Tips on pulling a Volvo Penta 5.7 GL?

[BrodyO]

Hi Everyone,

Boat is a 96 Larson 196 with a Volvo Penta 5.7GL

I had a starter bolt break inside the block at the end of last season. I'm going to plan on pulling the engine out to fix it properly. This will be the first time I've ever pulled an engine from a boat.

Any good tips?
Maybe some common items that get forgotten to disconnect?
Does the drive unit need to be removed?
Any really critical torque specs needed for reinstall?

Thank you

 

[cptbill]

Make sure you give your self enough room, on my Larson 330Cabrio I had 2 5.7gsi there was what I thought a lot of room to work with until it was time to replace the motors. What I found out was that it made life so mush easer to take the larger piece of stern deck off along with the engine hatch cover. I don't know how your engine compartment is set up but having enough room to work is, I think the, the most important thing. So any way I left the wiring on the engine and just unplugged the main harness at the engine, the batt. cables at the engine side, exhaust couplers, left the engine mounts on the engine and pulled the lag screws. Then took the out drives off(6 screws, shift cable, water intake hose, bellows) once the out drive is off there's not much left, oh don't forget power steering hoses. The point is I left as much stuff on the engine as I could and then cleaned, tested and replaced as necessary while the engine was on the stand. The hardest thing was the rear deck, it was just screws and sealant but it was a bear to maneuver myself and it was also the part that took the longest. Also do your self a favor and get a seloc manual if you don't have one

 

[Bondo]

Does the drive unit need to be removed?

Ayuh,...... That's the 1st thing to remove, 'n the last thing to go back on,.....

 

[BrodyO]

Ayuh,...... That's the 1st thing to remove, 'n the last thing to go back on,.....

I've just started doing some searching today. I don't have a good picture of what drive I have exactly but from an old video it is an SX

Is the SX one of the drives that the upper gear box needs to be removed? Or is it more involved?

Is there a re-alignment procedure for when it goes back together?

 

[Lou C]

No with the SX you remove the whole drive like a mercrusier
Yes when you reinstall the engine you must align the engine with an alignment tool

 

[BrodyO]

No with the SX you remove the whole drive like a mercrusier
Yes when you reinstall the engine you must align the engine with an alignment tool

Thank you. I've been learning a lot since yesterday. Just to confirm my type of drive is an SX-C1.

My question is now, do I have to take the inner case of the drive off to R&R the engine? Or just the part of the drive that contains the gearbox and drive shaft? From watching some videos, it seems like a pretty big headache to take the inner part off as well as you have to re-glue/seal those exhaust bellows etc.

Guessing I will get suggested that since I'm that far I should remove it anyways and throw a fresh gimbal bearing in it.

 

[BrodyO]

Also, I'm struggling to find the actual engine and transmission R&R workshop manual. I've been able to find the regular owners manual but not the manual with specific specs for pulling the engine.

Engine type: 57GL PNCD
Serial No. 4110134991

 

[Scott Danforth]

yes, the whole drive must come off

that is actually part of annual service, so if you have owned your boat for a bit, you should have had the drive off every year to inspect the u-joints, gimbal and bellows.

here is a link to view manuals on-line

http://boatinfo.no/lib/library.html

here is a link if you want a hard copy https://www.volvopenta.us/marineleis...handbooks.html

 

[BRICH1260]

I did mine last year, not that hard to do. Make sure of your lifting apparatus and its limits. Drive must be pulled. Pretty straight forward after that, you may want to label wires and cables and mark where they came from. While the engine is out is a good time to clean and maintain the bilge and inner transom assembly. The main thing is have a sound lifting device, you don't want anything to break while lifting out.

 

[BrodyO]

Thanks for the tips everyone. I got the engine and drive removed this weekend without much fuss. I'll give some notes if someone is looking at this in the future:

Do yourself a favor and remove the engine cover asap
I made a cart for my drive to sit on using a dolly from Harbor Freight and some 2x4's. I drained the drive oil first. There's a special non-tapered flat head driver for the drain.
Remember to take the gearbox cover off and disconnect the shift cable before trying to separate the drive.
On the engine, there are four motor mounts, 2 in the front and 2 in the rear.
Disconnect the fuel line that runs from the tank into the fuel bowl
Most of the wiring connections from the boat to the engine are in the rear of the engine, don't forget the starter wire power
I had to removed the exhaust manifolds before pulling. This was because I needed to make the engine more narrow.
I used a skid steer and chain to actually pull the engine. Hooked the chain to the pull loops adjacent from eachother on the heads.
We pulled the engine up a few inches to get them off the motor mount bolts, then we turned the engine 90 degrees so it would fit without removing the back seat.

 

[ChrisCraftFan]

Glad to hear it went well. I have this in my near future. Looking for a replacement 5.7 now. was wondering about how the rear mounts come off. I have not been able to "see" them. so once the out-drive is off just the two bolts on the back of engine? do i need to take care on adjustment back there? I just can't see back there very good.

 

[BrodyO]

Glad to hear it went well. I have this in my near future. Looking for a replacement 5.7 now. was wondering about how the rear mounts come off. I have not been able to "see" them. so once the out-drive is off just the two bolts on the back of engine? do i need to take care on adjustment back there? I just can't see back there very good.

They are two studs that come up from the boat similar to the front mounts. You will take them off in the motor cabin. They are a little difficult to see but they will be pretty close to the back wall. We were able to get an impact and extension in there to take them off.

As for alignment, all my motor mount studs have a jamnut that the motor mount sits on top of. I tried not to touch these at all so when I drop the engine back in it will be in the same spot as before but an alignment tool should still be used once it's all back together. The alignment bar is like $30 on eBay.