Transom out of 2 3/4" pieces of plywood.

thrillhouse700

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So the manual says that my engine/drive combination needs a transom that is 2 - 2 1/4" so if I laminate 2 pieces of 3/4" ply that gives me approx 1.4" seeing as how 3/4" ply is only really .7004 or something. So adding the 1/4" from the hull thickness I get almost 2" of transom. What should I add to the transom to make the thickness correct? CSM? MAT? or another piece of wood?

Also when laminating the transom Ive heard of people using PL, are you troweling it on and weighing down both pieces? Or laying multiple beads? I want to try and avoid any air gaps if possible.

Should I fillet the corners of the hull or lay a strip of mat before I attach the transom with pl?

I have been going through a bunch of threads, got a lot of info from OOps' thread. A lot of other transom threads I have been reading are outdrives.
 

VeroWing

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Re: Transom out of 2 3/4" pieces of plywood.

I'm not sure if you have existing gelcoated fiberglass exterior in place, but if so, are you taking this thickness into consideration? You can also just use 1/2" instead of 3/4" and get closer to your mark. Add a layer of mat in between two of the layers and fiberglass the finished wood with another layer of fiberglass, and you should be right at 2 1/4".

You should also use epoxy resin for all your wetting in, etc.. It is superior to any other type resins.

Below is link to transom rebuild I am almost finished with on my 22' Grady Seafarer. Mike

http://forums.bateau2.com/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=19949

Here is a link with some very good info on rebuilding your transom, stringers, etc.. I have no affiliation with this place, but I did get plenty of info and help from them on my rebuild.

http://boatbuildercentral.com/howto/repair.php
 

Lion hunter

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Re: Transom out of 2 3/4" pieces of plywood.

Nothing wrong with joining 2 pieces of plywood together (that's how it's made anyway). One thing to consider if possible is to create opposing grains between the 2 sheets. This is what gives plywood its strength.
 

emilime75

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Re: Transom out of 2 3/4" pieces of plywood.

One thing to consider if possible is to create opposing grains between the 2 sheets. This is what gives plywood its strength.

Plywood is already made that way. It's plies are laid in opposing grain direction, each one perpendicular to the next. The only reason plywood has more strength in one direction is because they are made up of an odd number of plies, causing it to have one extra layer with the grain running across it's length instead of it's width. Something else to consider is the possibility of movement. While plywood is quite stable due to it's perpendicular grain construction and the glue used to make it, it still moves(expands and contracts) somewhat depending on temperature and humidity. Running the sheets of plywood in 2 different directions and gluing them together could be troublesome because they could move in different directions and the bond between them could be jeopardized...but, even having stated that, it would most likely be fine due to the "minimum" movement of plywood. I would run the layers in the same direction, with the face grain running across the transom,left to right.
 

Mark_VTfisherman

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Re: Transom out of 2 3/4" pieces of plywood.

You didn't mention if it were fiberglass or aluminum, but either way, if you wind up needing a little extra thickness, a small plate of aluminum can gain you a little. But building up the transom insert out of 2 3/4" and one 1/2" sheet usually does the trick. I used 1-1/2" thick CCA planks for my MFG plus 1/4" and 1/8" aluminum plate inside and out and it came out just right. That was on my boat...your mileage may vary.

Secondly, I like to mechanically fasten the plywood together with corrosion resistant screws (i.e. NOT drywall screws) and use either a polyurethane adhesive caulking or fiberglass (polyester) resin to create the bond between the sheets. You can epoxy it too.

The problem with PL or construction adhesive is that it can crumble over time, whereas the other methods won't, and construction adhesive isn't always appreciative of moisture. Also, using the screws (6 or 8 inches on center) not only creates a mechanical sheer, but properly installed, they can eliminate the need for heroic methods to clamp the plywood together.

I would keep 'em all running left-to-right and just deal with the waste. Also seal up the edge grain with polyester or epoxy or at the very least oil-based paint. Taking care of the edges can double the life of plywood. Ask a sign maker :)

Hope this helps.
 

JimbC

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lowkee

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Re: Transom out of 2 3/4" pieces of plywood.

I had the same issue. Unfortunately I found out after I used 2 sheets of 3/4" plywood. I was a mear 1/8" off (the min for Mercruiser is 2 1/8"), so I added on a sheet of luan (lightly PL'd in place) and glassed it using 2 layers of mat, making it 2 1/4" thick. I like the recommendation of using a sheet of aluminum, if I were to do it over again I would probably use that idea. PL makes a bunch of different adhesives, be sure to use the poly adhesive.

I fastened mine together using drywall screws under the theory if water corrodes the screws, the transom isn't far behind anyhow. :p
 

thrillhouse700

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Re: Transom out of 2 3/4" pieces of plywood.

Hmmm lots of good info here. So ditch the PL for the transom....... resin seems to be the winner here. So wet down one side of the transom and then let is get close to hardening then lay down one layer of csm then wet that down then wet down the other piece of wood and clamp or screw them together?
 

sho3boater

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Re: Transom out of 2 3/4" pieces of plywood.

I would recommend you paint the ply pieces with resin until they take no more, usually 2-3 coats and it only takes a few minutes. Then layer them in a jig or use SS screws yeah any screw really, and get them fit together as fits in the boat. Then lay glass/resin and put it together with screws or weight it down to compress them together some so you have no voids. The glass between will divide the wood core in to sections as well as add strength to the composite panel you are building. Put all the layers together within the time allowed for a wet bond, IIRC with epoxy it is 24hr you don't have to sand and get a chemical bond not just mechanical. I do sand a little to smooth parts off. When you get it all done put it in the hull in one piece, it will be amazingly strong. Don't forget to seal any and all holes you put in it.

If you put layers of glass between it will be much stronger than just the wood, that is a composite even though the wood core is also structural. Remember glass makes it strong the resin is just glue that holds it there and weak in its own, but it will waterproof the wood if you soak it before installing.

Some performance boats use 1/2 ply, and they use marine ply, to make some of the strongest transoms. For most normal boats two layers of CDX 3/4 will do just fine and add in thinner to get thickness of what you need. For a performance boat with high speeds/HP I'd be more picky how I did it.

I prefer epoxy but you don't have to use that type of resin. You will have to make clamps to hold the wood tight to the existing skin of transom to get a good bond in there. Many use mat or cloth, it holds more resin so you keep the voids out better when you are bonding two parts together like that that may not be perfect or are flexable.

So wet down one side of the transom and then let is get close to hardening then lay down one layer of csm then wet that down then wet down the other piece of wood and clamp or screw them together?
Most build the entire thing, then drop it into the hull with glass (mat/csm/etc; whatever you want to use) on it wet and clamp it up to bond it back to the skin. Some even paint resin on the skin so it has a fresh coat to bond to, I'd do what the resin maker recommends. Never let it kick part way for anything I can think of. You never want more resin you want to squeeze it out. Resin is extra weight and without lots of glass in it, it is very weak and can break. I have left glass stuffed in voids and poured resin inside there later, otherwise I'd never use more than I had to. If water got into a small void down the side of your new transom for example, it might get into the wood any place on the end of it. Last one I did I drilled a hole and poured it full there, but the gap was pretty small anyway.
 

Lion hunter

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Re: Transom out of 2 3/4" pieces of plywood.

Emil,
I was talking about when joining two sheets plwood together to create 2 1/4" that its is better to join opposing grains. Faces and backs of plwood always have the grain running lengthwise. When you glue 2 sheets together you are making a center core from a face and back. Better to make that new center with perpendicualr grains. I have had the pleasure of making plywood in the most miserable hot mill for 15 years .
 
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