Transom Water Pipe, should I replace?

[Biggyniner]

Was replacing my hydraulic lines this evening when I noticed a lot of white goo around my water pipe coming through the transom. Removed the hose and it looks a little rough. Since I'm new with boats, does this look like I should replace it? Better to do it now while I am in here I suppose.

Thanks

 

[achris]

Alpha, Bravo, TRS, SSM... ?

What are you playing with? Model, year, serial number.

Chris....

 

[Bt Doctur]

If the white goo is sillycone I suspect they didnt notice where the leak was coming from./ looking at the pic I think its a steering arm seal that was leaking by the other white corrosion

 

[scoflaw]

The white tube doesn't even look round anymore. I'd take that off and see what's behind it, new gasket at a minimum

 

[Biggyniner]

Alpha, Bravo, TRS, SSM... ?

What are you playing with? Model, year, serial number.

Chris....

Hi Chris,

It is a 1993 Alpha 1 gen 2 305 LX (currently working on a 350 swap.) Where do I find the serial number?

If I pull those screws and take the pipe out what is behind there? Does it just connect to the rubber water hose that goes to the stern drive unit?

Thanks all!

 

[harringtondav]

It looks like someone made a goober repair on a leak at the pipe's seal. It looks like a R/MR - Alpha. If so, the out drive must be pulled and the bell housing loosened to disconnect the bell housing water supply hose from the tube. Then the tube is pulled back in through the transom plate. Fairly involved process, so probably the reason someone took a short cut.

I'd put the boat in the water and see if, and where it leaks. Leave it alone if it doesn't leak, and wait for another reason to disassemble the gimbal assembly, and replace the tube or the seals as mentioned above at that time. Sooner or later the bellows will need replacement, and you'll be well into the leak repairs then.

 

[Biggyniner]

It looks like someone made a goober repair on a leak at the pipe's seal. It looks like a R/MR - Alpha. If so, the out drive must be pulled and the bell housing loosened to disconnect the bell housing water supply hose from the tube. Then the tube is pulled back in through the transom plate. Fairly involved process, so probably the reason someone took a short cut.

I'd put the boat in the water and see if, and where it leaks. Leave it alone if it doesn't leak, and wait for another reason to disassemble the gimbal assembly, and replace the tube or the seals as mentioned above at that time. Sooner or later the bellows will need replacement, and you'll be well into the leak repairs then.

Well I currently have the outdrive off since I have the engine out. The boat did have a recent bellows job, but I have not had it in the water since owning it.... The intermediate housing is still together, is that what you are referring to as the bellhousing??

 

[harringtondav]

Per achris more info on your model outdrive will improve the accuracy of forum responses. If you don't know, a pic will help. Pics of both the out drive and the gimbal assembly. The outdrive is bolted to the bell housing from the rear. Your bellows are attached to the bell housing from it's front. The bell housing provides the up-down trim pivot function.

It's loosened by removing (depending on model) the trim senders, and the pivot pins. The tool below is a must to remove the pins, and get the 90 ft lb torque. It can be purchased for $7-$15 on eBay. "Mercruiser hinge pin tool". It's a very tight fit inside even with the pins removed. Maybe enough to force it aside to get the hose removed.

If not, you can get all the room you need by removing the rear of the drive shaft and exhaust bellows. This will require a second special tool to expand the exhaust bellows on reassembly, and a new retaining ring for the DS bellows.

 

[Biggyniner]

Per achris more info on your model outdrive will improve the accuracy of forum responses. If you don't know, a pic will help. Pics of both the out drive and the gimbal assembly. The outdrive is bolted to the bell housing from the rear. Your bellows are attached to the bell housing from it's front. The bell housing provides the up-down trim pivot function.

It's loosened by removing (depending on model) the trim senders, and the pivot pins. The tool below is a must to remove the pins, and get the 90 ft lb torque. It can be purchased for $7-$15 on eBay. "Mercruiser hinge pin tool". It's a very tight fit inside even with the pins removed. Maybe enough to force it aside to get the hose removed.

If not, you can get all the room you need by removing the rear of the drive shaft and exhaust bellows. This will require a second special tool to expand the exhaust bellows on reassembly, and a new retaining ring for the DS bellows.

