Hey guys, hoping someone can point me in the right direction...
I've got a 1993 Larson Hampton 220, with a Volvo Penta DP. Last season I started to have some intermittent tilt/trim issues where I would have to push the button a couple of times for it to work. Now there is zero response. This system doesn't seem to have standalone relays/solenoids, it appears to be all built in to two units. Wires from the throttle button feed into what I'll call Box 1 (see photos - the box with the lights on it). That is a sealed unit that also has wires labelled as "trim sender" and "trim override" going into it. When I would activate the throttle trim switches, the "trim up" and "trim down" lights would activate on Box 1, so I know the problem is not in the throttle switch...but, no sound of a relay clicking. Because that unit is completely sealed, there was no way for me to check voltages at Box 1.
Box 1 then feeds into Box 2, which is mounted onto the trim pump itself. One side of Box 2 has a heavy red wire and black wire, which I'm guessing are direct feed from the battery switch. The other side of Box 2 has: heavy green wire, and heavy blue wire (both of which feed to the pump itself); lighter-gauge green wire; lighter gauge blue wire; lighter gauge red wire. I could get ~12v between the heavy red and black wires, but not with any of the other wires, regardless of what position the throttle switch was in. I suspected Box 1 was bad, since the throttle switches were activating the lights on it, but no juice seemed to be getting through to Box 2.
That's when I started troubleshooting...but looks like I ended up causing more trouble...
I put a jumper straight from the negative battery terminal to the heavy blue wire going into the pump, and put another jumper straight from the heavy green wire going into the pump to the positive battery terminal (that green wire was still connected to Box 2 when I did this...couldn't get the screw out). Sparks flew, a small mark was left on the positive battery terminal, and my freshly-charged battery (that had been holding its charge) suddenly dropped to only about 9v. I charged it up again overnight, but now the lights on Box 1 no longer come on.
I'm guessing that if Box 1 wasn't fried before, it is now(!) I have 2 questions:
-Is there a different jumper configuration I should use to confirm the pump itself works (one involving less sparks)?
-It looks like I can still order Box 1 online, but it'll be a few hundred bucks. If I have to do that anyway, is there a newer/simpler generic trim control system you would recommend?
Thanks!
I've got a 1993 Larson Hampton 220, with a Volvo Penta DP. Last season I started to have some intermittent tilt/trim issues where I would have to push the button a couple of times for it to work. Now there is zero response. This system doesn't seem to have standalone relays/solenoids, it appears to be all built in to two units. Wires from the throttle button feed into what I'll call Box 1 (see photos - the box with the lights on it). That is a sealed unit that also has wires labelled as "trim sender" and "trim override" going into it. When I would activate the throttle trim switches, the "trim up" and "trim down" lights would activate on Box 1, so I know the problem is not in the throttle switch...but, no sound of a relay clicking. Because that unit is completely sealed, there was no way for me to check voltages at Box 1.
Box 1 then feeds into Box 2, which is mounted onto the trim pump itself. One side of Box 2 has a heavy red wire and black wire, which I'm guessing are direct feed from the battery switch. The other side of Box 2 has: heavy green wire, and heavy blue wire (both of which feed to the pump itself); lighter-gauge green wire; lighter gauge blue wire; lighter gauge red wire. I could get ~12v between the heavy red and black wires, but not with any of the other wires, regardless of what position the throttle switch was in. I suspected Box 1 was bad, since the throttle switches were activating the lights on it, but no juice seemed to be getting through to Box 2.
That's when I started troubleshooting...but looks like I ended up causing more trouble...
I put a jumper straight from the negative battery terminal to the heavy blue wire going into the pump, and put another jumper straight from the heavy green wire going into the pump to the positive battery terminal (that green wire was still connected to Box 2 when I did this...couldn't get the screw out). Sparks flew, a small mark was left on the positive battery terminal, and my freshly-charged battery (that had been holding its charge) suddenly dropped to only about 9v. I charged it up again overnight, but now the lights on Box 1 no longer come on.
I'm guessing that if Box 1 wasn't fried before, it is now(!) I have 2 questions:
-Is there a different jumper configuration I should use to confirm the pump itself works (one involving less sparks)?
-It looks like I can still order Box 1 online, but it'll be a few hundred bucks. If I have to do that anyway, is there a newer/simpler generic trim control system you would recommend?
Thanks!
