Tips on removing lower prop shaft for re-seal - SP-A outdrive

[Fishermark]

I bought a kit that has all the o-rings and seals to completely re-seal my outdrive. It is a 1990 SP-A. I already have the upper disassembled and am in the process of putting it back together with new bearings. That seems pretty straight forward.

I did not pressure test the drive before I disassembled it - but it looks like the lower seal around the prop shaft needs to be replaced. I have the two bolts out that holds the lower carrier in place. Any tips on pulling it off? The manual calls for a special tool - looks like a basic slide hammer. I read somewhere where someone had made a plate that you could use as a jack plate. Any ideas? I am afraid to use a slide hammer as it seems like it would strip out the threads.

 

[muc]

The slide hammer screws onto the big outside threads that the prop cone screws onto. They are pretty strong, don't think you have to worry about wrecking them. Don't use the small internal threads the center bolt screws into, they might strip out. I've done this job more than a few times on freshwater boats. The special tool is pretty heavy, but you don't have to hammer too hard. Might be able to use a 3 jaw puller on the end of your slide hammer and grab the prop cone with it?

 

[Fishermark]

Thanks MUC - It's funny - I didn't even think of the slide hammer screwing onto the larger thread for the cone. That makes much more sense. I was visualizing the typical slide hammer that would screw into the smaller hole.

 

[Fishermark]

Well... no luck so far. I found another post where someone had made a jack plate. I put together a plate PLUS have the slide hammer. I have hammered away to no avail! I have used some heat... but not sure how much to use. To this point I have only used propane. I have an oxy/acetylene torch, but am afraid to use it cause I don't want to overheat it.

Is this maybe just a case of needing to use a proverbial "bigger hammer?" I have a 5 lb slide hammer currently.

My next step will be taking it to a shop unless someone has a better idea? Anyone?

 

[muc]

Have you tried with just the slide hammer? That's usually enough.
If you bring it to a shop, they will use heat.
Propane torch isn't usually enough. Your trying to heat the case before you get too much heat in the bearing carrier and that's hard with propane. Mapp gas is a little hotter and sometimes is enough.
Ox/acetylene can be too much and I would only try that if you have a rosebud tip.
Air/acetylene is the one I use the most, the temp is between ox/acetylene and Mapp gas so it won't melt the aluminum but gets it hot fast enough.
You haven't used enough heat yet because I don't see any discoloration of the paint on the gear case. Give heat a chance. Sometimes it helps to heat it up and than use a couple of ice cubes to cool the bearing carrier and cause it to contract.

 

[billbayliner]

I have an old thread on here some where that shows the puller I made. Works better than Volvo specialty tool. Not my design, copied it from a friend. Works on the SP and DP drives bearing carriers

 

[Fishermark]

I think that is one of the posts I saw - the jack plate I have set up in the pic above is from that post. (I think!) I ended up taking it to a local shop. I just received a call that they were done. Haven't picked it up yet. Said it took five hours and a lot of acetylene to get it off and resealed!

 

[Fishermark]

Just a final update - talked to the mechanic - an "old salt" who has worked on a lot of older outdrives. (Just as a side note - this is the kind of mechanic you need to find if you have an older boat. Most shops will not work on older outdrives and outboards. Frankly, for good reason many times! It is good to find an independent shop with an old guy who has been around the block, so to speak.

Anyway, as you can see it took a LOT of heat. He also said the jack plate I had installed was actually very helpful to him. He had the bigger slide hammer than I had, but said the jack plate idea is what actually worked. (Along with the heat).

It is now back together and holding both pressure and vacuum.