Re: to Joe re: my new motor
Lynn... I'm going to repeat myself here so that there's nothing lost in the translation.<br />-------<br />"Lynn.... That is a 1971 50hp Evinrude, with Battery Capacitance Discharge ignition, and has a Hydro Electric Shift lower unit."<br />-------<br />It means that the person lied to you about the age of the engine, and that if you have a receipt stating that the engine is a 1980, there would be no hassle in getting your money back.<br /><br />A 1980 engine has a magneto sort of ignition system which is pretty well fool proof. That 1971 engine has a very expensive powerpack (Battery Capacitance Discharge Ignition System) that must be powered by a (at least) 70amp hour battery in execellent condition. Running the engine with a faulty battery would damage that powerpack.<br /><br />A 1980 engine has a manual shift type lower unit which is excellent. That 1971 engine has a lower unit which has the most complex shifting arrangement ever devised (Hydro Electro Shift). The following might shed some light on the shifting system.<br />--------------<br />(Hydro Electric Shift)<br /><br />The shifting setup of the lower unit is what's called a "Hydro Electric Shift", which is quite complex consisting of voltage being applied to solenoids in the lower unit which in turn change oil passages via a oil pump that supplies various pressure on a spring loaded shifter dog. The wires leading to the lower unit (at the powerhead) are "Green" and "Blue". The engine must be running or cranking over in order to shift out of forward gear.<br /> <br />You CAN NOT use HI VIS lube in that lower unit. You MUST USE what OMC calls "Preminum Blend" lube, commonly called "Type C". (A thinner lube) <br /><br />In neutral, you need 12v to the "Green" wire. <br />In reverse, you need 12v to both wires, the "Green" one and the "Blue" one. <br />In forward, there should be no voltage to either wire. (The spring loaded shifter dog forces the unit into forward gear) <br /><br />To check the lower unit for proper shifting to make sure you have no trouble there, remove the spark plugs to avoid problems and to allow a higher cranking speed. <br /><br />This next step eliminates the actual shift switch in case problems may exist there.... Disconnect the blue & green wires at the knife connectors (the rubber insulated boots) leading to the lower unit at the powerhead, then using jumpers, take voltage direct from the starter solenoid to apply voltage to the "Green" wire for neutral, then both wires 'Green" & "Blue" for reverse (Remember the engine must be cranking over in order to shift).<br /> <br />With no voltage applied, the unit should be in forward. No need for a ground jumper... the lower unit's already grounded. You may crank the engine with the key switch or by energizing the starter solenoid with a jumper wire.
