Was crossing a small lake under full trolling motor power (12 volt Motor Guide W55) in my 18' War Eagle when the trolling motor suddenly stopped and then restarted. Thinking the trolling motor plug not fully seated I started forward when #2 son on the rear casting seat called fire in the boat. Sure enough, there was an awful smell of burning something and smoke pouring from the battery area, which, you guessed it, is immediately adjacent to the fuel tank. Most fortunately, disaster was averted by unplugging the trolling motor and disconnecting first the negative trolling motor cable and then the positive. It could have been much worse. When we got the boat off the water, I cut the trolling motor fuse holder out and found it was beyond melted with holder and fuse crystalized. Even more curious, I purchased the boat new about 6 years ago and have never had any issue with the boat. So, I made it my business to figure out what happened and how to prevent a similar problem in the future. Below is what I have learned. Hope it helps prevent a problem for someone. And by the way, I do not fault the manufacturer or the dealer; it's my boat and I am the final authority for its operation.
First, it is not uncommon for trolling motors to be wired with 10 gauge wire. 10 AWG is marginal for a 24 volt motor, 8 AWG would be better, and 6 AWG is best and is what is recommended by Motor Guide. So, its new 6 gauge wire for our boat with a 50 amp breaker.
Secondly, there is a large and confusing variety of DC fuses, fuse holders, and breakers. The trick is to purchase such things from a source who can explain to you why it is suitable for marine use. If the supplier cannot explain to you why ignition protection is important, or claims that an automotive fuse or holder will work, or is not familiar with ABYC best practices simply walk away. I explained what had happened to me to three local boat dealers and only one recommended the correct solution. Scary.
Finally, do take a look at your boat's wiring. I'm finding things that work and have worked well for years, but they are not correct. There are, thankfully, no additional wire gauge issues. What I have found and am in process of correcting is a surprising number of connections that are not what they should be in terms of materials and technique. The good news is even those of us mechanically challenged can make solid and durable connections for 10 gauge or smaller wiring with a few special purpose hand tools and the appropriately sized connectors for marine use.
Hope this helps.
First, it is not uncommon for trolling motors to be wired with 10 gauge wire. 10 AWG is marginal for a 24 volt motor, 8 AWG would be better, and 6 AWG is best and is what is recommended by Motor Guide. So, its new 6 gauge wire for our boat with a 50 amp breaker.
Secondly, there is a large and confusing variety of DC fuses, fuse holders, and breakers. The trick is to purchase such things from a source who can explain to you why it is suitable for marine use. If the supplier cannot explain to you why ignition protection is important, or claims that an automotive fuse or holder will work, or is not familiar with ABYC best practices simply walk away. I explained what had happened to me to three local boat dealers and only one recommended the correct solution. Scary.
Finally, do take a look at your boat's wiring. I'm finding things that work and have worked well for years, but they are not correct. There are, thankfully, no additional wire gauge issues. What I have found and am in process of correcting is a surprising number of connections that are not what they should be in terms of materials and technique. The good news is even those of us mechanically challenged can make solid and durable connections for 10 gauge or smaller wiring with a few special purpose hand tools and the appropriately sized connectors for marine use.
Hope this helps.
