Transom replacement 1975 18' SS

[ab59]

Not new but it's been a while since I posted here. Funny but I can't seem to find posts about replacing transoms on or near this year StarCraft. I have an outboard on this one, no sterndrive. I'm tryin to get an idea of what my gameplan will be. Will I need to remove the spillwell to change the Transom out?? I am going to pull the console's as well since someone did not remove an old deck and forced another on top of the old one that makes the windshield not want to line up. A little soft up front anyway. I looked but can't seem to find a way to search out other posts about this. Yes, I know there must be a bunch somewhere but I guess I forgot how to get around on this site!!!

 

[Scott Danforth]

For the deck, remove both rotten layers and go from there.

You will have a bit of foam work to do as that will be a soggy mess

For the transom.....

Remove motor
Remove splash well and transom trim
Remove plug tube
Remove kick braces and any trim tabs or hardware on the outside
Pull out bad transom and use as a template for the new transom
Laminate 2 layers of CDX or marine plywood
Coat with OTF
Install transom
Install kick braces
Install new plug tube with the $10 tube swedging tool
Install splashwell and trim
Install motor

Drink a beer

Go boating

 

[rolmops]

For the deck, remove both rotten layers and go from there.

You will have a bit of foam work to do as that will be a soggy mess

For the transom.....

Remove motor
Remove splash well and transom trim
Remove plug tube
Remove kick braces and any trim tabs or hardware on the outside
Pull out bad transom and use as a template for the new transom
Laminate 2 layers of CDX or marine plywood
Coat with OTF
Install transom
Install kick braces
Install new plug tube with the $10 tube swedging tool
Install splashwell and trim
Install motor

Drink a beer

Go boating

I would drink a beer at the end of each day you work on this. Roughly 3 six packs should be plenty

 

[Scott Danforth]

I would drink a beer at the end of each day you work on this. Roughly 3 six packs should be plenty

Yep... A weekends worth of work

 

[Gibbles]

Easy boats to work on, I'm getting flashbacks about doing 2 1/2 of mine.

 

[BWR1953]

I don't know about the SS, but on my Kingfisher and Chieftain, the hull drain plug tube didn't need to be removed, because the transom is far above it. I know that the Chief has drain tubes on the splashwell though.

 

[IslandExplorer]

Great project!! I always wanted the bigger SS 18, absolutely loved my SS 16 all the way till the end, RIP.
Yeah, don't let the project spook you or slow you down. The transom is a 'big deal' but like said above, it really is just 1 weekend of focused work. I cut and installed mine in my 25 foot aluminum Starcraft with relative ease. Used ACX or BCX, titebond 3 glue, screws to pin it all together, and rustoleum. Great results and easy install. This is one of the exact advantages to these simple aluminum boats- the transom is Not glassed in = cheap easy replacement. Tip: If you have a router- taking the corners off with a quarter round helps protect the finish and helps the new transom slide into place a little easier/less binding. I ran the router across all the edges but the top for this reason. Great thing about regular old paint is if you scrape the paint a little installing it- it's easy and plenty cheap to touch up after with your extra left over. No elaborate prep needed for paint, just basic prep. And it soaks in pretty damn good in my opinion! I used rustoleum alkyd enamel floor and patio paint on my 5/8 BCX decks with the traction compound.

Yeah epoxy IS the best, blah, blah, not arguing that. Or you can be an ass like me and proudly use none on your boat, just like from the SC factory! I was really impressed with the lifespan of the original used and abused basic stuff so I definitely don't coat things with 75 plus dollar a gallon tempermental crap that needs 15 weekends to be "right". Cheap boats don't need to be treated like they're Hinckleys or something. The oil based rustoleum will give you serious bang for the buck and last a very long time with little care. Esp if you cover your boat when not un use, then it will basically last forever. Leaves and rain kill em slowly and quietly while they wait to be used. Keep it clean and nose tilted significantly up to keep decks drained and everything goes out drain plug hole like it'ssupposed to. This makes a huge difference.

Best of luck with it and if you want any pictures of the exact process I have a bunch I can send you or they're prob in my chief 25 build thread.

 

[MNhunter1]

Do you need to remove the splashwell - no

Will it make it much easier if you remove the splashwell - yes

Same with the gunnels, you can cut them or bend them up, but removing them makes it a much easier process.

