Toilett resetting

TexomaAv8r

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Sep 15, 2004
Messages
329
I am beginning a bathroom remodel. I will be adding another layer of 3/4" sub floor and understand I will have to replace and raise the toilett flange to accomodate this. I would also like to change the allignment of the toilett by 90 degrees. Same location just facing another direction, so the door no longer bangs the knees of anyone using it :).

What are the issues I will be confronting with this?

Will I need an offset flange?

Are there measurements from the wall I need to know as a standard?

I will be resuing the existing toilett, unless I break it as is routine for me.

Pier and beem home from 1940, appears to have been at least 2 previous bathroom remodels at least.
 

ndemge

Commander
Joined
Jul 15, 2002
Messages
2,644
Re: Toilett resetting

I just re-did my bathroom.... I kept the toilet in the same spot, but had to raise it up to accomodate backerboard/tile.

Hopefully you have the same as I did... For the 4" pipe that goes up through the floor, I cut it off a few inches lower, put in a coupler, new short piece of 4" pvc to get up to new floor height, dry fit everything before you glue.
 

stevieray

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Jul 18, 2006
Messages
1,135
Re: Toilett resetting

12" from wall to center of drain is std for toilets. You may be able to just add another wax seal ring to accomodate the new floor height - depends on what's there now.
 

Paul Moir

Admiral
Joined
Nov 5, 2002
Messages
6,847
Re: Toilett resetting

If you're just rotating it right over the drain (12" centre off the finished wall like stevieray said) you might be able to get away with a closet flange extension (google for pictures). These let you go up a ways to accommodate a new floor, but they also reset the flange bolts so you can rotate 90 degrees. This would be a good solution if you're into an old lead or lead/cast iron flange since you wouldn't have to deal with it at all.

Another way is with the two wax gaskets, plus run new anchor bolts into the floor at 90 degrees (the kind with a wood thread on one end and a machine thread on the other). You might need to drill out the flange for them, etc, depending on what you're into. If the floor is somewhat rotted around the flange this will not work out.

If you've got to move it though, I expect you'll find it's easiest to cut way back to the iron and redo it in plastic reattaching to the iron with an MJ or whatever your code calls for. Probably the Americans here can help since we only do ABS (All Black Stuff) up here.
 
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