Trim rams anodes almost gone. How much longer in salt water?

[diver94]

How to Properly Connect the the Hanging Zinc Anode (The Grouper Zinc)

Hello, BLUF: 1-Is it Ok to clip the cable to the battery -(ground) or do I really need to clip it to the bolt on outdrive? 2-Should I place the Grouper Zinc in between the outdrives or to the side? I have a 2003 Regal Commodore with twin Mercruisers Bravo III. I pulled the boat out a couple of weeks ago due to a leak. I realized that my outdrives zinc anodes were already corroded (after just 10 days in the water). My mechanic told me that the marina has problems with stray current electrolysis and advice me to buy the Grouper (over board Zinc to help protect the outdrives. Here is my question: The manufacturer says that I have to connect the clip to the bolt on outdrive. However, thats very difficult with my boat layout. I do have easy access to my batteries and I could connect a cable from the battery ground thru a compartemmet and then clip the cable to it. Also, with the twin outdrives, do I need to place the Grouper in-between the outdrives, or just to the side of the boat (port or starboard). Does the location make a difference? Thanks!

 

[alldodge]

Your saying zinc but hopefully you mean Aluminum. Your trying to make the zinc look more attractive then the drive. That said if you have a good connection connecting to the battery will change little.

What you should do is find out if your Mercathode is working, and if it is working, does it produce sufficient voltage. Make sure your ground wires are all in place and have good connections. Was having the same issue and it took a while but found out the small thin cathode wire on the drive broke

http://www.boatfix.com/merc/Techbk/97/97hs7.pdf

 

[Bt Doctur]

If its a marina electrical issue calLyour town and report it before somebody dies
The trim rams are bonded to the steering ring, the gimbal housing is bonded to the steering ring, the steering ring is bonded thru the steering arm to the transom plate and the transom plate is bonded to the engine block.
Make sure there all there

 

[diver94]

Your saying zinc but hopefully you mean Aluminum. Your trying to make the zinc look more attractive then the drive. That said if you have a good connection connecting to the battery will change little.

What you should do is find out if your Mercathode is working, and if it is working, does it produce sufficient voltage. Make sure your ground wires are all in place and have good connections. Was having the same issue and it took a while but found out the small thin cathode wire on the drive broke

http://www.boatfix.com/merc/Techbk/97/97hs7.pdf

Thanks AllDodge!
Yes..its aluminum. But my boat is in the water and I cannot test the Mercathode now.
In the meantime. Is it Ok to connect the clip to the battery ground and put the fish in the water between the drives?

 

[diver94]

If its a marina electrical issue calLyour town and report it before somebody dies
The trim rams are bonded to the steering ring, the gimbal housing is bonded to the steering ring, the steering ring is bonded thru the steering arm to the transom plate and the transom plate is bonded to the engine block.
Make sure there all there

Bt Doctur..Thanks!!
I don't think its a safety hazzard. Just that we have some old boats (people living there).

Will it help to connect the zinc clip to the battery and drop the Grouper in between the drives?

 

[Bt Doctur]

Electrolsys is caused by electricity in the water. You can give it or you can receive it. Either way it can kill you or you pet should they fall overboard.
In most cases its caused by a improper battery charger or incorrect bonding.Locally a girl died while swimming and touched the metal upright of a boat lift..
Another case at a dock and a boat hooked to shore power a dog, a father and his daughter all died
As far as connecting a ZINC to control the corrosion factor, its connected to the neg battery cable. Being less Nobel than Al ,it will give up before Aluminum
but that neg cable that is connected to the engine block must be connected to the outdrive for it to work

 

[Bt Doctur]

http://6abc.com/news/teens-death-prompts-warnings-of-electric-shock-drowning/2114568/

 

[Bt Doctur]

http://nj1015.com/electric-shock-drowning-killed-nj-11-year-old-and-its-100-avoidable-group-says/

 

[diver94]

Electrolsys is caused by electricity in the water. You can give it or you can receive it. Either way it can kill you or you pet should they fall overboard.
In most cases its caused by a improper battery charger or incorrect bonding.Locally a girl died while swimming and touched the metal upright of a boat lift..
Another case at a dock and a boat hooked to shore power a dog, a father and his daughter all died
As far as connecting a ZINC to control the corrosion factor, its connected to the neg battery cable. Being less Nobel than Al ,it will give up before Aluminum
but that neg cable that is connected to the engine block must be connected to the outdrive for it to work

Wow! Im sorry to hear that!
OK. I will connect it to the battery neg! Thanks!!

 

[alldodge]

Its easy to test, just need a digital voltmeter and the Merc test probe 91-76675A1
The probe is dropped in next to the drive and attached to the pos meter lead, the neg goes to the battery. Test procedure is in the link in my previous post. I have one of them and it works pretty well

http://www.ebay.ie/itm/162104414768

 

[GA_Boater]

If you have a bonding issue meaning both outdrives are not electrically connected, using the battery for grounding isn't the right thing to do. It ends up being the same as using the ball and coupler to provide grounds for trailer lights, it doesn't work.

Until you test the Mercathode system, do this - Add a wire between both outdrives and route the wire to a more accessible place. EDIT - The battery post is a good spot. When docked, clip onto the wire/battery post and heave the grouper over the stern between the outdrives. You only need to crawl under there one time to do this.