Thanks for all this. I will see if I can get the serial number off the unit. The label is VERY faded. However there are trim tabs and I think you are right in me needing that special tool.

It's always something it seems. I am on the fence about messing with this since the bellows is all done up nicely since they were replaced recently (before I owned the boat). I know I will be kicking myself though if I put this in the water and she leaks...

Is there enough room for me to pull that pipe forward and put a new seal on it? I am assuming not...

Chris

 

[harringtondav]

Is there enough room for me to pull that pipe forward and put a new seal on it? I am assuming not...

Chris

Maybe. See the pic. This may not represent your set up. Once the clamp plate is removed a new seal should slip over the water tube. But you can't help but wonder why this wasn't done rather than the white goo under the clamp plate. Plus your tube is looking old and beat up. So it's worth a try, but be careful with that old tube. They like to break if pushed around too much.

 

[Biggyniner]

Maybe. See the pic. This may not represent your set up. Once the clamp plate is removed a new seal should slip over the water tube. But you can't help but wonder why this wasn't done rather than the white goo under the clamp plate. Plus your tube is looking old and beat up. So it's worth a try, but be careful with that old tube. They like to break if pushed around too much.

Yea good point, maybe someone being super cheap or they didn't have the room with the engine still in it... either way I guess worse case scenario (assuming I don't break the pipe) is I just clean up the goop and fill it with my own goop lol... sigh.. As for the other side of the pipe, the exhaust and drive line bellows need to be removed to get access?

Also on a side note, this is my pet peeve with projects... They are a hole and you just start tunneling and finding more things.. lol

Chris

 

[Biggyniner]

Ok serial is 0f052487

 

[scoflaw]

Goop on the outside edge isn't going to work well. Carefully remove the clamp plate to see what's going on. Shake it but don't break it.

 

[Biggyniner]

Goop on the outside edge isn't going to work well. Carefully remove the clamp plate to see what's going on. Shake it but don't break it.

"Shake it but don't break it" My life motto right there... :lol:

 

[harringtondav]

Ok serial is 0f052487

Your drive appears to be a 1991-1995 Merc Alpha II. The seal/bushing is p/n 23-816599 1. Inexpensive. Can't find it here at iBoats. You can Google it or https://www.mercruiserparts.com/8165991-bushing. Since your looking right at it, you can remove the clamp plate and replace it. Goop it up with a little Glycol antifreeze or vaping juice so it slips over the bead on the tube without too much of a fight. It'll be an inexpensive try.

Don't despair over other issues. You seem to know your way around mechanics tools. Go to Boatinfo.com to find your manuals.

 

[rickasbury]

Not a mechanic by any stretch but that kicking afterward is really going to hurt...you have the motor out, outdrive off and you've never had it in the water...youve almost spent more time thinking about it here then it would have taken to fix it...your talking nothing for parts and if you find something else, well, it's a boat!

 

[Biggyniner]

Your drive appears to be a 1991-1995 Merc Alpha II. The seal/bushing is p/n 23-816599 1. Inexpensive. Can't find it here at iBoats. You can Google it or https://www.mercruiserparts.com/8165991-bushing. Since your looking right at it, you can remove the clamp plate and replace it. Goop it up with a little Glycol antifreeze or vaping juice so it slips over the bead on the tube without too much of a fight. It'll be an inexpensive try.

Don't despair over other issues. You seem to know your way around mechanics tools. Go to Boatinfo.com to find your manuals.

For sure, I ordered the bushing and the tube just in case... Does that bushing fit in the middle of the hole in the plate? The bushing appears to have a taper to each side...

 

[harringtondav]

For sure, I ordered the bushing and the tube just in case... Does that bushing fit in the middle of the hole in the plate? The bushing appears to have a taper to each side...

The bushing fits over the tube from the inside, under the clamp plate. It seals the hole in the transom plate with it's taper, and compression from the clamp plate. Not sure the reason for the double taper. Likely assembly mistake proofing, or to insure it centers up under the clamp plate hole.

 

[Bt Doctur]

When assembled properly items 16,17,18,19 will not leak

 

[Biggyniner]

When assembled properly items 16,17,18,19 will not leak

Sounds easy enough :laugh: