Faztbullet
Supreme Mariner
- Joined
- Mar 2, 2008
- Messages
- 15,929
I have a hand built moderately tuned V4 that has not been started since having new wiseco pistons and tuned in early 2018
Any thoughts on breakin and starting for the first time.
Edit
Start it up and let it idle( 4 hrs ) just like it says to do on the fact sheet.------You did bore and hone to those instructions too I hope.
I hope so Al not 100% on that though I left the piston and box with the machine shop. They said its perfect. Only one way to find out i suppose.
That is idle speed in gear in water not on muffs.
Thanks Fazt I will have to start her on muffs as i stay 75 mile away from the boat. Once she is fired up and no obvious leaks or bangs.Maximum of 4 or 5 mins on the muffs. I will take her up during the week and go through the brake in on the water. I tried to delet this post and add the comments on to my other post with the full list of what she has had done to her. Maybe a MOD can sort this out ??
I bought this motor as a replacement for my V4 that i had wanted to turn into a 140.
Now turning a V4 85 Crossflow into a 140 can be done but it take A LOT of machining and time, Hence I went and picked up the 140.
I was told it was a runner but once I arrived I done a compression test on her and it appeared this was never going to run properly. She showed 105,112,107 & 30 so a strip down was required.
Once I had removed the power head. This took a week! 4 stuck mounting bolt’s that had to be cross drilled to get the head off. Anyways on inspection the low compression was due to a snagged ring. I thought it would have to get a re-bore. So of to the machine shop for an estimate. To my surprise the shop told me a hone is all that is required. Bonus happy days.
Well since the engine was almost down to nothing, I might as well build the best one I can so the work started.
Lets start at the carbs and intakes then through to the exhaust.
Air silencer polished on the inside for better flow
Carbs (I managed to get hold of a set of 1 5/16th)
Jetted to one size up from standard (as advised from Racer) intake was polished and port matched to reeds.
Intake manifold
All casting marks removed and polished then port matched to carbs.
Leaf Plate Assembly
Lapped and Gas flowed Chris Carson Sport Reeds Fitted
Engine Lower Half
All casting marks removed Ports untouched only chamfered all round to save ring snag. Removed the *** that is left from when they machine the ports, Another Tip from Racer.
Crankshaft
New Seals top and bottom. Journal Checked and polished.
Pistons/Conrods/Rings
Fitted Wiseco pistons New Rings which were statically balanced each conrod and was lightened and balanced. The whole assembly was lightened to match the lightest from the 4.
Cylinder Heads
Lapped then Polished to prevent pre-detonation.
Exhaust
Bubble back cleaned but not to a shine.
Other new items
Starter, Starter Solenoid,Timer Base, Stator,CDI Units,Fuel Primer & Wiring Harness.
I built this engine over the winter of 2017-18
I have not attempted to start her yet. I had a tough time with pretty bad health (pneumonia and a min stroke)
So now comes the time to waken the wee beastie. I have always turned the motor by hand and always poured a little ie a teaspoon full of 2t down the cylinders.
So guys what is the best way to do this ?
Wiseco breakin is different from normal with heat cycles (Faztbullet can you give more info please.
Racer thanks for all the pointers whilst building her I need all the help I can get now its time to start her.
Any thoughts on breakin and starting for the first time.
Edit
Start it up and let it idle( 4 hrs ) just like it says to do on the fact sheet.------You did bore and hone to those instructions too I hope.
I hope so Al not 100% on that though I left the piston and box with the machine shop. They said its perfect. Only one way to find out i suppose.
That is idle speed in gear in water not on muffs.
Thanks Fazt I will have to start her on muffs as i stay 75 mile away from the boat. Once she is fired up and no obvious leaks or bangs.Maximum of 4 or 5 mins on the muffs. I will take her up during the week and go through the brake in on the water. I tried to delet this post and add the comments on to my other post with the full list of what she has had done to her. Maybe a MOD can sort this out ??
I bought this motor as a replacement for my V4 that i had wanted to turn into a 140.
Now turning a V4 85 Crossflow into a 140 can be done but it take A LOT of machining and time, Hence I went and picked up the 140.
I was told it was a runner but once I arrived I done a compression test on her and it appeared this was never going to run properly. She showed 105,112,107 & 30 so a strip down was required.
Once I had removed the power head. This took a week! 4 stuck mounting bolt’s that had to be cross drilled to get the head off. Anyways on inspection the low compression was due to a snagged ring. I thought it would have to get a re-bore. So of to the machine shop for an estimate. To my surprise the shop told me a hone is all that is required. Bonus happy days.
Well since the engine was almost down to nothing, I might as well build the best one I can so the work started.
Lets start at the carbs and intakes then through to the exhaust.
Air silencer polished on the inside for better flow
Carbs (I managed to get hold of a set of 1 5/16th)
Jetted to one size up from standard (as advised from Racer) intake was polished and port matched to reeds.
Intake manifold
All casting marks removed and polished then port matched to carbs.
Leaf Plate Assembly
Lapped and Gas flowed Chris Carson Sport Reeds Fitted
Engine Lower Half
All casting marks removed Ports untouched only chamfered all round to save ring snag. Removed the *** that is left from when they machine the ports, Another Tip from Racer.
Crankshaft
New Seals top and bottom. Journal Checked and polished.
Pistons/Conrods/Rings
Fitted Wiseco pistons New Rings which were statically balanced each conrod and was lightened and balanced. The whole assembly was lightened to match the lightest from the 4.
Cylinder Heads
Lapped then Polished to prevent pre-detonation.
Exhaust
Bubble back cleaned but not to a shine.
Other new items
Starter, Starter Solenoid,Timer Base, Stator,CDI Units,Fuel Primer & Wiring Harness.
I built this engine over the winter of 2017-18
I have not attempted to start her yet. I had a tough time with pretty bad health (pneumonia and a min stroke)
So now comes the time to waken the wee beastie. I have always turned the motor by hand and always poured a little ie a teaspoon full of 2t down the cylinders.
So guys what is the best way to do this ?
Wiseco breakin is different from normal with heat cycles (Faztbullet can you give more info please.
Racer thanks for all the pointers whilst building her I need all the help I can get now its time to start her.
Last edited by a moderator: