Re: Tired of dead batteries....
McGyver,
After spending hours reading the posts on this forum related to batteries and scouring the internet for info on wiring and devices, I have come to the following findings:
1. Install new / or prove your batteries are good
(have auto parts store load test your batteries, replace with best marine
batts you can afford if they are weak, and make sure your batt types
match the use; dedicated starting vs deep cycle for trolling and
electronics, etc)
2. Connect your engine's alternator feed directly to the starting battery.
If you have the cash and the room, use two batteries. One dedicated
for starting your engine, the other for running all other 12v devices
(VHF, stereo, sounder, etc.)
3. Connect your engine's alternator feed to the trolling and/or electronics
battery through an integrator (Newmar BI-100 or sim device, wired
between your starting battery and your trolling battery will
automatically connect the batts together when it senses a
charging voltage from alt, it will also disconnect the batts from
each other when there is no charging voltage present / when
you are discharging the batteries during the use of electronics, this will
keep your starting battery from being discharged while stopped).
4. Install a smart onboard charger, wired to each battery separately
to use 110v power at home to recharge each battery according to
its unique need. Install an simple on-off marine battery switch
(Perko, Guest, etc) on the hot wire that feeds the integrator.
Switch it OFF just before charging batts at home with onboard charger.
Switch it back on after charging before using the boat.
If you place printed reminder at plug on boat where you power up
the onboard charger, you will likely remember. If you forget,
the onboard smart charger charges each battery the same or
the engine alt will not charge the trolling battery. Many say this is
not a great loss, but a little is a lot if it takes you to that last spot
and the fish are biting.
5. Install small LCD voltmeters to each battery so you can monitor
the voltage in / or going to each battery. They are small and cheap and
let you see exactly what's going on for each battery. By using the chart
below, you can see if each of the batteries is receiving a charge
and / or what degree of charge each batt is holding:
VOLTAGE % CHARGED STATUS
>14.6v Charging Overcharging; problem w/ charger
13.7-14.5v Charging Charging correctly
12.6v 100% charged Batt & charger is in good shape
12.4v 75% charged Time to lose 25% of charge is approx
1/2 time to lose 50% of charge (12.2v)
12.2v 50% charged Battery may not start engine
12.0v 25% charged Battery will not start engine
11.8v 0% charged Battery is 'dead'
6. Get in the habit of checking the voltmeters while using the boat.
Starting batt should not use / drop voltage when engine is stopped,
if isolated from electronics battery (house battery) by integrator.
7. If you have leaky boat and bilge pumps run / cycle on while stopped,
wire bilge pumps to house battery so they don't kill your starting battery.
8. Cover the tops of your batteries (if they are not in a fully enclosing
battery box) to prevent accidental shorting from gear stored near
your batteries.
9. Carry a 12v 'Start Stick' portable battery booster device to start your
engine and get home if problems arise. Modern two-stroke engines will
run without a battery after they are started.
10. Learn how to use the pull starter rope if your engine has one.
Its the McGyver way to save the day!
I suspect others will suggest refinements or overhauls to the previous points,
but they have worked well for me.
MikPhilips