Transom repair Smoker Craft jon boat

[Steve A W]

I'm rebuilding the transom on my Smoker Craft Big Jon 16'
model/1672J yr/1994
What I need is a picture of the knee brace where it attaches to the bottom.
Some p/o of this boat rebuilt the transom with a white oak plank to make it
usable with a long shaft motor. They really buggered this up.
I've got to get some holes welded where they bolted the motor on.
There's four pieces of angle iron mounting the knee brace to the bottom.
As long as I can get the transom board in I'm not going to mess with them
if I don't have to. They don't leak so I don't want to fix it till it does.
I'd like to see what it should be like.
One more question, Can I use stainless hardware. This boat will never see
salt water.
The screws on the transom appear to be stainless but they used regular steel
nuts on them and it looks crappy, they've rusted and left rust streaks on the paint.

Steve A W

 

[jbcurt00]

It looks like aluminum angle to me holding the knee brace to the hull, but w steel bolts, washers and nuts.

Those steel fasteners need to come out, the sooner the better.

IMO, right idea, poor execution by the PO.

What does the other side of the knee look like?

 

[Steve A W]

It looks just like this side.
Would stainless bolts & nuts be the way to go?

 

[Bondo]

Would stainless bolts & nuts be the way to go?

Yes,....

 

[Watermann]

Through the hull bolts and rivets should be coated liberally with 3M 5200 to seal the deal, never use sillycone.

 

[Steve A W]

Another question, what to seal the transom wood with?
I saw an old post that had a mix of Boiled Linseed oil, Mineral Spirits and some kind of Varnish.
I thought I bookmarked it but I didn't. Would someone know what that mix is?
Thanks

Steve A W

 

[Watermann]

I use Helmsman spar varnish and have great results. Here's the old timers recipe.

 

[Steve A W]

Watermann
That was the recipe I was looking for, thanks.
You said you use Helmsman spar varnish, do you mix this recipe or do you use it by itself?
Thanks again.

Steve A W

 

[Watermann]

I use the spar by itself. On good marine ply I only use 2 coats on all the flats and 4 on the edges since after that it just builds on itself. Lesser quality ply that has fewer ply layers that are thicker may take more before it soaks to the first layer glue barrier.

 

[Steve A W]

Watermann
Thanks for the quick reply.
I've been going thru your resto. threads.
Mighty impressive!!

Steve A W

 

[Woodonglass]

Here's the reasoning behind the OT recipe. Varnish by itself provides mostly an external barrier. It will soak into the inner layers of the wood some what but generally it's design is for an external barrier. the OT on the other hand is extremely thin and non viscous. It's also extremely HIGH in solids due to the Boiled Linseed Oil. These solids are broken down by the Mineral Spirits but when they dry out the tend to swell and expand again thus sealing the inner cells of the wood where they have bee carried much deeper due to the fact that the mixture IS much more viscous. The poly is there to also provide a bit of a "Plastic" barrier to the inner regions of the wood too. You then use the full strength poly to give the additional outer layer seal and protection. Both methods will work. It's been my experience that the OT recipe provides a bit more and longer lasting for just a bit more money and time and effort.

 

[Steve A W]

Woodonglass
Thanks for the explanation.

Steve A W