Tight steering

Micropertus

Cadet
Joined
Mar 16, 2016
Messages
10
I have the same boat with the same issue. Did you replace the cable (or cables) yourself? It almost looks to me like the motor needs to be moved to slide the cable out of it and make that offset jog into the rear compartment of the boat! I tried looking on you tube to see if someone posted a video but didn't find one for our boat.
 

Bondo

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Apr 17, 2002
Messages
71,097
Ayuh,.... Welcome Aboard,..... The thread ya hy-jacked is 'bout 3 years old,.... I started this one for ya,...

Tell us more 'bout Yer boat, 'n We'll get ya some answers,....
 
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Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
Joined
Jan 12, 2013
Messages
13,822
If you're replacing the steering cable then go at the helm first, disassemble the rack and pinon or rotary helm and take the cable out. Then you have the ability to shove the cable forward as you pull it out of the tilt tube. Before you yank the old cable out be sure to tie some line onto the other end so you can drag the new cable back through.
 

444

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 16, 2010
Messages
704
My boat was a fight to get the cables out of the motor without removing it. I was removing the motor anyway so I got the cable started before moving the motor fully into place.
 

Old Ironmaker

Captain
Joined
Dec 28, 2015
Messages
3,050
I did replace my rack and pinion steering last year that lasted over 23 years without removing the motor. Every marina told me the motor must come off. I did it with some help by a knowledgeable pal. It was tough trying to make a 90 degree turn but by removing the carpet and making the hole bigger on the starboard side panel we did it. Carpeting covers much aluminum surgery. The old shaft would not come out, and because it was longer than the clearance without cutting it in 6" sections I would never get it out. I needed to soak it in anti seize (not WD 40) put a pipe wrench on it and tap it out with a hammer otherwise it would never come out.

A tip if you do DIY it, clean the sleeve that takes the shaft super clean clean. There was 23 years of old grease in there. There is also a fitting that you can buy for the new cable that makes it grease able at the rack if your new cable isn't. I didn't put one on because the steering now feels like it's fully hydraulic compared to before and didn't know they existed other wise I would have, I still can I believe. One finger steering now. I doubt I will outlive the new cable. A fishing partner upgraded to hydraulic on his boat and is disappointed after many $$ when he felt my steering, it is smoother than the hydraulic assist he bought.

Another tip is to use bolt cutters and cut the cable out in sections rather than pull the entire cable. And yes tie a good line to the last section of cable to help feed the new one. I also ran the new cable through a long section of ABS to help the next guy if there is one. If I ever need to run a new electrical cable from the helm I will run it through that piece of ABS. Then all I need to snake that wire through is use a good shop vac and suck the fish line through. A great trick I learned from a plumber when I ran a inline heat trace cable on a 35 foot water line for my water system to a cistern. He tied some tissue paper on the end of the fish line, great trick.
 
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Micropertus

Cadet
Joined
Mar 16, 2016
Messages
10
Well thank ya! I tell ya, these posts have been full of useful info and genuine people!
Anyway, just bought a 1987 procraft 1950 fish and ski with a 200hp merc. She sat idle for 2 years before I bought it. Steering was pretty much seized but with help from my brother, was able to work it free. It's now drivable, but there's still a rough spot when I turn completely to the port side. My brother is a car mechanic and we actually disconnected the 'bad' cable from under the helm and tried to back the other end out of the tilt tube. That's where we ran into a bind! The distance between the side of the motor where the cable enters the tilt tube and where the cable enters the rear compartment of the boat is shorter than the length of the rigid cable with the shaft sticking out of it. Unfortunately the tilt tube doesn't line up with the hole in the boat, there's like a 3"offset in the alignment which binds the shaft in the tube before I can fully pull it out. I can go take a pick and post it.
I'm going to see if I can get a season or 2 out of her before I need to replace the cables. Just trying to figure out if it's major surgery I'm looking at!
Thanks all!
 

Bondo

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Apr 17, 2002
Messages
71,097
Ayuh,..... On most outboards, the motor has to be lifted to remove the cables from the tilt tube,....
 
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