Two issues 88 OMC 4.3ltr V6 cable adj. and antisiphon valve. Please

[Donald Terrell]

If your are reading this Thanks. I found my antisiphon valve, it was going into a 90 degree fitting on top of the tank. I removed it and inspected it, looks super clean, blew into it from the tank end and it took a moderate amount of pressure to open, seemed okay and wouldn't allow gas to flow backwards at all. I removed the 90 deg fitting wondering if the pickup tube would be attached, it wasn't. I had done a fuel volume test on the muffs, in the driveway, passed good. I put the antisiphone valve and fitting back on, with sealant of course and closed the fuel tank as being a problem. My boat used to run really good, and it just over a few outings began to perform poorly. I done a compression test, passed with flying colors and I am going to do a proper and complete tune up when I figure out exactly what I need. I have also been reading the post about the elusive OMC shift cable adj. When I first purchased my boat, really the second owner, great people, the boat would always make one thud like sound as you started in forward. As long as I throttled up kinda quickly, I would hear no other noises. The prior owners said it had always done that.I asked a marina which was servicing the boat, that's when I learned about the replacement shift cable, which I had. The service tech told me he could tighten it up a little and for a season it didn't make the noisebut it did eventually come back. I plan to remove the drive, build the holder with the help of some great post, buy the kit with gaskets,gimball bearing and belows. I was just outside trying to decide where, my wife will kill me when she comes home and the boat is on the car port. While I was checking the antisiphon, I measured the distance of the top of the lower shift cable 7-9/16, that one. Mine was more like 7-3/4 which leads me finally to my second and last question. Is this a result of the marina adjusting the cable tighter for wear of the clutch dog and if I don't replace the gears, which I hadn't planned on will I have to adjust for this when I put it all back together or just set everything like the 7-9/16, angle of bellcrank etc. The shifting has become very difficult, not on the remote end though. Sorry for the long shpill! Apreciate any feedback. Thanks Donwon

 

[Bondo]

Re: Two issues 88 OMC 4.3ltr V6 cable adj. and antisiphon valve. Please

I removed the 90 deg fitting wondering if the pickup tube would be attached, it wasn't.

Well,............ It Should Be...........<br /><br />It's Probably laying in the bottom of the Tank now........<br /><br />I can't help you with the Other Issues,......<br /><br />I Don't Do OMCs...........

 

[boatgrunt]

Re: Two issues 88 OMC 4.3ltr V6 cable adj. and antisiphon valve. Please

DonWon - have you read Stuart's article? Did you read my post from a few month's back? If not, I'll send you the link. Also, do you have the 88 OMC shop manual? If you have all of these things, you might be able to make the adjustment yourself. I tried and ran into some trouble. Let me know how it goes.

 

[Donald Terrell]

Re: Two issues 88 OMC 4.3ltr V6 cable adj. and antisiphon valve. Please

Bondo, On top of my tank is a square access panel held down by phillip screws. It houses the gas guage sending unit, the 90 degree fitting and another fitting which just looks like a plug. I didn't remove this square, just the one 90 deg fitting. It turned out of the square without the tube attached, I was thinking maybe the tube is attached to the square thing. If the pickup tube has fallen down into the tank then it couldn't pull gas, but it does. Maybe I should go all the way and remove everything, possibly even the tank itself to wash out. If anyone has been keeping up with my progress they know I don't do anything in a hurry. My boat seems to idle fine, but when I try to throttle up, in gear on water, it stalls and I have to work the throttle just to keep it running. I have checked the ESA switch and will recheck it. I have rebuilt the carb and installed a new gasket. I replaced a broken thermostat. Compression was very good. With the help of my father and his tools, dwell meter, timing light, I plan on doing a proper tune up.<br />Boatgrunt, Was that your post with the good pictures of the pivot housing showing the end of the shift cable, bellcrank etc. ? I put that topic in my favorites as it gave me a good color look at what mine should look like, I learned allot from that post, someone was talking about using clamps to hold the 7-9/16 adjustment on the upper end of the transom cable. I have read and studied Stuart's article and I think I am ready to change bellows, gimball bearing, shift cable if needed and adjust. When I said in my original post that the measurement was 7-3/4, I was wrong, it is actually correct now at 7-9/16. When on the water, it is very hard to get the shifter out of forward into neutral. I removed the transom cable from the brakett on the engine, pulled on it while turning the prop until I was sure it was in Forward, then it was fairly easy to move out of forward. I am not a auto or boat tech, rather a printing shop owner who performs all of my own repairs and service on my presses for twenty years now. I understand how things work and how to disifer tech manuals. I do have the original OMC service manual p/n 507708 and also a Cylmer manual. Boatgrunt, If that doesn't sound like your post, please send me that link. Thanks!! I know yaw must get tired of helping people who the first thing they do is start a topic without trying to figure it out on their own first. I don't mean to be one of those as it may seem and I am very greatful for any replies. I will try to learn how to add pics to my post. Donwon

