BAYLINER185
Chief Petty Officer
- Joined
- Jul 30, 2007
- Messages
- 474
My trim gauge on my 2755 CIERA cruser is not completly working right.
Its got power and the back light goes on when in start posiiton.
when off the needle goes to full up position like its supposed to. when you trim the drive down the needle starts to go to the down position. The gauge is a left to right configuraton gauge ( like a gas gauge ) NoT up and down like on my new 07 185. So when the drive is tilted down the gauge should rock to the left, when up or ignition switced off the gauge rocks back to the right.
It looks like it starts to rock to the left when trimming down. BUT is doesent go past the full UP positon with the drive at max TRIM UP position ( NOT TRAILER )
I pulled out the gauge to check out and when you reverse polarity between the ground and "S" connections the gauge shoots all the way to the left so I know the gauge does move freely and is not broken. I have to think its the senders not working properly. I had broken senders on my old 19 footer over 10 years ago but I cant remember how the senders are wired.
If I remember correctly one sender is connected to the other in series right? I dont remember.
I know there are only two wires? that go back to the dash board but thats not what I see at the gauge. I have the obviouse GROUND wire thats actually taped into the ground on AUX 12 volt outlet ( cig lighter ) and the obvious +12 volt thats tapped from the light bulb power on the gas gauge. ( it seems to me the trim gauge was added as its not in the main gauge cluster but it could be factory but I dont think it was?
I have 3 wires:
I have 12 volt +
GROUND
and an extra wire wich HAS to be the sender signal
The gauge has:
L = Light
I = +12 volt?
S = Sender
G = Ground
I have the 12v+ and L connected to each other for obvious reasons
( light goes on when key is turned on and power is fed to gauge ) in case its not obvious
Ground is grounded with AUX ground
S must be sender lead and is my 3rd wire
I need to pull the sender(s) and see whats what as they may be shot to hell as the ones on my boat ten years ago basicly crumbled in my hands when I removed them from the drive. If thats the case then they get replaced lol of course.
I also KNOW that they may need to be calibrated if removed. This Im hoping is the problem. Now that I think of it, isnt one sener for UP and the other for DOWN...Yea that seems familure for some reason.
I need a wireing diagram if any one ( DON S) has one
or at least some one to confirm that one of the wires connects to the other sender.
Then what happens? Your left with two wires. does one get +12 volts and the other is the gauge signal feed. I cant remeber for SH&*
Help would be good! ALSO I was able to use the existing wires when I did the new senders 10 years ago as I couldnt figure out how they go through the transome. I was able to take the new senders apart and dissconnect the pig tails that come on the senders and do the same with the bad senders. Then just connect the leads to the new senders and wa la the job was done. Calibrate the units and that was that. Id like to use the new leads if I can but how do you run them through the transome without creating a leak?
Any info from this board would be GRRRRRRRRREAT!!!!!!
I know I will figure it out.
OH YEA DUH
ITS A MERCRUSER BRAVO ONE with a 7.4 ( 454 ) motor
Its got power and the back light goes on when in start posiiton.
when off the needle goes to full up position like its supposed to. when you trim the drive down the needle starts to go to the down position. The gauge is a left to right configuraton gauge ( like a gas gauge ) NoT up and down like on my new 07 185. So when the drive is tilted down the gauge should rock to the left, when up or ignition switced off the gauge rocks back to the right.
It looks like it starts to rock to the left when trimming down. BUT is doesent go past the full UP positon with the drive at max TRIM UP position ( NOT TRAILER )
I pulled out the gauge to check out and when you reverse polarity between the ground and "S" connections the gauge shoots all the way to the left so I know the gauge does move freely and is not broken. I have to think its the senders not working properly. I had broken senders on my old 19 footer over 10 years ago but I cant remember how the senders are wired.
If I remember correctly one sender is connected to the other in series right? I dont remember.
I know there are only two wires? that go back to the dash board but thats not what I see at the gauge. I have the obviouse GROUND wire thats actually taped into the ground on AUX 12 volt outlet ( cig lighter ) and the obvious +12 volt thats tapped from the light bulb power on the gas gauge. ( it seems to me the trim gauge was added as its not in the main gauge cluster but it could be factory but I dont think it was?
I have 3 wires:
I have 12 volt +
GROUND
and an extra wire wich HAS to be the sender signal
The gauge has:
L = Light
I = +12 volt?
S = Sender
G = Ground
I have the 12v+ and L connected to each other for obvious reasons
( light goes on when key is turned on and power is fed to gauge ) in case its not obvious
Ground is grounded with AUX ground
S must be sender lead and is my 3rd wire
I need to pull the sender(s) and see whats what as they may be shot to hell as the ones on my boat ten years ago basicly crumbled in my hands when I removed them from the drive. If thats the case then they get replaced lol of course.
I also KNOW that they may need to be calibrated if removed. This Im hoping is the problem. Now that I think of it, isnt one sener for UP and the other for DOWN...Yea that seems familure for some reason.
I need a wireing diagram if any one ( DON S) has one
Then what happens? Your left with two wires. does one get +12 volts and the other is the gauge signal feed. I cant remeber for SH&*
Help would be good! ALSO I was able to use the existing wires when I did the new senders 10 years ago as I couldnt figure out how they go through the transome. I was able to take the new senders apart and dissconnect the pig tails that come on the senders and do the same with the bad senders. Then just connect the leads to the new senders and wa la the job was done. Calibrate the units and that was that. Id like to use the new leads if I can but how do you run them through the transome without creating a leak?
Any info from this board would be GRRRRRRRRREAT!!!!!!
I know I will figure it out.
OH YEA DUH
ITS A MERCRUSER BRAVO ONE with a 7.4 ( 454 ) motor