I guess it all boils down to how deep of a renovation/restoration you want to get into. After 3 of these boats, it's an all or nothing adventure for me. If the transom is in need of replacement, you're going to find it in your best interest to strip it down to bare hull...inspect, clean, repair, and replace everything as you go along. Leaky/loose rivets, rotten decking, ancient wiring, saturated foam - 50 years of wear and tear, potential neglect and abuse. Do it right and it'll last another 50+ if taken care of correctly.

 

[ab59]

Well, first off, thanks for all the replies!! I was hoping ( but somehow knew it wasn't going to be) this would be a quick job that I could do without removing the spill well. I changed out the transom and deck on my 88 20ft SS a few years ago when I replaced the deck and 350 motor. That was not too bad of a chore and I enjoyed it. I moved here to Oklahoma to escape Commiefornia, and this hot and humid weather has me housebound most of the day, so I was hoping this would not be too involved. But, I figure if I work on it no later than 10am each day, I can get 'er dun without too much of a problem. We don't have much here in this little town in the way of good rivets to do the reinstallation of the deck and consoles with so I am going to have to order what I need. Not sure what sizes I will be needing though. Memory fails me more and more now, lol. Seems like 3/16 in various lengths on the other restore but I dunno. I see stress cracks in the spillwell also, do you guys think I should try to patch them with a little alumaweld and paint? Not sure a repair would hold there.

 

[BWR1953]

Check out @Watermann 's thread about rivets. Everything you need to know should be there.

Rivets, rivets and more rivets! (Repaired)

All of us have to learn a new trade when it comes to restoring our 'gently used' riveted aluminum boats. Disputably Starcraft boats are the most popular and prolific aluminum boat of all time and the same rivet questions come up time and time again. Rather than answer each and every question...

forums.iboats.com

And many of us have to deal with the heat/humidity. I take the same approach as you. Get out there early and get something done, then hide indoors during the heat. Once in a while, I'll go back in the evening for a bit if it isn't too oppressive out there.

 

[ab59]

Check out @Watermann 's thread about rivets. Everything you need to know should be there.

Rivets, rivets and more rivets! (Repaired)

All of us have to learn a new trade when it comes to restoring our 'gently used' riveted aluminum boats. Disputably Starcraft boats are the most popular and prolific aluminum boat of all time and the same rivet questions come up time and time again. Rather than answer each and every question...

forums.iboats.com

And many of us have to deal with the heat/humidity. I take the same approach as you. Get out there early and get something done, then hide indoors during the heat. Once in a while, I'll go back in the evening for a bit if it isn't too oppressive out there.

Thanks, I must have read that before but forgotton. I used to post with Watermann more than most on my project a few years ago. Knowledgeable guy, and very helpful. His post has pretty much all the info I needed for this project. Thanks.

 

[MNhunter1]

Yep, the rivets sticky should give you pretty much everything you need. 3/16's primarily, with 5/32's used on stuff like the gunnel caps.

Regarding the cracks in the splashwell/spill well - I'd rivet in some aluminum patches/braces underneath/behind them and fill them with MarineTex. If you don't brace them, they are bound to crack again. Just be mindful of their location and any potential clearance issues with the patches.

 

[IslandExplorer]

Splashwell cracks can form from the transom being too flexible/soft. Once replaced it is still a reinforcement but not required usually. I would put the splash well back on using 2 or 3 5/32 or so SS through bolts with lock washers to start if it is warped at all which it easily could be a little. Prob about 2.5" long is what you'd need to close gap and snug it up once the new transom is in there. The bolts help pull it together, screws can pull out more easily. Once together replace the rest with SS screws. Might save ya some time.

Cracks you can stop by drilling them at ends, put a piece of 1/8 x 2 aluminum flat bar behind them where needed and rivet seam with 1/2 long x 3/16 blind rivets and it'll be stronger than new. You'll get decades of functionality cheap and without the time need for a detailed 'restore'.

A big old industrial shop fan blasting away next to you can help you extend your working hrs into the hotter part of the day outside more easily. I'll be doing that today myself, its about 90 here. Helps keeps the aluminum shaving off ya too!

Be sure to seal it all up really good bc water tends to get in that splashwell pretty often and it will want to enter transom through the splashwell tubs screws. I've come to prefer Loctite PL Marine over 3M 5200 and others. Keeps well and is also crazy strong yet flexible. Can get it in a caulking gun tube for some savings on price per oz too for a big sealing job like transom.