** Tons of smoke on Johnson 225 **

scottsnyder

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May 3, 2005
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17
I just bought a boat that has a 1998 Johnson 225 carb'd 2 stoke engine on it.... The VRO pump has been disabled, and it runs on 50:1 premix fuel. I did have some troubles getting fuel to the motor, and I have replaced the pump ball, and the the fuel hose that goes from the ball into the motor. I have also replaced the Racor filter, and when doing so did not notice anything unusual. It is tuff to get the motor started, and when it does start, it seems to give off tons of smoke, but it seems to sound normal. It certainly seems to me to be more smoke than there would be under normal conditions. I am a novice, and dont know too much about doing work on engines. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
 

Cricket Too

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May 14, 2003
Messages
1,732
Re: ** Tons of smoke on Johnson 225 **

Welocme to the post newto225.....I have twin 200's and they smoke like a chimney, especially when they are first started, these big carbed engines are dirty and smelly but they are great. I wouldn't worry about it's probably smoking normally, if your VRO was still hooked up I would say possibly double oiling, that's what i thought when I first got mine, but since you are mixing 50:1 you know you have the correct amount of oil in the mixture.<br /><br />Try this starting procedure:<br /><br />Pump the primer bulb until it's hard, then turn the ignition on and push the key in for 6-10 seconds, then with key still pushed in turn to start, if it falters a little just bump the key in a couple of times to keep it going. Do not use the fast idle lever, leave it in neutral and it should start no problem with the Quickstart system.
 

dajohnson53

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Apr 28, 2004
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1,627
Re: ** Tons of smoke on Johnson 225 **

RE: the smoke - without seeing your engine, it's hard to say if its normal or not, but big 2 strokes do put out a lot of smoke. You'll also probably notice a lot of messy oily "drool" on the leg and in the water. This is why the trend is toward high tech, low polluting 2 strokes and 4 strokes (downside: $$)<br /><br />My experience: the engine always smokes A LOT when first started. Tends to smoke less when warm This is even more noticable in the driveway vs. in the water.<br /><br />Some say that synthetic oils or even "higher quality" conventional oils will smoke less. I personally haven't noticed a difference.<br /><br />As for starting. Try this. It is based on the ritual that I've fallen into with my Johnson V6- it's older than yours, but probably similar carburetor and ignition technology.<br /><br />It may seem condescending, but believe me, I've forgotten every single step at one time or another!<br /><br />Make sure tank has fuel and air vent is open, and any fuel line valves are open.<br /><br />Pump bulb to firm. This fills the carburetor bowls.<br /><br />Double check "safety lanyard".<br /><br />Lift cold start lever full up.<br /><br />Turn key to on, but do not start.<br /><br />Push key in and hold in for FULL count of 8 SECONDS (not a fast count to 8!). This primes the cylinders - moves fuel from the carb bowls to the cylinders. It is not a choke, but is used similar to a choke for cold starting. I don't know if it's true, but I was told (and it works great for my engine), that it just takes a while to prime these big V6 engines, gravity and distances being what they are. This was the key step for me, which took a while to figure out. I'm fairly impatient and really wasn't holding it in long enough. If I do 4-6 seconds, it just doesn't work. I haven't flooded it yet by holding it in longer than 8-10 seconds, but that may be possible too.<br /><br />Start engine. "bump" key to give a little prime if necessary to keep running. This is usually necessary, so be aware and maybe even anticipate and bump a little here and there during the first 10 -20 seconds as a preventative measure. Necessary for first 1/2 to 1 minute only. <br /><br />Lower cold start arm as appropriate as idle evens out. <br /><br />Take care to avoid racing if on the hose vs. in the water. It will tend to race and idle high (+200 rpm at low idle) when on the hose compared to in the water - due to the pressure of the water against the exhaust (which comes out the prop).<br /><br />Let us know if this helps.<br /><br />If it stalls and you have to re-start, go through the procedure again, maybe priming for a tad less. I tend to do another 8 seconds, and haven't had flooding problems.<br /><br />If I follow this procedure
 

angus63

Captain
Joined
May 20, 2002
Messages
3,726
Re: ** Tons of smoke on Johnson 225 **

If fuel oil mix was sitting in all 6 carbs for a while, the fuel may evaporate leaving a slug of oil in each when you start up cold after a long sit. If after a long run on plane you still have heavy smoke, post back and we'll go from there!!<br />Good luck
 

scottsnyder

Cadet
Joined
May 3, 2005
Messages
17
Re: ** Tons of smoke on Johnson 225 **

Thanks for the great info! From what you guys are saying, the smoke is probably normal, and will likely diminish as the engine warms up... I guess I will just get used to it.<br /><br />Thanks for the info on the starting procedures... I figured that there was some sort of 'ritual' that i should be using, and now I have some ideas.<br /><br />D. - I dont think I know what the "Cold Start Lever" is, what it looks like, or where it is located???
 

dajohnson53

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Apr 28, 2004
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1,627
Re: ** Tons of smoke on Johnson 225 **

Originally posted by newto225johnsonoutboard:<br /> D. - I dont think I know what the "Cold Start Lever" is, what it looks like, or where it is located???
Do you have a Johnson/Evinrude control or a generic type? If you're unsure, tell us what it looks like.<br /><br />If it's a Johnson/Evinrude control, it has a main shift/throttle lever and a smaller one as well. The smaller one, normally in the full down position, can be raised only when the main lever's in neutral. It increases the idle speed while the engine's in neutral, usually needed for cold starts only.
 

Cricket Too

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May 14, 2003
Messages
1,732
Re: ** Tons of smoke on Johnson 225 **

The newer binnacle controls, don't have a separate cold start lever, there is usually a button that you press to disengage the main control lever and then use the main throttle control as the warm up lever, sometimes they pull/pop out towards you and that is how they become the cold start lever. I would try starting without using the cold start (fast idle) lever, if you follow the starting procedure up top, you should be able to get it started no problem in neutral. The Quickstart system adjusts the timing automatically for a cold start, which is basically what the cold start lever does. If your Quickstart system is working properly and your carbs are in good shape you should be able to just prime for 10 seconds and then turn to start and it should crank for about 2 or 3 seconds and then kick right over and idle smooth, although you may have to bump the primer a couple of times. I have always been weary of starting a motor and instantly reving it up to 3000+ RPM's, neutral.
 
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