Transom Trouble (w/pics)

[wolfspyryt]

I have a 1978 18' Starcraft Aluminum. The transom is about 5 years old. The people who put it in did it in 3 pieces. It flexes quite a bit. Can this flexing cause a "torque-steer" or pull while accelerating or under speed? The boat even tips or leans when accelerating or traveling at a steady speed. The weight distribution in the boat is close enough to equal to sit flat when sitting at the dock without people.

Will replacing the transom with a properly constructed 1-piece transom help?

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: Transom Trouble

Re: Transom Trouble

there is a tab above the prop. that is adjustable, if the wheel pulls right, move back of tab to right. left to left. what motor is on it?

 

[wolfspyryt]

Re: Transom Trouble

Re: Transom Trouble

1984 Suzuki DT75

 

[wolfspyryt]

Re: Transom Trouble

Re: Transom Trouble

the right side of the boat rides deeper in the water when acceleration takes place. It changes some when I adjust the trim. The higher the motor is, the less lean and pull.

 

[Ezrider_92356]

Re: Transom Trouble

Re: Transom Trouble

boats lean from the spinning of the prop the deeper the v on the boat the more they tend to lean.

 

[wolfspyryt]

Re: Transom Trouble

Re: Transom Trouble

It seems to lean excessively though. I understand rotational torque steer. Will the replaced and rigid transom reduce this? Another words ... is it possible the motor is twisting the transom? and by adjusting trim at higher speeds, it forces the boat to level?

I need to do the transom anyway ... as I said it is in 3 seperate, unglued pieces of plywood.

Also noted the tabs on the transom support are sheared of, providing NO additional support.

Will that add to a torque steer / lean situation?

 

[Ezrider_92356]

Re: Transom Trouble

Re: Transom Trouble

from your discription of the transom it is unsafe and needs to be replaced

 

[wolfspyryt]

Re: Transom Trouble

Re: Transom Trouble

I am replacing the transom right now ... I will post pics in an hour or less of the current transom after pulling the Suzuki DT75.

Thanks to everyone for all the advice and help. Hope to return the help.

... TO BE CONTINUED SHORTLY

 

[wolfspyryt]

Re: Transom Trouble

Re: Transom Trouble

Here are some views of the transom terror ...

note:

1. 3 section transom
2. warped / bowed even without engine
3. wood still looks good though it has to go
4. transom support snapped on both sides

 

[wolfspyryt]

Re: Transom Trouble

Re: Transom Trouble

Here are a few other views

 

[wolfspyryt]

Re: Transom Trouble

Re: Transom Trouble

what is the best way to "treat" or "seal" the new transom?

The one I am taking out was never sealed ... although it is "Marine-Plywood".

Lotta good that does when you saw it into pieces reducing it's support and strength.

 

[nuttyboater]

Re: Transom Trouble

Re: Transom Trouble

Looks to me like there is a good gap where those supports are snapped off, is that why there is such a bow to the transom? I assume they broke and the motor weight is causing the transom to sag back like that.

Welding them back on would be a good idea, and maybe even adding some additional support to them. I got a welding shop here that can do miracles on aluminum, for breaks on pieces like that i have them weld it back on and cut and weld in further bracing to the bend so it can't snap again.

I see two pieces of plywood back to back, two pieces, but you mentioned three?

 

[wolfspyryt]

Re: Transom Trouble

Re: Transom Trouble

Yes, they glued (2) -3/4" sheets together to make a total thickness of 1 1/2".

But ... Look at the seem in pic ... the (2) top corners are small triangles of wood ... separate from the main transom ... hence I say 3 pieces.

Gues what I should say is 6 pieces of ply glued together to make 3 sections. The 3 Sections are NOT connected together. Therefore they provided NO support against the weight or power of the motor.

Boat is rate for 140 hp ... But NOT with the transom construction like it is.

Have a friend who works fabricating Aluminum. He said he could make a cap to fit right over the old transom support. That would be buch stronger than before.

I think it broke because of the 3 Section Transom.

 

[Tacklewasher]

Re: Transom Trouble

Re: Transom Trouble

One thing I've done to mine is replace the splashwell screws underneath with bolts all the way through the transom.

Initially this was to get me through the current season as I want to replace the transom, but it's not critical yet. After doing this, I've pretty much decided that this is how it should be built.