 

[boatgrunt]

Re: Two issues 88 OMC 4.3ltr V6 cable adj. and antisiphon valve. Please

Yes - that was my post and pic, but I am in NO way knowledgeable on the adjustment. I am still struggling through the transcom cable adjustment procedure but will definitely help you with any question that I actually can answer. If you have read Stuart's article, have the manual and are a self-teacher, you should be in good shape. If you finish the adjustment successfully, please post a summary of what you did. <br /><br />Thanks

 

[bandsaw48]

Re: Two issues 88 OMC 4.3ltr V6 cable adj. and antisiphon valve. Please

Donwon,<br /><br />Are you sure the ESA is working? If the engine idles above 700-800 rpm and the ESA doesn't work, it can be difficult or even impossible to get out of gear.<br /><br />Greg

 

[boatgrunt]

Re: Two issues 88 OMC 4.3ltr V6 cable adj. and antisiphon valve. Please

I think his problem was getting into gear, not out of gear, but you are right about the ESA if the symptom is getting out of gear.

 

[bandsaw48]

Re: Two issues 88 OMC 4.3ltr V6 cable adj. and antisiphon valve. Please

When on the water, it is very hard to get the shifter out of forward into neutral. I removed the transom cable from the brakett on the engine, pulled on it while turning the prop until I was sure it was in Forward, then it was fairly easy to move out of forward.

When the engine isn't turning, it's very easy to manually shift in and out of gear once the clutch dog and gears are alinged by the initial engagemnet.<br /><br />My two cents, Greg

 

[lakelivin]

Re: Two issues 88 OMC 4.3ltr V6 cable adj. and antisiphon valve. Please

DW- I think this is the post you were refering to.<br /><br /> http://forums.iboats.com/cgi-bin/ubb/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=24;t=015497#000024

 

[Donald Terrell]

Re: Two issues 88 OMC 4.3ltr V6 cable adj. and antisiphon valve. Please

Yes Lakelivin, that is the post I was refering to and I just noticed that you are in NC also. Boatgrunt offered me a great look at what mine looks like after the drive is removed. The last time out, I tested the ESA by slightly bending the swith arm, I know yaw are frowning at this way of testing and there is a connection to pull. The ESA seemed to stumble the engine when in idle, like it should and it made no difference in performance when I disconnected it and tried to throttle up, ofcourse I will test it again properly but I don't believe it is my problem and the other switch just above it(over ride?) is being compressed. I keep thinking of the ignition coil, inspecting it as best as I can without removing I see no swelling or cracks. When my boat is out of gear it idles fine and throttles up okay also, but when I put it in gear it bogs down and I have to work the throttle just to keep it running bad, sounds like a tractor and barely runs not geting close to plane. It is very hard to get out of forward gear when trying to trailer or just stop. I need to get to work on it before I miss another season. I have a local marine dealer that has been able to get parts for me, carb kit and thermo stat. I need a tune up kit, wires, plugs, points,condensor,cap, rotor etc, also the transom service kit with gimbal, bellows etc. I thought about ordering these parts online, however I am now thinking that I should deal with my local marine shop so I will have people to deal with and possibly advice to get and if anything is wrong I wont have to worry about shipping parts back. I am just not sure if I am up to or capable of changing the gimabal bearing as it sounds like I need the removal tool and the alignment tool. I know that I need to sort my problems and why worry about the gimbal if the engine is not running properly, but I did a compression test so I feel sure that it will run good again and the drive hasn't been removed in years, although we only talking about 30 hours of use, I need to get in there to atleast lube the U joint and I suspect bad belows. I was hoping someone would touch on the gas tank issue and antisiphon valve, please reread my post about the pick up tube not coming out of the tank. I had dismissed the antisiphon valve and tank as being part of my problem, however I am now thinking since I have removed panels to gain access maybe I should go ahead and completely remove the tank from the boat to clean and inspect, remember it did pass the fuel pump volume test very well. I sure am Thankfull for all of your input everyone!! Any help is greatly apreciated. Donwon

