Triton bay flight rod holder feedback.

[BWalt302]

I added two t bars to the gunwale in my boat. Mounted using same type of screws the factory ladder/cleats were all using.

Drilled a few pilot holes to match the screw “body” but smaller than the threads so that they would bite. Removed and sealed with 4200. Used #14 1.5” coarse screws for the base plate for quick detach. The area here is around 1.75” thick but consider the height of the plate probably each screw around 1” into the glass.

Does anyone know if this gunwale is solid glass or cored?

I know some people drill holes larger and fill with epoxy and re drill for screws, but I figured since the factory didn’t bother and it’s way above the water line it should be fine.

Would you have done it differently or am I good to go?

PS don’t judge my fishing poles lol. Was raining and I left my good ones inside

Thanks!

 

[Scott Danforth]

in most factory boats where cleats and deck hardware get mounted, there is either an aluminum plate or a different laminate schedule in the area for screws.

however in the back there, it looks like youre screwed into the transom

only chopper gun boats would be thick glass. most boats are 3/16" - 1/4" glass outer surface

 

[BWalt302]

in most factory boats where cleats and deck hardware get mounted, there is either an aluminum plate or a different laminate schedule in the area for screws.

however in the back there, it looks like youre screwed into the transom

only chopper gun boats would be thick glass. most boats are 3/16" - 1/4" glass outer surface

Is that a bad thing? The thickness and build look the same all the way around the gunwale… I also noticed “upgraded” models of my same boat some come with other things like rails screwed into the same area in different spots. Thanks for the feedback!