All,
I wanted to say thank you to this community for all the knowledge you pay forward into the world. With your help, I have completed my 4.3GL-C VP Engine swap in my Four Winns. I took her on the maiden water test today and she performed well (as well as you can while staying under 2K RPM for break in).
I'm sure I'll have many more questions pop up in the future, but I thought I would pass along some tid-bits I ran into during my engine swap in case someone else needs to do the same:
I wanted to say thank you to this community for all the knowledge you pay forward into the world. With your help, I have completed my 4.3GL-C VP Engine swap in my Four Winns. I took her on the maiden water test today and she performed well (as well as you can while staying under 2K RPM for break in).
I'm sure I'll have many more questions pop up in the future, but I thought I would pass along some tid-bits I ran into during my engine swap in case someone else needs to do the same:
- I created a spreadsheet to track all my purchases and needs, and would not have been able to do this without it. Very recommended.
- I bought my reman longblock from Marineengines4less.com. Tim and his team were very patient with me and walked me through the purchase nicely. Recommended.
- With the engine, I purchased the circulation pump, 4bbl intake manifold, and gaskets. They installed the intake manifold, which was nice. A new circulation pump is very recommended.
- I needed a new carb because the previous owner had mucked with the original to the point where it would not pass a USCG inspection. Since I needed a new carb, I decided on a 4BBL for a few extra ponies. I landed on a 4BBL Volvo Penta that came from the 4.3LGPWTR engine (basically exactly what I now have).
- VP 3858333
- I replaced my belts on the engine with Gates belts. I never found where someone confirmed the replacement part numbers, but here they are in case someone wants them:
- VP 978547 = Gates 7480
- VP 3852464 = Gates 7455
- For spark plug wires, I went with United Motor Products 127, which are very, very nice marine grade wires. I also replaced the distributor cap and rotor with parts from United Motor Products.
- I recommend replacing the dip stick washers and O-rings. On my engine, there is a sealing washer, a crush washer, and two O-rings.
- Replacing your thermostat and O-Ring is recommended at this time.
- The PCV valve from VP has been discontinued. You can get a FRAM replacement:
- VP 3856884 = FV191
- I did have to use a carb adapter plate to go from the qudrajet intake manifold to the Holley square barrel. I used a Mr Gasket 1932.
- Some things I missed in my original order:
- The block does not come with a plug for the block's dipstick hole (on the starboard side of the block). I bought a 3/8" NAPA freeze plug to do this. SEP 3812185.
- When (if) you take the outdrive off, you might want to replace the O-ring around the water inlet. Sierra 18-2996 for me.
- For the most part, standard tools are all you really need. There are a few specialty tools you might find necessary though:
- A timing shunt (VP 885163) to set the timing.
- A timing light.
- Torque wrench
- An outdrive alignment tool. The one I bought off ebay from whoya2350 unfortunately doesn't seem to fit the VP coupler. Just FYI.
- A set of large allen sockets. These are necessary to remove many of the plugs that the new block came with (VP uses plugs with square ends). Something like the Harbor Freight 93193.
- You'll also need this for removing the oil filter attachment inlet.
- On my boat, it's impossible to replace the trim sending unit (from the outdrive) unless the engine is removed. I did manage to get mine replaced at this time.