Throttle Cam for 80/1 Shift in the Tiller Handle

mm2humt

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1980/1 25 hp Mercury with the shift in the tiller handle
SN 6185615

I picked this up a few weeks back knowing it needed some work. Started digging into and found the tube assembly (aluminum shaft running the length of the handle that attaches to a pulley and the cables on the motor end and to the twist grip on the other) in the handle to be catching. While taking that apart it broke the aluminum just in front of the plastic pulley. The catching was because it had mostly broke/ripped already. I started investigating why that would possibly break. I couldn't find any reason why it should have broken there (burrs, bends, etc.). On the off chance it was caused in the handle, I started working that end. It was smooth considering it's age. That wasn't the problem. Went the other way then. I was doing the process of elimination when I finally got to the Throttle Cam. The throttle arm (to the butterfly valve) will get hung up part way through it's travel.

First thoughts were a burr or nick in the throttle cam, nope. Moved onto the butterfly valve arm. It moved very well. Checked the plastic bushing on the end of it to make sure it was turning, it turns smooth. No binding or sticking. Well, then it has to be something in the throttle cam pivot, it moves fine but... Took that off, it's straight and appears true but I did notice it rides in a slotted bushing that was set up so it would give it adjustment front to back (original PN 23-86968 supersede to 17764A 2 from what I can gather). I can't seem to find a "sweet spot" for it, it will get hung up at some point between idle and 3/4 of the way to WOT depending upon where it is set at.

So, my questions are these:
Is the bushing designed to be set and left alone or is it suppose to slide to allow full travel?

This bushing has a shoulder/lip on it that rides along an edge on the block side. This appears to be designed this way or is that shoulder/lip just "worn in" because of the age of the motor? I can't find a decent picture of the bushing to know one way or the other. If just worn in, then I should be able to adjust the slot in the bushing to whatever angle works best for the throttle cam after said shoulder is removed, right?

Finally, there is 2 different carb configurations for this motor, I have to verify which I have, but what is the difference in throttle cams between the 8799A 1 and 96096 PNs? Could that be my issue, wrong throttle cam on it? I'm curious if they have the same slope, same pivot point, etc..

I've been a long time lurker but couldn't find anything on this topic. If I missed it, post a link to it for me. Thanks!
 

mm2humt

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Only one I have at the moment is the broken tube assembly. I'll get some pics soon.
 

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mm2humt

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Some more pics of bushing and throttle cam
 

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flyingscott

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You need to make sure the 2 cables on correctly. A link and sync needs to be done thats what the bushing and washer are for. They are used to line up the crescent shaped cam on the carb. Before you do ANYTHING do a compression and spark test on the motor. If compression is bad that motor is pretty much a boat anchor. You need to get a manual a factory one is best a seloc is an OK substitute.
 

mm2humt

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I don't think we're on the same page, or maybe I'm not. The throttle cam and butterfly arm are the only two components hooked up right now and I can't get them to operate smoothly together (I have the control arm disconnected from the throttle cam and I'm working the throttle cam with my finger). I don't see how a link and sync will change how those two pieces work together. The only adjustment possible with those 2 components is via the slotted bushing. The butterfly valve by itself has very nice travel when actuated by hand. The throttle cam will move fine by itself. The failure occurs when those two must work together.

This should be a simple aha and I'm just not seeing it. As with any troubleshooting, you try and break it down to the simplest elements. Take small sections at a time in logical order. This is were I'm binding at. I'll see if I can somehow get a quick video.
 

flyingscott

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Ok when you move the cam manually are you over rotating the carb butterfly. Stop when the butterfly is at 90 deg and see if it still happens. Another thing is since the washers for the cam a slotted the cam may be to close to the roller and as it rotates may bind. That is where the link and sync comes in setting the cam is part of that.
 

mm2humt

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Having problems posting video. Hopefully link works. Sorry about poor quality.

Understand about 90 degrees on butterfly arm. Hopefully the vid shows. I know a couple times during it I went past the 90. I wanted to show how it was binding and how much force to get past it.

https://youtu.be/voiq5f8LAfs
 

flyingscott

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Put the linkages and the cables back on the motor and do the link and sync. That cam is adjustable.
 
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