Threading lower shifter core cable through the sleeve

[dlogvine]

I'm replacing a lower shifter cable on Mercruiser 5.0 with Alpha one gen 2 outdrive. I used a snake line to route the sleeve and tried to let it sit with as few bends as possible. However when I tried to thread the core cable it gets stuck right after the transom plate when the sleeve is making the sharpest turn. If I untie the cable nut attaching the sleeve to the bellows and push the sleeve back by a couple inches I am able to push the core cable forward and then move the sleeve all the way in but then with the core cable in I'm not able to tie the sleeve to the bellows housing.
Any tricks to do it? Maybe using some kind of a crow foot wrench?

 

[Chris1956]

A service manual will explain exactly how to do it. They give step by step sequence.

 

[dlogvine]

A service manual will explain exactly how to do it. They give step by step sequence.

I dont have one, Seloc book is more of a joke than a real repair or service manual. I remember there was a link to the Mercruiser service manuals, but cant find it anywhere. If you know this site and could kindly post the link, I would greatly appreciate it.
However, we managed to complete the task. I figured out that in order to pass the kink of the jacket right after the transom plate, I could just push the core cable all the way to the kink, pull the jacket a little out by 2-3 inches, push the core all the way until the new kink place and after that push the sleeve forward. After that the core cable was getting without troubles. The problem was still in tying up the jacket holding nut to the bellows housing. This we managed to do by cutting a through hole in the special tool, that allowed us to pass a core cable through the socket.

 

[Chris1956]

Alpha Outdrives take a fair bit of maintenance as do Sterndrive engines. I would recommend a OEM Service manual.

The day your ignition fails, you will want a manual to isolate the problem.

 

[harringtondav]

I got lost in your narrative, but here is the process from my Merc manual #14:

Disconnect the shift cable from the shift plate and remove the plastic guide by loosening the two anchor screws.
Remove the brass threaded tube by loosening the lock nut.
Remove the lock wire and set screw from the shift slide at the rear of the bell housing.
Remove the trim senders bell housing hing pins and pull the bell housing forward. Tool 91-78310. After market tool =<$20.
Remove the pipe fitting cable retainer from the rear of the bell housing. This takes a special slotted deep well socket (like an O2 sensor socket). Tool #91-12037. If you have a deep well std socket you can pull the cable core forward and the socket may fit.
NOTE: This fitting is loctite sealed in very tight. I couldn't get an inch or metric socket to fit, so I used the special tool. I recommend using torch heat to soften the sealant. Mine was so tight the slotted socket opened and rounded the flats on the fitting. First class pain. I had to drill out the fitting. ...don't do this.
Pull the old cable through the transom. A member recommended using a piece of string or small cord as a fish line to pull the new cable back into the boat.
Reverse the disassembly process. You may have to readjust your shift plate shift points when finished.

While you're at it, I'd recommend installing a new cable bellows. You'll have gone through 100% of the pain of doing it later.

 

[dlogvine]

I know the process, and I followed it. The part of replacement that I was asking for, was threading the core cable back in. It was getting stuck right after the transom plate, where the jacket cable bends. I had no other problems with the installation.
The way I got around was untying the pipe fitting cable retainer, which was easily removed with the special tool I already had.
After that, I pulled the pipe fitting cable about 3 inches out, thread the core cable all the way to the locking point and then push the jacket cable back in all the way. This allowed the core cable to pass the bend and the rest of sliding core cable into the jacket was smooth.
The problem was then to tie the retainer, since this special socket was not designed to tie the retainer with the core cable in it. What we did was cutting one side of the tool with the grinder to allow the core cable to go through it.

 

[harringtondav]

I know the process, and I followed it. The part of replacement that I was asking for, was threading the core cable back in. It was getting stuck right after the transom plate, where the jacket cable bends. I had no other problems with the installation.
.

Are you replacing just the cable core? Merc recommends replacing both the core and case together. Bad, stuck lower cables often result from abrasion and wear. If you are sticking with just replacing the core, remove the pipe retainer again, pull the case/jacket out rearward (with the fish string), and insert the core full length. The assembled cable will fish and wind back up to the shift plate.

It seems the core is binding on the bent case/jacket's inside. I recall trying to push the core in separately after installing the new case. Reinstalling the full assembly solved the problem.

 

[dlogvine]

Are you replacing just the cable core? Merc recommends replacing both the core and case together. Bad, stuck lower cables often result from abrasion and wear. If you are sticking with just replacing the core, remove the pipe retainer again, pull the case/jacket out rearward (with the fish string), and insert the core full length. The assembled cable will fish and wind back up to the shift plate.

It seems the core is binding on the bent case/jacket's inside. I recall trying to push the core in separately after installing the new case. Reinstalling the full assembly solved the problem.

I'm replacing everything in the shifter cable assembly. The core cable was hitting the jacket on it bend right after the transom plate. There is no way to make the jacket straight without removing the engine, since the flywheel housing is getting in the way.
the problem with installing the jacket together with the core cable is the retaining nut on the jacket cable. The tool in it's original form works only on the jacket cable without the core inserted. That is why I had to grind a cut along the tool to allow it to slide over the core cable.

 

[harringtondav]

I'm replacing everything in the shifter cable assembly. The core cable was hitting the jacket on it bend right after the transom plate. There is no way to make the jacket straight without removing the engine, since the flywheel housing is getting in the way.
the problem with installing the jacket together with the core cable is the retaining nut on the jacket cable. The tool in it's original form works only on the jacket cable without the core inserted. That is why I had to grind a cut along the tool to allow it to slide over the core cable.

I guess I'm still not visualizing your issue. The threaded sleeve at the shift plate end threads out of the end of the cable case/jacket once the lock nut is loosened. Lock nut loosens with a std box or OE wrench, with the end of the case/jacket fitting held with a second wrench. The threaded sleeve comes out with the lock nut and barrel nut. The cable assy passes easily out the transom plate and back in. I've never used the fish string to pull it home. I had to stand on my head behind the engines and find it. But once I did it made the turns just fine. Getting the cable core thru the front threaded jacket fitting out of the boat has always been a trick for me since it wants to catch on the forward fitting. But it will eventually pass.

Then thread the assembled cable back into the boat.

I dunno, maybe you have a new style cable assy, but the 3-4 I've pulled/replaced worked fine as I've described.
How about a pic of what you're dealing with on the forward/shift plate end?