the bad the good and the ugly *redux*

Renny_D

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Jun 29, 2008
Messages
79
It was suggested I repost here so - I posted this over in the bayliner forum;

I was working on the wiring of my boat yesterday - got that all done. I looked down and noticed the carpet was ripped by the port rear facing chair. On closer inspection I found a soft spot that I had not noticed before. On checking further it was a bad rot right through the deck. Started digging around and found a much larger spot of rot on the floor. Pulled the carpet out and cut out the section of deck. Found wet foam underneath the wood. Some one in the boats past had installed a rear enclosure that had snaps and clips on the floor. Those had allowed water through the wood and into the foam underneath. Not sure how long it had been collecting but their was a good bit in there. So that was the bad. After digging out most of the foam - man that stuff is still tough even when wet I was able to determine that the stringer on that side was completely encased and still looked solid that was the good. I drilled a few holes down low in the stringer and got dry wood :) Filled the holes back up with 5200. The ugly is now I have a big hole in the floor/deck. I'm heading out on vacation in a week so for now it will get a temp covering of plywood. I think I'll end up having to rip up the whole aft deck area. The Transom is showing a little crazing of the gell coat at some of the stress points so after the trip I will be drilling for cores just to make sure the transom isn't headed for the same place. I just installed smart tabs and the wood came out dry so that was good and the transom doesn't move. I am thinking that I may redo the transom when I do the floor, does anyone know how the cap is secured to the transom? There doesn't seem to be any sort of parting line between the two. Seems like the transom and splash well are all one piece. Also has anyone done a transom on my era bayliner cuddy? Seems like the transom is not flat except for the portion in the middle where the outboard attaches, otherwise it angles forward on both sides. This looks like an it would be hard to have a single piece of ply go all the way across the back of the boat? Any feedback to solve my curiosity and hopefully ease my mind if I end up having to do the transom? I know that I'm going to rip out all the foam and I'll glass both sides of the deck when I get to it. Probably replease the whole foam box arrangements for the seats as there is pretty limited storage as it is. Hopefully I wont' have to go into the restoration projects section but if I do I will be in good company.

Thanks
Renny
 

oops!

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Oct 18, 2007
Messages
12,932
Re: the bad the good and the ugly *redux*

the bayliners of that year were prone to rot.... i have one.......its not a cuddy... but the issues are the same.....

i think when you really get in there....youll be doing a lot of work.....a total refit.....

if i may suggest....buy your wood ....(all of it)...now.....that way the wood will be dry and you wont be waiting for a month......

the cap is fastend on to the boat. just under the rub rail.....
 

Renny_D

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Jun 29, 2008
Messages
79
Re: the bad the good and the ugly *redux*

Does anyone know how the transoms are put together on mid 80s boats. The stern is not flat on thes boats but rather there is a two foot but roughly two foot flat section in the middle and then another two foot sections on either side that angle forward. I was looking underneath the splashwell and it looks like these could be three piece transoms. There are two really high knees coming off the stringers to each side of the flat section. Is this possible? The glassed in area around the knees as really thick like it was definately designed to transfer the load and support a transom that does not run all the way to the stearn. I emailed bayliner but I haven't received anything back. I am really considering doing a POD. Also has anybody ever cut and removed just a portion of the cap? It would be a huge pain to remove the whole cap as that incorporates the front cabin and if I go the route of building a POD I'd be redesigning the stern part of the cap anyway. Any thoughts folks?

Thanks

Renny

PS.. OOPs I found the part line for the stearn part of the cap, It was prettly cleverly hidden.

Thanks again
 

Labman

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jun 30, 2008
Messages
117
Re: the bad the good and the ugly *redux*

I just watched John G. (Ship Shape T.V.) do just what you are asking about. He cut about a 5-6" section of the cap, removed it, did what he needed to the transom, replaced the cap, reinforced repair from under side,tapered joint on Both sides, POLYED repair, sanded and faired, not problem, just seemed a little labour intensive.
 
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