Re: Transom Rebuild
I redid a transom and mount. Added some extra Channel Aluminum across the back half where the transom bolts to them.
used multi layers of OAK plywood and used a waterproofing sealant, Green Interstate signs (no I didnt steal it) fiberglass cloth and fiberglass resin and gel coat.
dry fitted it then slathered it all together and put some bolts with washers thru it, cranked em down real good with a breaker bar and used a few Bessey clamps and my bench vise and let it all dry for 5 days locked up in a small shed that the temp got well above 100deg every day, Un clamped it, took the bolts out, sanded the blobs and oozes down, put a clear gel coat polish top coat on it, let it dry and installed it.
It wont ROT, RUST, WATERLOG, or react to Any other surface and I dont think you could break it if you had too. Probably more bullet proof than plate steel, if you do it right you can slap a higher HP outboard on it,,,, And the green reflective coating from the interstate signs looks pretty cool at night reflecting with just a small light back in that area.. REDNECK MOOD LIGHTING!! Helps when your backing up and your playing Demo Derby Night on the lake!!
Believe it or not It was almost $60 cheaper than buying marine grade waterproof plywood, and replacement aluminum plates and I bet itll outlast ANY marine grade plywood.
And it had 12 bolts going thru the motor mount and to the transom mount block., and the transom was held to the bottom of the pontoon deck with 10 bolts going up thru 5 full length crossmember channels . Motor was a 115hp Mercury inline 6. Pontoon boat was 28foot or 26 foot, 2 round aluminum toons. Last year he bolted a 140hp merc on it and the transom and the rear structure has NO problem with the weight or the HP.