 

[lakelivin]

Re: Two issues 88 OMC 4.3ltr V6 cable adj. and antisiphon valve. Please

DW,<br /><br />Stuart's article (which lists the five point shift adjustment procedure) should help you get the two ESA related switches in the correct position. I believe trouble shifting out of gear on a Cobra is a classic symptom of either a misadjusted shift system, ESA troubles, or too high idle speed. <br /><br />I'm completely ignorant w.r.t. the gas line issues, but you're right about getting the shifting stuff fixed quickly. My understanding is that forcing the drive out of gear will trash your lower unit (clutch dog & gears?) pretty quickly.<br /><br />What part of NC are you from? I know a very good OMC shop near Lake Gaston. Knowlegdable & pretty reasonably priced. Unfortunately, he's about 1.25 hours from me, so my access to him is limited. But if you're closer, I'll be glad to pass on his name. <br /><br />Good luck!

 

[boatgrunt]

Re: Two issues 88 OMC 4.3ltr V6 cable adj. and antisiphon valve. Please

Actually, if you are experiencing power problems, it might not be related to the gears and shifting linkage. I don't think that the engine bogging down relates to the shifting linkage but instead with something having to do with your fueling. See if you can get one of the experts on this board to comment.

 

[bruceb58]

Re: Two issues 88 OMC 4.3ltr V6 cable adj. and antisiphon valve. Please

It has been awhile since I had my 87 Cobra but I believe there was an updated ESA.<br /><br />Also, there is an upgrade kit for the bellcrank at the drive where the cable connects. I highly reccomend getting this kit if you do any boating in salt water. The space where the bellcrank sits can fill with water and salt deposits can collect there over time. The kit allows you to fill this area with grease from an external zerk fitting. It also helped reduce the effort shifting.<br /><br />I looked at the thread that was linked above. Look for the post by seahorse. He uses the technique that I used very sucessfully. My Cobra always shifted perfectly after I did all the upgrades and properly adjusted the cable.<br /><br />One more thing(sorry...I keep thinking back of all the things I did) the best thing I ever did was buy a high quality helm shifter. The one that came with bye Bayliner had so much slop in it that it made shifting a nightmare.

 

[Donald Terrell]

Re: Two issues 88 OMC 4.3ltr V6 cable adj. and antisiphon valve. Please

Thanks All. Lakelivin I am in Efland, central NC about an hour from Raleigh, between Durham and Greensboro. We have Jordan lake about a 45min drive, don't have the luxury of leaving my boat in the water. I have ordered tune up parts. I have gathered allot of useful info from many people of this forum. I feel sure a proper tune up is needed. I have eliminated the gas tank, antisiphon valve,filters, fuel pump and rebuilt the carb. I never saw any water or debree in the sytem and the carb was really clean, I may not have done the rebuild if it weren't for needing a couple of gaskets from the kit anyhow, but I did and feel good about it. The only problem I had was the with the choke cover, the composite plate which has a slot to turn it by to adjust lean or rich. I removed the three hold downs but it was stuck in place, I chipped some of the slot away with my screwdriver, so I used compressed air and blew it out, caught it before it hit the ground. I should have sanded it or something, cause now it is again stuck and all of the slot is chipped away, but I put it back in the same position and will cross that bridge when need be. If anyone has one, it is a 2brl Rochester. All I have done concering the ignition parts is an inspection. I have never set dwell before or timing, I have watched my Dad do it as a child. He is going to help me and teach me, when we do a proper tune up soon. I did perform a compression test which it passed very well. Thanks to you BOATGRUNT!! for those wonderful pictures and the info from your post. I told my Dad that I was considering doing the transom service at the same time as the tune up, but he said I was crazy to do it before getting it running good again. Yeh, I understand, however it has been 8 years,20 trips and apr. only 60 hrs run time since the outdrive was removed and the Ujoints lubricated. Also water enters the boat somehow as I lose 5 to 10 gallons each time I pull it out the water. The water didn't come in over the side and there are no aparent engine collong leaks. The shifting has become difficult also. That is why I am so eager to do the transom service. Bruceb, welcome to Iboats forum, I have never heard of a recall or update concerning the ESA or the kit for the bellcrank area but that sounds like a good idea. I can't wait to see that area when I remove the outdrive, Boatgrunt posted some real good pics of what I can expect mine to looklike. When I get up and running, I will post the results, thats positive thinking, however I may get stuck and be back asking for help. Thanks Everyone!!