Transom cracks

[jpormen]

I am posting this for a family member. He used his pontoon all last summer with cracked welds on the transom. It looks like the welds are non structure and the metal is just used to fill the gap that would be there and to help with splashing. We are just looking for advice on if we should have the welds fixed or if they are fine the way it is.

 

[gm280]

My take on this. If they are cracked, then they were supporting something. Parts without any stress applied just don't crack for no reason. I would most certainly have them welded back and maybe even beefed up as well. But that is just my $0.02 cents worth. JMHO

 

[HotTommy]

I'm pretty much in agreement with gm280. The fact that those pieces cracked indicates something has moved from its original position. So if those pieces were not supporting structures, then whatever is the supporting structure is moving (presumably under load). Just welding those pieces back may not solve the root problem, but the root problem needs to be found and fixed.

 

[ahicks]

Might be time to put a strait edge across the rear cross member to see if it might be sagging a bit. If it is that doesn't mean you're overpowering though. The boat I'm working on had something similar going on. It's rated for 120hp, and has never had anything but a 40 on it.

 

[jpormen]

Might be time to put a strait edge across the rear cross member to see if it might be sagging a bit. If it is that doesn't mean you're overpowering though. The boat I'm working on had something similar going on. It's rated for 120hp, and has never had anything but a 40 on it.

Upon further investigating, the rear cross member is sagging. Any advice on repairing it?

 

[HotTommy]

On my old boat, the cross members were Z and I shaped aluminum pieces about 8' long. When I replaced the engine pod with a stronger one to support the heavier engine I wanted to mount, I located C shaped aluminum beams of the same length and height as the Z and I pieces. I removed the trim pieces on the sides of the boat to access the space between the bottom of the deck and the top of the logs. I slid several of the C beams in place and attached them to the logs and deck with stainless screws and lock nuts. Perhaps you can add some additional crossbeams much as I did, and replace the bent one if it appears to need it.

 

[ahicks]

I turned the original upside down and reinstalled it, then added another a little further to the rear to reduce the leverage the engine pod had on it.

I just did a Google search for aluminum C channel to find a source for it (2"x 1.5"x .25 in my case). Had several choices, and ordered it from an outfit in Toledo that had the shipment on my doorstep 3 days later. It was not cheap, but I felt it's been done right!