switch panel hook up?

It's not your amp meter that's the issue. It's all the other gauges that are powered up.

By the way, if I had your boat I would ditch the amp meter and put in a voltmeter.

I'll second that too. Not much use for a current/amp meter. A better meter is watching the voltage (which can equally show that the battery is charging) and know the supply voltage at a glance... BUT, don't just swap the meters out. The wiring for an amp meter will not work for a voltage meter. It will have to be rewired for that option.

 

[81 Checkmate]

Re: switch panel hook up?

Yea im not to keen to the amp meter either......Im gona get a new set a gauges this fall and install this winter.... About done with my resto and i want it to work for this summer with what i have. It's been along 4 yrs since this boat's been on the water. :laugh:

 

[UncleWillie]

Re: switch panel hook up?

Yes - Big red wire from amp meter located on terminal with orange wire from alternator
Yes – small pink wire is going to horn….and horn blows without the key on
No – small red thin wire is the tach pos..so when the key is on the tach needle jumps up
The small Thin RED wire goes to the TACH and NOWHERE else??? Are you Sure?

The yellow red/dashed wire…ill have to trace that one? I think it went to the water temp gauge.
And nothing goes to the stater. Improbable. Key start? or Turn Key and Press a separate starter button?
The Drawing shows YEL/RED going to the Starter Solenoid. Most Probable.

The gauges are off as it was hooked up in the photo.
Yes the key will shut motor off…..no safety lanyard.
The two with the black lug is the one I moved to the big red.
I have it moved back to where the tach wire is connected and everything works with the key on.
Did the Key shut it down as shown in the photo or after you moved it back?

Now I looked last night and the two with the black lug…..one wire goes to the panel and the other is going to my pressure gauge.
According to what was Stated Nothing goes to the ignition. Impossible.
I"ll guess it goes to the gauges and on to the Ignition.
You need to follow the wires to the ends, not just the beginnings. <---<<< !!!
The Panel wire goes to the 4 panel fuses and nowhere else? Sure?

Found more wire diagrams last night. I have the early style amp meter
Amp Meter is not an issue at all. Not related to this problem.

Good Answers, Keep up the good work. We'll get this one!

 

[UncleWillie]

Re: switch panel hook up?

And now that I have both halves of the drawing.... (Thanks!).....

The Purple to the tack also continues on to all the Gauges, the Alternator, the Ignition Coil, and the Choke.

The small red is a non-factory add on.

You need to separate the Two Purple wires on the Single BLACK LUG.
The Purple going to the Fuses moves to the BIG RED.
The Purple going to the Tach stays on the Small RED.

That should keep the switches alive with the key OFF. Just like the Horn!

 

[81 Checkmate]

Re: switch panel hook up?

Yes - Big red wire from amp meter located on terminal with orange wire from alternator
Yes ? small pink wire is going to horn?.and horn blows without the key on
No ? small red thin wire is the tach pos..so when the key is on the tach needle jumps up
The small Thin RED wire goes to the TACH and NOWHERE else??? Are you Sure? Yes only goes to Tach....

The yellow red/dashed wire?ill have to trace that one? I think it went to the water temp gauge.
And nothing goes to the stater. Improbable. Key start? or Turn Key and Press a separate starter button?
The Drawing shows YEL/RED going to the Starter Solenoid. Most Probable.
No separate starter button...Yes i think your right, going back to starter solenoid......

The gauges are off as it was hooked up in the photo.
Yes the key will shut motor off?..no safety lanyard.
The two with the black lug is the one I moved to the big red.
I have it moved back to where the tach wire is connected and everything works with the key on.
Did the Key shut it down as shown in the photo or after you moved it back? Can not truly answer this one, boat in garage not able to start it...but started it a couple weeks ago and yes key shuts it down....
Now I looked last night and the two with the black lug?..one wire goes to the panel and the other is going to my pressure gauge.
According to what was Stated Nothing goes to the ignition. Impossible.
I"ll guess it goes to the gauges and on to the Ignition.
You need to follow the wires to the ends, not just the beginnings. <---<<< !!!
The Panel wire goes to the 4 panel fuses and nowhere else? Sure? Yes... clairify....the two wires are the ones with a black end and with the blue splice connector in the 2nd pic.....one wire comes from fused switch panel and the other comes from the oil pressure gauge, both are spliced into the same black end. So when i hooked this to live all power the oil pressure gauge was on and drained the battery?
Found more wire diagrams last night. I have the early style amp meter
Amp Meter is not an issue at all. Not related to this problem.

Good Answers, Keep up the good work. We'll get this one!

Thanks for all the help willy...

 

[81 Checkmate]

Re: switch panel hook up?

And now that I have both halves of the drawing.... (Thanks!).....

The Purple to the tack also continues on to all the Gauges, the Alternator, the Ignition Coil, and the Choke.

The small red is a non-factory add on.

You need to separate the Two Purple wires on the Single BLACK LUG.
The Purple going to the Fuses moves to the BIG RED.
The Purple going to the Tach stays on the Small RED.

That should keep the switches alive with the key OFF. Just like the Horn!

Yes - small red is not factory...It's a auto meter tach from my old car that i never used...brand new and it works correct, i also checked it against my old dwell/tach meter.

Im not the origal owner so previous owner could have spliced things...ie the blue splice connector.

Ok so i will unsplice the two wires...leave the oil pessure wire where it's at, with the small red..... and move the fuse panel wire to big red wire conection.

Its my birthday today and i will not get to it tonight....ya know a few beers after work.....ill get to it over the weekend and ill let ya know

Thanks Willy for all the help.

 

[81 Checkmate]

Re: switch panel hook up?

ok split the wires and hooked them up the way you said.....Same thing happend. Got to looking and the wires are hard to trace it's tight space. But the feed wire going to the oil preesure gauge is not the one i thought. The one i thought goes to the electric choke....The oil pressure gauge feed is coming from the back of the fuse prong that is just below my bilge pump switch. so when the the panel is live its feeding the gauges also. It looks to be factory hook up also.

Now my question....Does this gauge hot wire have to come from a fuse....can i unplug the wire at the fuse and hook it direct to the the key switch? So when i turn the key on the gauges come on.

Thanks

 

[sam am I]

Re: switch panel hook up?

Was covered........Deleted.