Not a safety hazard? A recent post in this forum - WARNING !! SWIMMING IN MARINAS and this happens every year. Yes, report this dangerous issue because you may fall overboard launching or retrieving your zinc fish. Then it's too late.

 

[alldodge]

While shock/electrocution hazard is very real, right now I think its going a bit over board for what's being seen. In most cases the boat which gets eaten up has a good grounding system. The object that is causing the trouble for the good boat is the boat next door without a good grounding system (older and no galvanic isolator)

 

[diver94]

If you have a bonding issue meaning both outdrives are not electrically connected, using the battery for grounding isn't the right thing to do. It ends up being the same as using the ball and coupler to provide grounds for trailer lights, it doesn't work.

Until you test the Mercathode system, do this - Add a wire between both outdrives and route the wire to a more accessible place. EDIT - The battery post is a good spot. When docked, clip onto the wire/battery post and heave the grouper over the stern between the outdrives. You only need to crawl under there one time to do this.

Not a safety hazard? A recent post in this forum - WARNING !! SWIMMING IN MARINAS[/URL] and this happens every year. Yes, report this dangerous issue because you may fall overboard launching or retrieving your zinc fish. Then it's too late.

Good advice on connecting the cable to both outdrives. THANKS!
I dont really see a bid electrical hazard at the marina. ALL Electrical outlets have new breakers. And the wiring looks well built and safe.

Tks again!

 

[diver94]

Hello,
I have a 2003 30' Regal w Twin Bravo 3s in Salt water (NYC). MY anodes are almost gone! I put the hanging anode fish they sold me at the marina, However, I noticed that the Hanging Anode (fish) s not helping muchl. My anodes (trim ram anodes are the worst) are down to almost 25%!!I think the problem is that the Fish is made of Zinc and my Bravo 3 outdrives have All aluminum anodes. I read that you are not supposed to mix them. BTW, I did connect a good wire to both outdrives and then to the hanging anode.

Here are my questions:
1-Should I buy the Hang Tuff Aluminum hanging anodes and replace the Zinc/fish? Is it true that you should not mix anode types?

2-Im just trying to enjoy the last few weeks of summer in NYC. I was thinking of pulling the boat out of the water by 25 Sept...In your opinion, will the outdrives survive a few more weeks? As off last weekend, there's no damage on SS propellers or outdrive yet (I checked). Again, the trim ram anodes are almost gone, the rest are not too bad.
Thanks!

 

[diver94]

Hello,
I have a 2003 30' Regal w Twin Bravo 3s in Salt water (NYC). MY anodes are almost gone! I put the hanging anode fish they sold me at the marina, However, I noticed that the Hanging Anode (fish) s not helping muchl. My anodes (trim ram anodes are the worst) are down to almost 25%!!I think the problem is that the Fish is made of Zinc and my Bravo 3 outdrives have All aluminum anodes. I read that you are not supposed to mix them. BTW, I did connect a good wire to both outdrives and then to the hanging anode.

Here are my questions:
1-Should I buy the Hang Tuff Aluminum hanging anodes and replace the Zinc/fish? Is it true that you should not mix anode types?

2-Im just trying to enjoy the last few weeks of summer in NYC. I was thinking of pulling the boat out of the water by 25 Sept...In your opinion, will the outdrives survive a few more weeks? As off last weekend, there's no damage on SS propellers or outdrive yet (I checked). Again, the trim ram anodes are almost gone, the rest are not too bad.
Thanks!

 

[Bt Doctur]

zinc in salt water, both engines, transoms, and ALL underwater fittings bonded together the aluminum tubes are bonded by the SS wires . try unplugging the shore power when not attended.or atleast turn off the battery charger. It could be causing the electrolyses or your neighbors boat(s) could be causing it

 

[diver94]

zinc in salt water, both engines, transoms, and ALL underwater fittings bonded together the aluminum tubes are bonded by the SS wires . try unplugging the shore power when not attended.or atleast turn off the battery charger. It could be causing the electrolyses or your neighbors boat(s) could be causing it

Got it. Yes, ive been leaving the shore power and battery charger on. I will unplug immediately!
THANKS!

 

[Bt Doctur]

Just check to see that the fridge dosent draw from a bilge pump batteryt
another area is the trim sender wiring. It has 12volts constant when the key is on. If the wiring is going bad and "leaking" the electricity it can cause corrosion too.
A simple fix is to install 2 diodes

 

[diver94]

The fridge does draw power from battery, but the fridge switch (panel box) is off. My mistake; I left the keys on the ignition. So, even if they keys are in the off position ...they could send power to the trim senders?
If thats ghe case, I will come again after work and remove them keys from the switch.
BTW, the shore power cable was partially in the water. Anyways, I unplugged/removed it for now.
Thanks!!

 

[tpenfield]

IMO anything less than 50% remaining is no good.

Sounds like you would need a haul-out in order to replace the anodes.

If you are handy, you could probably replace them while the boat is in the water.

Do you have the prop anodes?

The lack of anode protection will tend to take out the bearing carriers ($400 part plus labor ), so you want to be sure to maintain good anodes.