Timer base replacement 89 J-50

[ob15]

First of all, let me apologize for all the questions. I just want to make sure I do the right things. My Clymer manual doesn’t really get into this too much.<br /><br />1989 Johnson 50, Model No. J50TLCEC <br /><br />After figuring out the problem in my last post<br /> http://www.iboats.com/cgi-bin/ubb/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=28;t=028452#000000 <br />(thankfully it was just the prop hub) I mentioned I would start a post for the new problem I have.<br /><br />When I was running the boat with the new prop and figured out that it was just the prop hub, the motor made a strange noise. It happened after about a 30 minute cruise (mixed rpm’s) and another 1 hour idle cruise and another 15 minute cruise (mixed rpm’s). It sounded like a belt slipping and a motor without belts it was very strange. It was definitely coming from the top of the motor and after further investigation I believe the timer base had moved slightly or was bent/warped and was rubbing against the flywheel. I am going to get the 3 new pieces for the timer base and was just wondering if there is anything special I need to do or watch out for when replacing it. Is there something that causes this or is it just one of those things that happen? The flywheel has some small scratches in it from rubbing but only on the very bottom and it doesn't look bad. Would this be ok and should I smooth it down with a light sanding? If I need to, I could use the flywheel off my 80 Evinrude. It looks exactly the same. I will also need the alignment tool when I replace the electrics (charge & spark coils & power pack). Could anyone help me out with the part numbers (including the alignment tool)? I would like to call the Johnson dealer & give them the part numbers so I know I am getting the correct items and hopefully they are parts I can still get.<br /><br />I know that I will have to check and adjust the timing. Can I set the idle timing in my driveway (at least a rough setting) and then set the top speed timing with the boat on the trailer at the boat ramp? That would be the easiest and safest way and I would not feel comfortable running in the water trying to check the timing. What would be the lowest rpm that the timing is fully advanced (3500+/-)? I was also thinking about using a spark tester to set the idle timing so I won’t have to start the motor.<br /><br />One thing I would like to do is check the flywheel on the motor without the parts underneath it just to make sure its spinning correctly. Can I do this and use the starter to spin it? I still need a ½ drive torque wrench to torque the flywheel correctly. When installing the flywheel do you just put it on and torque it down or do you try to set it a little bit first with a rubber mallet.<br /><br />I hope all of the above makes sense & thanks again. If it wasn’t for this forum, I would be spending a lot of money at the John-Rude dealer. Well, at least a lot more money. They still get some of it.

 

[R.Johnson]

Re: Timer base replacement 89 J-50

Dealing with what came loose under the flywheel. That has to be the stator ring. As a guess, I would say the Stator ring hold-down screw's all backed out. These screw's have to be cleaned, primed, Loc-Tited, and torgued down when installing the ring. I am at a loss as to the alignment tool you are referring to. When torgueing down the flywheel, you will need a flywheel holding wrench. I have seen posts where they mention using a screw driver to jam the flywheel againt the starter gear. I really don't advise that. If you did not change the setting on the spark advance screw, you should still be in the ball park.

 

[rodbolt]

Re: Timer base replacement 89 J-50

hello<br /> the stator and timer base screws did have a tendancy to back off. loctite them with blue 242 or equivalent. the alignment tool is a standard gauge used on most all the magneto engines and engines using an under flywheel power pack. it sets the distane(airgap) between the coils and the flywheel. a flywheel holding tool is about 65 dollars from snap-on. a strap wrench is about 20 and will work for your application.<br /> to install the flywheel carefully clean all surfaces with a solvent such as alchohol or acetone. surfaces need to be oil free. then torque the nut to specs. you may ask your dealer to rent you the alignment tool. its not something you use a lot.

 

[Beck]

Re: Timer base replacement 89 J-50

Dave F.<br /><br />It just so happens I just ordered am OEM service<br />manual and a parts manual. Since your a diy I recommend them, they explain step by step. My seloc was no comparison, actually somewhat confusing.<br /><br />The alignment tool you speak of is "OMC Locating Ring, P/N 334994.<br /><br />I have the Johnson '89 48spl, I would think our engines the same.<br /><br />Beck

 

[R.Johnson]

Re: Timer base replacement 89 J-50

Your right about the locating ring, I was thinking another system.

 

[ob15]

Re: Timer base replacement 89 J-50

Thanks guys, I appreciate all your input. I orderd the parts yesterday & hopefully wiil get them by the weekend. I will ask the Johny Rude dealer if I can borrow/rent the tool.

 

[realboats]

Re: Timer base replacement 89 J-50

I'm getting ready to install a new timer base and used stator in my 110hp. It's widely recommended that loctite be used for the mounting bolts. <br /><br />Would there be any risk damaging the aluminum threads by the extreme holding power of loctite red, or do you all use blue only?<br /><br />I contantly think about corrosion when working on these engines. It seems like loctite is almost like an epoxy so I assume it does a good job of sealing outside air from the threads. Has anyone ever had a problem with corrosion using loctite?<br /><br />Thanks!

 

[rodbolt]

Re: Timer base replacement 89 J-50

wont hurt the threads at all. however with some of the red's like 571 the thread ,if smaller than 3/8ths may not let go if you have to remove them again. use the 242 and clean everything with a solvent like alchohol or the loq-qiuc primer. if the surfaces are oil free and the correct torque is used it will stay