Transom questions

[Jameswnash]

I have a 96 Nitro savage 896 that I have been working on making new again. I pulled the motor because i noticed at the bottom of the jack plate it had pushed in to the transom but I couldnt tell how far. I decided I would evuluate and fix and at the same time put a jack plate on that was easier adjusted than the old one that was just a lift it to where you want it type. I bought the Z Lock plate. I had a feeling by the way the old jack plate was sitting that the top bolts may have came a little loose and thats why it was pushing in at the bottom and after pulling the motor my suspicions were confirmed. Luckily the damage is very minimal and it hasnt pushed in more than a 1/16 of an inch. I dont have much experience with these things so here comes the real questions....I dont see any visible damage to the transom other than what i described but when i push pretty hard on the center of it I can see it move very slightly, Is this normal? And what ive also noticed that I dont like is that it is a hollow space between the outside fiberglass and inside fiberglass, I would think they would make this solid. So basically the slight flex Im seeing is in that 1/2" or whatever it is piece of outside glass. I bought a piece of 316 stainless 3/8" thick that I was thinking of putting between the jack plate and the transom that would cover the whole transom basically. I figured it would spread the pressure more and it seems on the sides and bottom it doesnt sound hollow. But if this is overkill and would add too much weight to a boat thats already a little slow getting on plane, i dont want to do it ( plate weighs about 8 lbs). There is some damage to the top part of the boat that sits on top of the transom, not a big deal to fix, just dont want water getting between the to sides. I took some pics but idk if they help or not, could take more if needed to advise.

 

[CrazyFinn]

You probably don't want to hear this, but...

No, there should be no flex either on the inside or outside. My guess is that the wood core in your transom is waterlogged and rotten. The support that is supposed to be provided by the wood core has turned to mush, which is part of the reason why the bottom edges have dug into the transom.

Looks to me like where it has dig in would also let water into the transom - but maybe that's just the photo.

The metal plate would only be a temporary band-aid. The waterlogged transom is also making your boat heavier than it should be...

Even if it's not rotten now, there is going to be water in there that you have to get out - you don't want to seal it up wet.

 

[Jameswnash]

So when they say its not a wooden transom....thats not entirely true? It figures. I think its just the pucs that make it look like it would let water in, it is a very very slight indention probably not even a sixteenth. Im certainly not debating that you are correct its just that a couple of boat owners that I know that saw it said i was over reacting to the flex, they said thats not even flex that i was pushing really hard and it barely moved but im with you it should be moving not even a 32nd of an inch. The plate would extend all the way down to the bottom to the edge of the curve where its solid as a rock. On the other hand it wouldnt be to hard to take a dremel and cut the little section of the top half of the boat that goes over the top edge of the transom and take a look down in there. or if i can find a hole thats big enough or make one in top i could snake my plumbing camera down in there and look around. If there is a wood core and its rotten, can I fix it from the top accessing thru that top edge? I know that its hollow between the front and back around the bolt holes because I can stick a screwdriver in one side at an angle and there is nothing there.

 

[CrazyFinn]

In the first three pictures it "looks" like there are cracks in the glass - if so, water would have gotten in. Also, if the upper bolts were loose, water would have gotten in that way - around the bolts. The transom has to have something for a core - and it's usually wood. Most boats have a wood core in the transom. If not wood, not sure what it would be (the boat is already 20 years old), but maybe somebody else here would have some insights. Regardless, if water has gotten into the transom, it's not a good thing.

To check the transom - go to the INSIDE of the boat and drill a few 1/4" holes part way in (make sure you don't drill though). If you get water, wet wood, mush, you have a problem. If not, seal the holes with 5200 and do what you need to do. Check near the bottom of the transom where the water would accumulate.

 

[Scott Danforth]

the first phase in every full on restoration is denial of the issue

 

[Jameswnash]

Ok, verified that whatever used to be in between the front and back is just flaky crumbs of dust.... If it was wood ive never seen rotted wood turn to whatever this was... it flakes away like ash. Seems like it has been this way for many years, there is no moisture at all. What would be wrong with going out to the farthest edges of it and gluing down to vertical blocks of wood to act as barriers and filling the in between with pour a transom of some kind? the outer fiberglass and inner seem in great shape. There are no boat repair shops that i can find withing 3 hours of me that look like somewhere i would feel comfortable spending a bunch of money. And this boat is pristeen other than this issue...Ive spent alot of time bringing it back. I honestly wouldnt have thought anything wrong with transom. I put half my 250 lbs on the end of the motor and didnt see anything move or else obviously i wouldnt have taken this adventure

 

[ezmobee]

Sounds like a great candidate for a SeaCast transom. Remove or cut access into the top of the transom, cut/dig the old wood out with an electric chainsaw and fill it back up with SeaCast.

 

[sphelps]

It looks like there is already a crack at the bottom of the transom where your old plate pushed it in .. I would dig around or drill a hole to confirm it's a wood core .
It's gunna need to be fixed at that spot anyway .. Just from the pics it looks like a replacement is needed .. I know that's not what ya wanted to hear .
There are pourable options but either way there will be a good bit of prep involved ..

 

[Jameswnash]

Well it gets worse. Good news is the wood was so rotten you good blow it out with your breath...lol.....Bad news is, stringers are also rotten. It js has a channel about a foot wide that runs thru the center and the 2 main stringers are inside the fiberglass and they are the edges of the channel. If there are more and Im assuming there are, you cant see them because once the walls of the channel come up they flatten out. I already bought sea cast to fill the transom before I found this out so Im gonna split the hull ( I have to to get the sea cast all the way out to the sides) ( either that or cut the inside or out side transom and Im not doung that)...Fix the transom and run it carefully because I know its been running like that for a long time and I cant find any cracks on the bottom of hull. In the mean time Im looking for another hull to swap everything to... I wish I could find another hull that I could drop my top half on to but I doubt that will happen.

