Tachometer problem

dingbat

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 20, 2001
Messages
16,420
According to my mechanic, my tachometer is ~200 RPM off at low RPM. It was almost 300 rpm off before he adjusted it. He didn?t check the upper end that I?m aware of.

The charging system works well and the stator shows no signs of damage.
What would cause this? I have a line on a new tachometer but I want to exhaust all other possibilities before I spend the money for a new tachometer.
 

etracer68

Ensign
Joined
Oct 11, 2009
Messages
906
Re: Tachometer problem

I didnt know you could adjust a tach. I thought they worked off signals from the stator, through the Rec/Reg (gray wire). Do you know how he adjusted it? I know there is a way to by-pass the Rec/Reg to see if the Rec/Reg is bad.
 

countvlad

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jun 29, 2009
Messages
439
Re: Tachometer problem

I didnt know you could adjust one either. here it is ow to check for a faulty tach or rectifier:

Testing Tachometer With Water Cooled Regulator/Rectifier, by Joe Reeves

A quick check is to simply plug in a another new tachometer as a piece of test equipment. If the new tach works properly and the old tach didn't, obviously the old tach is faulty.... but usually boaters don't carry around a spare tach.

A faulty rectifier wouldn't damage the tachometer, the tachometer simply wouldn't work. This is due to the fact that the tachometer operates off of the charging system and the rectifier converts AC voltage to DC voltage, enabling the charging system. A faulty rectifier disables the charging system, and the tachometer simply doesn't register.

However.... those watercooled regulator/rectifiers that are used on the 35amp charging systems (and some others) bring into play a different type problem, and as you've probably found out, they are really a pain to troubleshoot via the proper procedure. There's an easier way.

The tachometer sending/receiving setup operates off of the gray wire at the tachometer. That same gray wire exists at the engine wiring harness which is connected to the engine electrical terminal strip. You'll see that there is a gray wire leading from the regulator/rectifier to that terminal strip, and that there is another gray wire attached to it. That other gray wire is the wire leading to the tachometer which is the one you're looking for.

Remove that gray wire that leads to the tachometer. Now, find the two (2) yellow wires leading from the stator to that terminal strip. Hopefully one of them is either yellow/gray or is connected to a yellow/gray wire at the terminal strip. If so, connect the gray wire you removed previously to that yellow/gray terminal. Start the engine and check the tachometers operation, and if the tachometer operates as it should, then the regulator/rectifier is faulty and will require replacing. If the tachometer is still faulty, replace the tachometer.

If neither of the yellow wires from the stator is yellow/gray, and neither is attached to a yellow/gray wire, then attach that gray tachometer wire to either yellow stator wire, then the other yellow wire, checking the tachometer operation on both connections.

I've found this method to be a quick and efficent way of finding out which component is faulty.... the tachometer or the regulator/rectifier. It sounds drawn out but really only takes a very short time to run through. If the water cooled regulator/rectifier proves to be faulty, don't put off replacing it as they have been known to catch on fire with disasterous consequences.
 

pass1

Recruit
Joined
Jul 13, 2011
Messages
1
Re: Tachometer problem

I got the same issue with a 1996 johnson 115hp v4 engine, is it the same method to check if the tach is bad??
Is there a way to check if I have signal at the back of the 8 wire plug on the back of the gauge and how?
 

emdsapmgr

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 9, 2005
Messages
11,551
Re: Tachometer problem

I had a Medallion adjustable analog tach years ago. Close testing of it indicated that the tach was off to some degree throughout it's entire operating range-despite being set on the correct pulse count. It would read high at some rpm's and low on others. I wound up adjusting the tach so that it would read closest at the upper rpm ranges. Figured it was not as important to know what the idle rpm was. Frustration finally set in and I purchased an OMC digital tach a year later. That resolved the problem.
 
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