Transom chop-job reversal

[fourgotten]

So some PO of my '67 Glaspar Marathon decided that a Mercury Mark 58A would be a great motor for the boat... unfortunately, they didn't bother to spend the time and money to find and buy the 5" extension for the motor and opted to just cut down the transom about 5 inches.

DOH!

Well, I've picked up an Evinrude that's got a longer shaft and am looking to replace the missing transom section.

I had a few ideas on this and was hoping for some advice:

1.) Gouge out wood for a few inches below the current transom top, put some steel bolts in the remaining wood, cover with penetrating epoxy. Glass up the rest so that it's level with the original height, and then fill with Seacast.


2.) Cut new wood to the right size, set it in place, glass over the top and add a couple of sheets of stainless steel through which to mount the new motor (Mercury had transom clamps, but the Evinrude appears to require that it be bolted through).

3.) Same as 2 except use Seacast instead of wood.

Would it even BE a good idea to get some stainless sheet and bolt through that (using silicon calking between that and the fiberglass, of course)?

Thanks for any advice!

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: Transom chop-job reversal

easier and cheaper, if the existing transom is in good shape, is to use a jack plate. i made mine. cost total $60.00

 

[jcsercsa]

Re: Transom chop-job reversal

So some PO of my '67 Glaspar Marathon decided that a Mercury Mark 58A would be a great motor for the boat... unfortunately, they didn't bother to spend the time and money to find and buy the 5" extension for the motor and opted to just cut down the transom about 5 inches.

DOH!

Well, I've picked up an Evinrude that's got a longer shaft and am looking to replace the missing transom section.

I had a few ideas on this and was hoping for some advice:

1.) Gouge out wood for a few inches below the current transom top, put some steel bolts in the remaining wood, cover with penetrating epoxy. Glass up the rest so that it's level with the original height, and then fill with Seacast.


2.) Cut new wood to the right size, set it in place, glass over the top and add a couple of sheets of stainless steel through which to mount the new motor (Mercury had transom clamps, but the Evinrude appears to require that it be bolted through).

3.) Same as 2 except use Seacast instead of wood.

Would it even BE a good idea to get some stainless sheet and bolt through that (using silicon calking between that and the fiberglass, of course)?

Thanks for any advice!

Frist of all welcome , you will find some really great guys here , I have learned a hole lot from !!! with that being said !!!
1 ] I wouldnt think will last if it does work !!!
2 ] get it done right new wood or number 3 the seacast
On 1 if you get out there and hit some waves or some ruff water , I really would hate to see you lose that motor !!! and who ever else is with yea !!! just my thoughts , and again welcome the experts will be here soon !! lol John

 

[fourgotten]

Re: Transom chop-job reversal

easier and cheaper, if the existing transom is in good shape, is to use a jack plate. i made mine. cost total $60.00

You know... although I definitely am going to rebuild the transom, I think that I kinda like the jack plate idea... it would make sure that my transom wouldn't have to bear the majority of the power burden. Also would have the added plus of putting the motor back from the boat a little which I have read has handling benefits and keep me from having to drill multiple holes in my transom should I change motors later.

Thanks!