Travel Trailer Repair Forums

Knightgang

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Oct 6, 2003
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I know that there are alot of people on this board that have other interests along with boating. Mine happens to be Camping with the family in our Travel Trailer.

However, we had a gallon of water crack when frozen 2 winters ago and it has since began rotting (or softening) the floor under the vinyl. I was wondering if anyone here has had a similar situation and might advise the best fix, and or see if anyone is a member of any RV forums that have project sections for things like this just as iboats has for our marine projects...

Thanks
 

JeepinGunGuy

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Jun 4, 2009
Messages
82
Re: Travel Trailer Repair Forums

I had to replace the floor in my old camper a few years ago and it is a PIA. The floor is set first then they put the walls up. If you just have a small section to repair I would cut out the bad spot then trim it out so the patch piece is supported on all four sides screw it in place then recover it with vinyl. Look into a good stud finder to help you locate the supports and any live wires under the floor.
 

Splat

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Jul 20, 2008
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1,366
Re: Travel Trailer Repair Forums

Talk about bad timing......

I just replaced a section in mine a few weeks ago, and just last night went through my blackberry and deleted all the pics I had of it. I figured I'll never need these. I'll see if they are by some chance in my recycling bin on the home computer.

I had a bump out tht leaked over the winter, and all year the floor in front of it was getting soft until finally my foot went through.

I was lucky, the area to be replaced was under the capeting so it was just a matter of pulling up the carpeting, and cutting out the linolium under that. From there I toojk my circular saw and set my depth at about 1/2 inch and began to cut. This way I was only cutting through the underlayment and not the supports nderneith.

You'll want to make sure you cut out all the wood that is effected, and make the hole you cut as square as possiable. From there I reached into the hole and removed as much insulation as possiable as mine was still damp. From there I aimed a fan in the hole for a few days to ensure all the moisture was out.

Next was on to straddling the damaged floor joists with new 2x3's. I simply screwed these on either side of the damaged ones with some deck screws. The new joists should extend atleast 12-16 inches on either side of the area that is dameged. This is to help take the loaad effectively.

Now the tricky part and I can't really describe it. I"ll post a diagram later if I can't find the pics. All of the area where the new subfloor will meet the old subfloor needs to be framed out between joists. If not when you step in that area the board will flex and you will feel it under your weight. Its not hard to do, but you may need to enlarge your hole to be able to reach additional joists. All edges of the old and new subfloor need to be dupported underneith.

Now its just a matter of closing the hole. Cut new 5/8 or 19/32 plywood(in my case) to match the hole. Some trimming may be needed here to make it fit. And just screw into place.
***side note, depending on the size of your hole home depot sell panels of plywood precut that would be cheaper that purchasing a 4x8 sheet. Also if those precut panels are too small, measure your hole and home depot can cut the full sheet down to size for you. Some trimming may still be necessarydepending on hw ow square your hole really is.

From here you just need to re secure your overlayment. For mine it happened to be carpet, so it was just as easy as laying the carpet back down, pulling taught and stapeling the edge with a pneumatic crown stapler.

If you have linolium hopefully you cut it on a "grout line" as it'll be easier to hide the seam. You'll need to lay down some adheasive both under the piece your placing back AND the edges of the piece still on the floor to prevent peeling. I would try something like a heavy duty contact cement. Regular floor adheasive may raise that area leaving it more noticable. After glued, place some news paper over it and set some heave books onit to hold down. The nes paper will protect your wifes cookbooks if any adhesive seeps out of the seam.

I don't think I left anything out. I'll try to post those pics when I get home if I still have them.

Its not a hard job. I replaced mine in about 2 hours, that's with a case of beer, the race on in the backround and my camper neighbors BSing with me. O yea I did mine at my campground, that's how easy it is.

Let me know if you have any other questions.
Bill
 

Knightgang

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Oct 6, 2003
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1,428
Re: Travel Trailer Repair Forums

Thanks for the feedback guys. Bill, I assumed the repair would be pretty much just as you described. The biggest issue I have is that my soft stop is just inside the door, at the edge and it runs up underneath the neighboring kitchen cabinet. It is on the linolium section and my linolium looks like hard wood floor. I might have to replace a section of the linolium right at the entrance between the cabinet and the wall, could look like an entrance floor. Might do it with Parke flooring just right there at the entrance.

I just hope that I can get the edge of the flooring back in on top of the frame edge and under the edge of the outer wall with no problems and no gaps for support and structure.
 
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