Trolling Motor Outlet and Plug

[jd438]

I have a problem with my trolling motor, and I am hoping it is the plug or outlet. It was previously working. I started checking the voltage at the plug, and have 27 v, but I think it is in the wrong location. It does not match the plug wiring. Can the outlet go bad I attached a couple pics.


Any thoughts?

 

[glenn property of pam]

Re: Trolling Motor Outlet and Plug

show us a picture of the back of the trolling plug so we can see the jumper and also tell us what voltage the trolling motor is.

 

[NYBo]

Re: Trolling Motor Outlet and Plug

The wiring wouldn't magically jump from one terminal to the other, so I think Glenn is on the right track: There had to be a jumper on either the plug or the outlet terminals or it never would have worked. The most straightforward repair is to just wire both to corresponding terminals and eliminate any jumpers.

 

[Silvertip]

Re: Trolling Motor Outlet and Plug

The fact that this boat has a four terminal receptacle says the 24 volt system is wired with a pair of conductors from each battery rather than having the 24 volt connection via a jumper at the batteries and just two wires going up front. My thoughts are this motor, even if it is a 24 volt unit, never ran on 24 volts but was seeing only 12 volts. One needs to know what the wiring is on the receptacle (two, three, or four wires) and what the plug wiring is. The solution, remove the panel and look. Separate the shell from the plug and see which terminals the troller wires connect to and whether there is a jumper on the plug.

 

[jd438]

Re: Trolling Motor Outlet and Plug

The trolling motor is 24v an Minnkota Power drive. It has two wires. The plug has a jumper shown on the back between a blank plug and 12v plug. I have had this working for 3 years without issue. The back of the outlet has a set of wires for each battery. Each positive and negative have their own screw.

 

[Silvertip]

Re: Trolling Motor Outlet and Plug

As was mentioned, circuits don't jump terminals by themselves so something has changed. If the batteries are indeed wired separately (4 wires - two from each battery to the receptacle, then you need to verify that those connections are intact. You must also check the plug to ensure the jumper and the wiring is on the proper terminals. And I suspect something is not right with the receptacle as you cannot measure 24 volts across two terminals you show. Why? Because the 24 volt series connection is made by the jumper in thePLUG. The receptacle has the equivalent of two totally independent 12 volt circuits. Only after the plug is inserted would you measure 24 volts on the two TROLLING MOTOR wires.

 

[glenn property of pam]

Re: Trolling Motor Outlet and Plug

if you are measuring 24v at the plug terminals and your trolling motor is not using the two terminals you found 24v on then you either have hooked up a battery incorrectly or you have not been getting 24v to the trolling motor. First check the batteries there should be 4 cables. One to positive and negative on battery one then One to positive and negative on battery two. If you have any other wires on the batteries then please tell us. read the voltage between the terminals at the receptical if any combination reads 24v with out the plug then stop and post results.
The plug should have a jumper which may be a solid piece built in to the plug or a wire. No trolling motor connection should go to the same terminals as the jumper. Measure voltage at the 2 terminals that are not connected and you should get 24vdc. post you voltage readings as that will point to the problem.

 

[fishrdan]

Re: Trolling Motor Outlet and Plug

I started checking the voltage at the plug, and have 27 v

That's correct, you should measure 24V (27v) at the plug, when it's plugged in.

I have a problem with my trolling motor, and I am hoping it is the plug or outlet. It was previously working.

Soooo, what's the problem with the trolling motor: won't run, intermittent, no power, etc. etc....?

Have you checked to make sure all the wires are clean and tight at the batteries, receptacle and plug,,, with no corrosion?

Also, have you checked the voltage at the plug when the trolling motor is; in the water, turned on, and pulling a load? The voltage shouldn't drop much, but if could drop significantly if you have a bad battery or bad wire connection somewhere.

 

[jd438]

Re: Trolling Motor Outlet and Plug

I should have included more details. The trolling motor does not turn on at all, and the remote acts like the trolling motor isn't even plugged in. The tester on the trolling motor does not light up. I am certain there are 4 wires on the back as I pulled it out and tested it before posting. All are securly fastened as well as terminals at the batteries. The leads come from each side of the boat as the batteries are stored in counsels. I am only able to get a reading with only the top and bottom female plug terminals.
On the actual plug on the trolling motor I get 27v on two of the terminals when plugged in becuase of the jumper in the male plug. The wired connection show no voltage. I am now remember a couple months back where I was using the trolling motor on high and it would beep like it lost power. It would power back up if I wiggled the plug. Is it possible that the outlet has gone bad after 15 years of use?

 

[glenn property of pam]

Re: Trolling Motor Outlet and Plug

ok now we are making more sense. when testing the receptical you get a reading between top and bottom (12vdc). If you was to test side to side you should also get a reading of (12vdc). Im trying to think of a easy way to explain that the 2 batteries will not reference each other as they are not connected.
It would be possible to get a false reading on a digital volt meter. 27v at nearly 0amps maybe caused by water getting in to the receptacle if a cover was not installed while the trolling motor is unplugged. Replace the plug with the same type of plug and receptacle as your battery set up will not allow a different type as they are stored in pods on either side of the boat.

 

[Silvertip]

Re: Trolling Motor Outlet and Plug

why not remove the panel and and look at the back side of the receptacle. yes 15 years can damage it. But the fact remains you cannot measure 24 volts at two pins on that receptacle so something is wrong with it or the wiring.

 

[fishrdan]

Re: Trolling Motor Outlet and Plug

Agree, that receptacle could have gone bad, but I'd check it carefully before replacing it as the Marinco 12/24 receptacles are $50... That receptacle has 2 independent 12V circuits, so you should measure 12V across 1 pair of holes, and 12V across the other set of holes. I'm not sure of the pin arrangement though...

FWIW, be very cautious if buying a Bass Pro branded 12/24 4-prong outlet as I found they are not the same as Marinco 12/24 products. They may look very close, but a BPS 4 prong plug won't fit into a 12-24 "Marinco" receptacle. They are pinned out slightly different, different pin arrangement. Odd thing is, the BPS 12/24 plugs and receptacles are made by Marinco! (I was able to make a BPS plug fit into Marinco receptacle, with a little massaging of my dremel tool and a rotatary file ) The BPS parts are around 1/2 the cost of true Marinco, but I'm sure the quality is 50% also, spec'ed out lower quality...

 

[jd438]

Re: Trolling Motor Outlet and Plug

I figured it out. Its not the outlet. The plug had a loose screw in on the jumper basically breaking the connection for the jumper. Thanks everyone.

 

[glenn property of pam]

Re: Trolling Motor Outlet and Plug

I figured it out. Its not the outlet. The plug had a loose screw in on the jumper basically breaking the connection for the jumper. Thanks everyone.

that's what we mean by a false reading on a dmv. In the future or for any one else reading this true voltage is read under a load. when the dvm is connected try to start the motor and if the voltage suddenly drops to zero you know theres a problem with a connection.