I know it is a lot of bolts but it looks a whole lot stronger to me than the screws.

Just a thought.


ETA: My boat leans to starboard too. But nothing a diet couldn't fix.

 

[wolfspyryt]

Re: Transom Trouble

Re: Transom Trouble

I must say, removing the transom was much more difficult than I imagined. Here is what it looks like with the transom removed.

Any suggestions, advice or comments would be appreciated.

What is the best way of making sure the motor is centered and at the correct height when I re-install? Should I trust the holes by the last owner?

The last owner cut the "curve" in the aluminum outer transom skin. You can see the cuts in the images.

I want to make sure I do not create problems by re-installing in the same holes if they are wrong.

1978 18' Starcraft Aluminum
1984 Suzuki DT75

Thanks for everyone's help.

 

[Willyclay]

Re: Transom Trouble (w/pics)

I feel your pain! The transom in my 1965 LoneStar 16.5 ft Medallion II was so bad that I removed most it with a shovel. Just a few comments about my project and then I will let the experts, which I am not, post their advice.

Your old transom of two/three/six pieces of plywood appears to have only ten plies total. My transom that was 1&5/8 inches thick had SEVENTEEN plies! My transom cap determined the transom thickness. Maybe you have some room for some additional plies. I would try to get the maximum!

I had to totally remove my splashwell to make a template for a new transom to be certain of the fit. In addition, I found that I had to loosen/remove the deck cap on one side to be able to slide the new transom into place. That may be the reason the previous owner made his up in multiple pieces.

Good luck!

 

[Joe_the_boatman]

Re: Transom Trouble

Re: Transom Trouble

Check out my transom from the link in my signature. Same boat. Pretty easy to replace; I got all my ideas after a TON of research here and other boat sites, and am pretty happy with the results.

For materials, basically pressure treated's the easiest to use, but reacts with aluminum (CQA preservative). Marine grade uses CCA still, so it doesn't react, but is more expensive. Many people use untreated and encapsulate it in epoxy or poly resin. Don't use "thompson's", polyurethane, or varnish - it won't last. I think the transom I pulled out was polyurethaned, and it was half sawdust.

For getting it out, I pryed from beneath with a prybar and 2X4's underneath, and stacked them as I worked my way up. Took about 10 minutes.

It doesn't look like much was cut, from your pictures. It looks like the back of mine pretty much. I can take some measurements tomorrow and we could compare them.

For centering, I think we just have to measure carefully. I'm putting my Merc back on this weekend, hopefully.

 

[nuttyboater]

Re: Transom Trouble (w/pics)

Funny someone went through all that trouble and then did it with all those pieces! Two pieces would have been alright, but to make those top corner pieces seperate was a bit dumb.

Looks like you got it on the road to recovery now though!

 

[Joe_the_boatman]

Re: Transom Trouble (w/pics)

Funny someone went through all that trouble and then did it with all those pieces! Two pieces would have been alright, but to make those top corner pieces seperate was a bit dumb.

Looks like you got it on the road to recovery now though!

For what it's worth, mine was in 3 pieces also, and my lower transom support was also cracked like the above pictures. Coincidence or not, you decide.

For these boats, it looks like to replace the transom, you either:
1) Use 1 piece, remove splashwell to install
2) Use 1 piece, cut gunwale above transom to allow it to slide straight up, or
3) Use 3 piece, don't cut or remove anything


It seems most don't know about #2, which I got the idea from someone here on iboats.

 

[Tacklewasher]

Re: Transom Trouble (w/pics)

As a guess, the cuts were to give enough room to mount a kicker right to the transom without using a kicker bracket. Cut bot sides so it didn't look wonky.

Again, just a guess but I'm curious how it would work. I'm still trying to figure the best way to mount my kicker on mine.

I do plan on cutting the caps like # 2 above so I can put in one piece of wood. Once you put the corner caps back on, you'll never know it was cut.

Mine is 3 pieces as well. I really don't think the corner pieces make much difference in the strength as everything is resting on the main piece, but I will do one piece when I do mine.

Anyway, I don't think the small area that was cut away will make a difference and I think you are heading in the right direction.

Measure the holes from either side and they should be the same distance. Likely not in the wrong place but I'd just double check.