Re: Trailer Lights.
My opinion is that it is a waste of time to run seperate grounds. You basically have doubled the complexity of your trailer wiring so when something doesn't work the next time you have two places to check instead of one. In over 30 years of boating in saltwater I have never had a lighting problem because I make sure my lights are mouted with clean grounds and the ground wire from the connector is mounted to a clean ground and then painted over or sealed to keep water out.
Take off each light and sand to bare metal and remount the light. Easier than running the extra ground wire and better in the long run.
To each his own, but using the frame as a ground, you are relying on the trailer connector, the ring connector at the frame in front, the connection between the ring connector and the frame, the connection between the frame and the light, and any connections between the frame pieces if it is a bolted together trailer. Also, in the case of a light unit with a separated ground wire you have another ring connector. You ask me, that is a lot of connections and a lot more places to check than a single wire that runs all the way to the light. There is potential for each of those connections to cause problems.
Running dedicated ground, I rely on the trailer connector, and 2 crimp connectors. One at the front, and one at the light as the lights I use have a separate ground wire for the unit.The crimp connectors with the heat shrink sleeve have been 100% reliable for me in all applications (Boat trailers, utility trailers, equipment trailer, and snowmobile trailers running on salted roads included).
Until I decided to run dedicated grounds, I used to have problems with dim lights or lights not working, etc. It was a relatively common occurrence. These problems were always traced to the ground. Since running dedicated grounds, I have not had one problem in the last 15 years or so since I converted them that was related to a ground issue. I'll go with my experience and run the dedicated ground.