 

[jbcurt00]

Since it was un'disturbed' below decks, the upper and lower halves still connected, and was use for quite some time that way, doesn't suggest it can be run that way further.

And IMO spending the time and money to put Seacast in a known rotten hull is a complete waste of both.

In much of the US it's still a buyers market, ESP for project hulls. Further into spring and summer it becomes a sellers market, EVEN for project hulls

Before you spend the money and actually install the Seacast, if only as a learning experience, dig in and see if a fiberglass project boat is really what you want. Seacast does have a shelf life. IIRC its shelf life is really more about the polyester based resin's hardener: MEKP; more so then the resin. Until you install it in this rotten hull, it can still be used for a different boat.

Consider an aluminum boat if you want a 'quicker and easier' rehab into a safe, water-ready boat. It at least isn't toxic to you and your lungs like polyester resin is.

As a last note, it isn't just about you and that you know its a rotten hull now. It's also about those that board this boat w/ you, those around you in other boats while you use it, and first responders if something does happen. My wife would flog me if I took her out on a less then completely seaworthy boat. If we had kids, the flogging would be much more substantial. If something were to happen, I wouldn't want the decision to use the boat in less then sound condition lingering over me.

Boat and boat rehab safely.

Good luck

 

[ezmobee]

If you're already going to do the work to decap it AND replace the transom.....you're like 1/2 to 2/3rds of the way to a full structural repair. I'd go ahead an cut out the stringers and glass in new ones and then you have a boat you can run as long as you want and sell with a good conscious knowing it's solid.

 

[sphelps]

Agree with ezmobee ... If your gunna decap go ahead and replace the stringers ... Foam is probably wet and heavy also ... If you do find a different hull the chances are that it will probably have the same problems ...

 

[Jameswnash]

I do understand everything everyone is saying, and I do appreciate it. Im js lost I guess. The boat wasnt even my idea to begin with, it was my wifes. I used to fish on the circuit but I quit along time ago and she recently went bass fishing with me at a little tank and fell in love and wanted us to get a boat. I really didnt see any chance of going wrong with this deal but obviously it did. Now everyone and I mean everyone is telling me how easy it is to find another hull or go this route and that route but Im not finding jack....ANTWHERE near me. and I mean withing 300 miles. I spent savings on this deal and cant go get another one in that price range. Cant stand the though of letting the 200 merc that runs like champ with perfect compression js sit there either. I guess Im just not seeing the options that everyone else is making sound so simple. Im a VERY handy guy with all the tools and space needed to do the job if the info is there on how to do it and Im not worried about wether its worth it resale wise because I wouldnt sell it. Problem is I cant find the info on doing one with hull stringers set up like mine. So, Im waiting and praying and hoping soon I will see clearly the right path

 

[jbcurt00]

Post pix and ask questions about your stringers.

Not sure what setup your Nitro stringers might have that would be a problem.

 

[CrazyFinn]

Problem is I cant find the info on doing one with hull stringers set up like mine. So, Im waiting and praying and hoping soon I will see clearly the right path

You can fix it. And since you already own the thing, fixing it is the cheapest option. Not cheap, but cheaper than any boat that's new enough to not have any rot.

Post some pictures - of everything you can.

 

[Slager]

Almost everyone on here has had the same process of thinking they have a solid hull, only to discover that the transom and stringers are rotten. Many had very little knowledge and skill in this kind of work before, but have managed to learn along the way. If you post pictures and ask questions the people here can help you figure out a plan of repair.

 

[sphelps]

Don't fret over things too much because there is nothing structurally to it that you can't fix yourself ... Now it will take a good bit of work but in the end you will have a much better boat when done .. Almost always better than the factory did ! And the satisfaction that you did it yourself and saved a good bit of money doing it .
Take some good pics of the whole boat and start looking how things are put together to come up with a plan .. Bass boats can be a bit challenging but completely doable ...
I have used a good bit of seacast over the years as have others here like archbuilder so if ya have any questions on that just ask away ..
Good luck on whatever you decide to do with it !

 

[Jameswnash]

wont be able to post any pics that you can see anything until the cap comes off....... Ive gotta figure out when Im gonna be able to start this project because I have a few other projects going right now that Im already in the middle of.

 

[Jameswnash]

After alot of careful consideration and wall punching and whiskey (kidding).... I went with the option that most people told me I was crazy to do. I took the boat to Toledo Fiberlass in Louisiana (12 hr drive) and not only had them replace the entire transom ($6500) with a lifetime warranty but also add what they are famous for (Gorilla hull) which was another $3500 and here is my reasoning. I have been thru this boat from front to back and not only bad it look showroom new but I also replaced every wire and switch in it basicially. Pumps, hoses and tons of things, point being is that I know this boat inside and out and know that there is nothing else wrong with it as well as I like the boat. I looked around and really had a hard time finding anything without a motor that was worth fixing or they were trying to pass off some of the same problems mine had as well. In order to get a boat that I was sure didnt have major issues it seemed I was in the 15k plus range and they still had little issues that mine dont have. So for 10k I have a hull that has a lifetime warranty on it basically ( gorilla hull is warrantied for life against even stump damage). One interesting find at the shop was that even tho everyone told me that boat has wooden stringers and I do believe that they came that way.... it turns out that mine only had a thin piece of wood I guess used as a form and the rest was fiberglass or composite...The shop said I shouldnt have to ever worry about the rib structure in that boat. Its been there for almost a month and will be coming home in another month....pretty fired up.

 

[kcon]

Sounds like Toledo Fiberglass made out pretty damn well. Well, at least your motor will go before your hull does...