Re: Trailer Rust Question
This is exactly what I am talking about. So it's as easy as using a jack/jack stand and unbolting it?
In the case of my trailer, I needed two jack stands. Where the tounge meets the trailer and the main beams of the trailer that go back toward the wheels form a Y, I had to support each of the two legs of the Y with a seperate jack stand. I chocked the wheels and then used the tounge jack to lift the front of the trailer up high, positioned the jack stands on plywood platforms, then lowered the trailer so the front of the trailer was being supported by the jack stands rather than the tounge jack.
Whatever you do, make sure you are satisified you have enough support in the right places before you remove the tounge and don't get underneath anything that could fall and pin you.
CRITICAL: Before you unbolt the toung, you MUST remove the wire harness that runs through the tounge. Otherwise you'll tear up the harness. What I did was that I cut the wires right where they come out of the toung and fork to go down each main beam. Then I installed "bullet" connectors on each wire so I could easily put them back together.
Then I attached a length of small diameter rope to the wire harness right where I cut it and pulled it through the tounge, leaving the rope in place so I could later use it it to pull the wire back through the toung. I'm a neatness freak and that semed the easiest way to make sure the harness, wires, and plug didn't get full of paint.
Then I took the winch upright off and then CAREFULLY unbolted and removed the tounge, being very careful to never get into a position directly underneath the boat or trailer where the boat could fall on top of me and pin me. I also had help from my brother in law, when it comes to working on stuff that's on jack stands I'm careful as all getout.
Grouse